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Setting up suspension

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Feasty
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PostPosted: 07:57 - 14 Oct 2008    Post subject: Setting up suspension Reply with quote

How many of you have fiddled with your rear suspensions after picking up a bike, does it make any difference?

On my SLR I'm getting rather fed up of bouncing all over the seat going over bumps and wondered if adjusting the suspension might improve this - if so, which way would I do it?

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Rowey
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PostPosted: 08:23 - 14 Oct 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

You'd need to adjust the preload. Could be the previous owner has set it up for themselves. On my bike it uses a c-spanner, this twists a collar that effectively shortens or lengthens the spring. Making the suspension stiffer or softer. If I'm going high speed or have my girlfriend on the back, I shorten the spring a notch or two respectively.

If it is really bad, for example, It continually bounces after a bump, and has little to no dampening. It could mean your rear suspension needs a recharge/overhaul.
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Feasty
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PostPosted: 08:34 - 14 Oct 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

So if you shorten it a notch or 2 that makes the spring tighter therefore going over a bump would make you bounce higher, am I right!? Shocked

Or maybe it's the other way around, a longer spring would make the bike bounce more? I'm confused now... Confused

It doesn't continually bounce after the inital bump so I think the dampening is working fine. Thumbs Up
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Previous: Aprilia Habana Retro 50cc (beauty), Yamaha SR125 (fell apart), Honda XR125 (nippy little commuter), Honda SLR650 (Geewhizz), Yamaha Diversion 900S (Smoooooth) written off courtesy of a stupid escaped horse.
(7 year gap), BMW F650 (Relaxing ride). Aprilia Caponord ETV1000 (Big and bold). Yamaha FZS600 (got me in trouble too quick!).
Current: Yamaha TDM 900 (Comfy, light but big, power when needed).
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Rowey
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PostPosted: 09:15 - 14 Oct 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shortening the spring will make it stiffer. So hitting a bump will compress the suspension less. Which is a good idea if you're going high speeds on motorways for instance. Only down side is, it may jar your spine a bit more because the suspension travels less and has less time to dampen the bump. It's generally about comfort. Just tweak it until you like the feel, both over bumps and cornering. This is what I did.
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Wafer_Thin_Ham
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PostPosted: 11:24 - 14 Oct 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Changing the pre-load doesn't make the suspension harder or softer. It simply changes the force required to make it start working. If it's set high then it requires more force to make the suspension start to move than if pre-load is set very low.

The only way you can truely make the suspension harder over it's whole travel is by fitting a different spring. I think...
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G
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Joined: 02 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 15:43 - 14 Oct 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Big_Ham wrote:

The only way you can truely make the suspension harder over it's whole travel is by fitting a different spring. I think...

Correct, I believe Smile.
Changing the damping settings and pro-load can give the impression of it being 'harder', however.
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lllN30lll
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PostPosted: 15:57 - 14 Oct 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

All written out here.

https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=150250&highlight=suspension+explained

Should help you.
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 17:30 - 14 Oct 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rowey wrote:
Shortening the spring will make it stiffer. So hitting a bump will compress the suspension less. Which is a good idea if you're going high speeds on motorways for instance. Only down side is, it may jar your spine a bit more because the suspension travels less and has less time to dampen the bump. It's generally about comfort. Just tweak it until you like the feel, both over bumps and cornering. This is what I did.


Brimming over with wrongability.

Adding preload means that the force taken to *start* compressing the spring is slightly higher, cos it is already compressed more. Adding preload ONLY sets the static sag of the bike and does NOT change the spring rate.

Basically, if the bike is wallowy or bouncy, you need to look at damping NOT preload. You need to set preload for your weight. A good rule of thumb for that is explained in a document I have on my webspace. It also explains how to get a good all round set up for the road.

It is here:

www.marjay.co.uk/setup.pdf

This is not one of those 'performance bikes' 'here are the settings for your bike' jobbies, cos they are next to useless. If standard settings don't work for you, then how likely is it for some magazine hack to get the settings right for you?

This article tells you how to set up your bike FOR YOU, and it explains what preload rebound and compression is. It is my suspension bible.
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