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Sump boss sheared - need help big time

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The Tot
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PostPosted: 16:18 - 28 Oct 2008    Post subject: Sump boss sheared - need help big time Reply with quote

I was planning to do mallory park this weekend with my mate so i got the bike prepared by bleeding the brakes and cleaning the calipers, a routine job that i've never had much problem with in the past.

When it came to doing the oil change... that's when the problems started. Righty-tighty, lefty loosey! Anticlockwise selected... removed my fairings okay, but when it came to removing the bolt... GRR it's not moving! Applied a bit more force, oil pisses out after bolt comes loose... Along with bits of the sump! Upon looking at the bolt, i have found to my dismay that there is NO crush washer in the bolt and a huge amoung of thread stripping.

Pics attached here.


Now, what would be the best solution to the problem - the sump is going to be taken off (took the headers off no problems BUT a few of the bolts have sheared in the sump making removal a bit difficult).

My options are 1) Get a new sump SO IF ANYBODY HAS A SPARE ZX6R F sump, I'll be wanting it
2) Find a local engineering firm in loughborough to weld the sump boss together and weld it shut. Tap a new M10 hole for the sump bolt in the ally.

Any other suggestions - i've used liquid metal before and i DON'T want to use it again - the bike DID run for 12 months on it.

https://w3.bikepics.com/pics/2008/10/28/bikepics-1464443-full.jpg
https://w3.bikepics.com/pics/2008/10/28/bikepics-1464444-full.jpg

If i can get stuff sorted before saturday, trackday's on, but if not Sad
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SoND
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PostPosted: 16:21 - 28 Oct 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Get it welded and clean it really well before you take it to them.
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The Tot
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PostPosted: 16:36 - 28 Oct 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Err, i just paid 10 magic beans for this https://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130241865339 .
I haven't paid for the trackday yet since my mate was organising it. BUT if i get the new sump for friday, fitted... then i'm laughing. I won't need a sump gasket would I? I presume that silicone gasket that my mates use on their cars will suffice?

I don't want to be known as the looney noob that pissed all over Gerard's writing off a load of spanking new bikes in the process! It's not THAT imperitive that i go on a trackday since many more will indeed come, but I'd rather get my last kicks before toning down my riding during winter

For the time being, the bike is laid on its side like so
https://w3.bikepics.com/pics/2008/10/28/bikepics-1464489-800.jpg

If i can get it welded for cheap, it'll be OK, but that's going to be another problem for another day when it comes to changing my oil!
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SoND
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PostPosted: 17:23 - 28 Oct 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Titz wrote:
If i can get it welded for cheap, it'll be OK, but that's going to be another problem for another day when it comes to changing my oil!


Only takes a few minutes to put a new hole and thread into it when they weld it. You could take the time afterwards to file the weld smooth if you wanted to.

You could cut a gasket from a cereal box, just rough up the shiny side before you cut it out. Go out on it to test it before you take it to the track.
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ZRX61
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PostPosted: 17:44 - 28 Oct 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Titz wrote:
I won't need a sump gasket would I?

Yes, & possibly a couple of O-rings...

Titz wrote:
I presume that silicone gasket that my mates use on their cars will suffice?

No, it won't
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The Tot
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PostPosted: 17:51 - 28 Oct 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

I kinda figured that anyway since i don't want oil leaking on my rear end causing a highside. I'll be ordering a set of gaskets for the sump and exhaust tomorow and i'll use the silicone stuff as well to double up.
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ZRX61
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PostPosted: 18:08 - 28 Oct 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Titz wrote:
i'll use the silicone stuff as well to double up.

Do NOT do that... Wink
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The Tot
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PostPosted: 18:36 - 28 Oct 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers - man, bad luck ALWAYS come in octobers!

last year - lowside, crashed and did £2000 damage!
2 years before - routine oil change - knobend, namely me torqued up incorrectly and stripped the drain plug threads
THIS YEAR - err this!

Anyway, standard gaskets it is then - I've figured now that it pays NOT to bodge.

Boy, putting the downpipes back onto the bike is going to be a right laugh (took me 2 hours last time purely because it needed 2 people... the TI downpipes are soo tight!)
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djr
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PostPosted: 19:07 - 28 Oct 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Titz wrote:

Boy, putting the downpipes back onto the bike is going to be a right laugh (took me 2 hours last time purely because it needed 2 people... the TI downpipes are soo tight!)


Coppergrease always helped me getting exhaust bolts in...

Getting out only thing that really seems to help is leaving engine running for a bit first.

I wouldn't even bother torqueing oil drain plug, finger tight plus 1/8th of a turn ish.
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Ariel Badger
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PostPosted: 20:53 - 28 Oct 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

PTFE tape on the thread for the seal. It will stop it seizing again as well.
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djr
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PostPosted: 20:59 - 28 Oct 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

1930 Ariel wrote:
PTFE tape on the thread for the seal. It will stop it seizing again as well.


PTFE tape for the oil drain plug or exhaust bolt? (am guessing oil but not sure...)
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The Tot
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PostPosted: 21:00 - 28 Oct 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

managed to get the sump off. we're going to try the blowtorch approach on the stud that's got no exposed threads. The other one, we'll weld a head onto the bolt and turn it with a spanner.

It turns out for some reason that the gasket was cardboard! I would have thought it was some rubber or elastomer gasket of some sort!. But i'll have to scrape off ALL the gunk off the crankcase surface when it comes to putting the new gasket on. I'll order whatever's in stock at cradley.

PTFE tape on the thread is a good shout too.

Coppergrease on the exhaust bolts probably won't be necessary. They went in OK when i put them in last. My main concern is that the tolerances are so tight that you have to pull the headers a considerable amount... i.e. from bank 1 to bank 4 in order to align it with the studs.

Either way, it's not a major problem now that i think of it. Sump came off after a battering with a wooden pole.
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Ariel Badger
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PostPosted: 21:12 - 28 Oct 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

To get broken bolts out try this...
Drill out the centre (with care and precision) do not use a stud extractor but hammer the tang of a file up the hole and turn it with an adjustable spanner. Extractors tend to expand the thread and tighten it into the hole, the tang does not.
Remember, heat is your friend.
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SoND
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PostPosted: 21:47 - 28 Oct 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Titz wrote:
Coppergrease on the exhaust bolts probably won't be necessary. They went in OK when i put them in last.


It stops them from seizing into the head, makes life easier for you next time the exhaust needs to come off.
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djr
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PostPosted: 21:55 - 28 Oct 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

SoND wrote:
Titz wrote:
Coppergrease on the exhaust bolts probably won't be necessary. They went in OK when i put them in last.


It stops them from seizing into the head, makes life easier for you next time the exhaust needs to come off.


I dunno if it's just me being a flid but i also find it helps getting bolts in a lot of the time Smile.

Thus why i bought a huge tub of the stuff.
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The Tot
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PostPosted: 22:28 - 28 Oct 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

My bad, i used some other sort of grease - LM grease on the gaskets the other time - i don't generally like reusing gaskets or washers. I've got a wodge of copper grease somewhere as well and i remembered how much of a pain it was to keep the washers inside the header flanges! So yeah, that'll be fine.

Ariel, I'm not risking the drill centres. I'm just too afraid because the diameter of the bolts are simply too small to drill accurately using a power drill. But yes, a blow torch is necessary to heat the ally just enough that it expands away from the bolt - miniscule but more than enough to unsieze it. Looking at the sump bolts, there appears to have been a LOT of galvanic corrosion between the steel and the ally - grease will do nicely on the new bolts though.

I'll offer these suggestions to my mate since i'm sure he'll probably have some inventive ideas.
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Odie
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PostPosted: 06:15 - 29 Oct 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try S.E.P in kegworth (just up the road from loughborough)
there number is.................01509 673295, ask for Ken.
they have done stuff for me like this before so it shouldnt be a problem.
odie
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