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Fixing a shredded bolt

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jingeroo
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 08 Sep 2008
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PostPosted: 14:33 - 21 Oct 2008    Post subject: Fixing a shredded bolt Reply with quote

I recently noticed that the washers behind the nut holding one of rear shocks was loose, so I tried to tighten it only to find both the nut and bolt are shredded.

Could anyone advise the best way to rethread the bolt (which is welded to the frame) or can a replacement be welded onto the bike at a garage? I have heard of tap and die sets but do normal garages have these?

The bikes a cg125 br-k

I would be grateful of any advice

Thanks
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Cigaro
World Chat Champion



Joined: 28 Mar 2007
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PostPosted: 14:40 - 21 Oct 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Being the master of bodgery, what I would personally do would be hacksaw it off, drill the bolt out, and put another one through of the same size with a washer and a nut on the outside of the frame, then torque it all up very tight.

It's probably not a good idea though, really. Very Happy
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ravingriley
Borekit Bruiser



Joined: 20 Oct 2008
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PostPosted: 15:23 - 21 Oct 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thats sounds a good idea. Plus its hard to find tap and die sets with large thread peices.

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Cigaro
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PostPosted: 15:42 - 21 Oct 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Obviously you need to make sure you get a very strong nut and bolt, and get the spacing the same so you don't mess up the suspension geometry.

To be honest I see no reason for it to fail. IIRC the shock mounts on my cub 90 weren't welded on either side, they were just big bolts with washers to hold them in place.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 17:14 - 21 Oct 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

The nut is only welded to the frame for the conveniance of a) not being able to lose it and b) for being able to tighten it up using only one spanner.

I wouldn't necessarily even take the old nut off, once you have the bolt out, just fit a slightly longer bolt of the same diameter and put a nut on the outside of the knackered one.

Obviously if this makes it stick out so far it risks fouling something, the original captive nut might need to be ground off the frame. There is no real need to weld the new one on though, just nip it up good and tight with two spanners.

Use a mild steel bolt not a stainless one, use one that is the same diameter as the original and has the numbers 8,8 stamped onto the head of the bolt. This indicates it is strong enough to do the job and not some crappy monkey metal thing from B&Q.

For added security you could always use a nylok nut providing it doesn't stick out too far.
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syl
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Joined: 05 Dec 2005
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PostPosted: 17:50 - 21 Oct 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stinkwheel's usually spot on, but now I'm confused. Which one is welded to the frame - the nut or the bolt?
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G
The Voice of Reason



Joined: 02 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 18:00 - 21 Oct 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

ravingriley wrote:
Thats sounds a good idea. Plus its hard to find tap and die sets with large thread peices.

Easy enough to buy indivdual taps and dies in odd sizes.

If it is the bolt that's welded to the frame, could use a die to take the end of the thread down a size so you can use a smaller nut, but then it'd be relatively weaker.
I believe you can get mig welding attachments that let you stick an appropriate stud in to the device, press it onto a piece of flat metal and it'll auto-magically weld it on with minimum fuss.
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BanditsHigh
Worse than a woman



Joined: 21 Mar 2005
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PostPosted: 19:35 - 21 Oct 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
The nut is only welded to the frame for the conveniance of a) not being able to lose it and b) for being able to tighten it up using only one spanner.


Correct me if I'm wrong, but it's the threaded 'bolt' which is welded to the frame, not a nut ... i.e. look at any bike with twin shocks
and the top mount is usually a partially threaded shaft welded to the subframe.

So it's the mounting stud which is knackerd.

How would I sort it ...

Method 1: I'd rethread the mounting to a smaller diameter, fit a washer of sufficient size and put a new bolt on ... the main stress on the mounting is vertically, i.e. through the swingarm/shock/frame, so taking the threaded part down a size should be safe.

Method 2: With shock in position, put nut (and any washers) on and tighten as much as possible ... then drill a hole through nut and stud and insert a split pin ... nut can't come off so sorted.

Method 3: Otherwise, you'd need to remove the old stud (cut/drill) and then put a new stud in and have it welded up ... okay if you have the equipment and skills Thumbs Up
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Pete.
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Joined: 22 Aug 2006
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PostPosted: 20:16 - 21 Oct 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree with Method 2, shold last a long time. Might not pass next-years MOT if the tester's a stickler.
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ZRX61
Victor Meldrew



Joined: 05 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: 21:35 - 21 Oct 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good fucking grief, first fix should be run a thread chaser along the stud FFS Rolling Eyes
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BanditsHigh
Worse than a woman



Joined: 21 Mar 2005
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PostPosted: 06:41 - 22 Oct 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

^^^ Calm pills run out did they?

Not everyone is perfect like you 'ZRX61', they don't all have the abundant knowledge that you do, but at least he's been smart enough to ask!

As for running a thread chaser along the thread ...

Quote:
was loose, so I tried to tighten it only to find both the nut and bolt are shredded.


Shock horror, a thread chaser wouldn't work as it would only tidy up a thread which had been damaged slightly, it will not fix a thread where the bolt rotates around the stud after tightening ... as implied by the original post.

Maybe 'jingeroo' is good at reading and understanding ... so you could help him with the stud and he could teach you to read and also maybe get another supply of calm pills for you Karma


'jingeroo', meant to say if you have a tap and die set then do it yourself, otherwise (or if you've not happy with doing it) find a local engineer of sorts and get them to do it ... shouldn't cost much Thumbs Up
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 08:57 - 22 Oct 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ahh, sorry, I misread it as a captive nut Embarassed Consider my previous post as a load of bollocks.

I've never seen a twinshock with a fixed stud, mine have always had a bolt going through a lug on the subframe.

Although, if it is genuinely a bolt going through the frame with the head tack-welded in place *, grinding off the welds, knocking it back through and replacing it with a new bolt would be my preferred fix.

* Honda actually do use this method for a surprising number of studs, including those on the rear exhaust manifold on VFR750s as I was incredibly relieved to find when I sheared one.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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BanditsHigh
Worse than a woman



Joined: 21 Mar 2005
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PostPosted: 11:54 - 22 Oct 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Ahh, sorry, I misread it as a captive nut Embarassed Consider my previous post as a load of bollocks.


Not bollocks, just not quite right for this situation Laughing

Quote:
I've never seen a twinshock with a fixed stud, mine have always had a bolt going through a lug on the subframe.


Doh! after what I said I then thought, hold on my GSX1400 has bolts into a threaded section of frame Embarassed
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jingeroo
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 08 Sep 2008
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PostPosted: 18:12 - 23 Oct 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the reply's.

I'm gonna take it to a local bike shop and see what they say. I will mention some of the methods yous have advised. I think restoring the original thread is not gonna work ( using a thread chaser) as there is hardly any thread left.

Cheers again for the advice.
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Old Thread Alert!

The last post was made 17 years, 300 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
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