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Yes I know I'm a pillock. Cracked sump MK 2 -Update-

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Visitor Q
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PostPosted: 17:28 - 28 Jan 2009    Post subject: Yes I know I'm a pillock. Cracked sump MK 2 -Update- Reply with quote

Ham fisted people and sump casings, not a good match. (Voice of previous experience)

Went to undo bolt, felt tight so had a go or two, then double checked direction to undo it. Had it wrong Brick Wall

Undid it, drained it, went to put the bolt back in. First bit of pressure ... *crack*

See the attached picture for what appears to be a minute hairline crack (only noticeable when the bolt is in, so its obviously allowing it to expand a tad). I'm thinking a fresh washer on the drain bolt could be helpful anyway as I've been using the same one for 3 years (Embarassed).

But... Could I just wait for it to all drip out fully, clean it with petrol inside and out and;

1- Cover the bolt in liquid metal, thread in, remove and leave to dry.

2- Cover the bolt in instantgasket and thread in, and leave in.

3- Combination of the two.

4- Just thread in the bolt with liquid metal and hope you can get the sod out afterwards.

The problem is;

A) Most importantly, last time I killed it and had to get the sump off I fubared quite a few bolts, and ended up leaving the stumps in. It's sealed ok this time, but I wouldn't trust it that much.

B) I start work on Monday. I've only planned on using the train for a week, but I'll get very limited time to fit a new/fixed sump if I get it helicoiled/replaced

C) My bike is in a state of unhappy harmony, taking things off and reattaching them may be impossible with certain components (mainly exhaust).
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Last edited by Visitor Q on 20:23 - 31 Jan 2009; edited 1 time in total
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NiteMare
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PostPosted: 18:21 - 28 Jan 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

you "may" get away with using liquid metal (unsure)...

but you'll be really pissed off if the bolt decided to fall out and dump all your oil just in front of your rear tyre....

personally i'd go for another sump
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Visitor Q
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PostPosted: 18:35 - 28 Jan 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

NiteMare wrote:
you "may" get away with using liquid metal (unsure)...

but you'll be really pissed off if the bolt decided to fall out and dump all your oil just in front of your rear tyre....

personally i'd go for another sump


The bolt threads in perfectly fine though. I'm going to replace the washer (already peeled off the old one).

Would liquid metal on just the outside work? Or would I have to put it on both sides?

As mentioned, the sump is going to be an absolute nightmare (already had that joy when the pipes fitted properly and the bolts werent fucked... now Neutral).

I've just cleaned it up some more and it really is a pathetic little hairline crack. But the fact it was dripping with an empty sump (ie cock all pressure behind it) means I really have no choice but to sort it somehow.

What about doing coats? Do one layer rubbed in to the crack well, wait to cure for a day, rub on some more over the whole stem, wait a day etc. I'm sure after a few days it will be completely kosher. Obviously doing it with the bolt inside (as it may be causing the stem to expand slightly, although after another look I'm dubious).
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SoND
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PostPosted: 18:50 - 28 Jan 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

The crack could grow and like nitemare said you don't want it loosening up and chucking your bolt out. I've no idea if liquid metal will hold.

I'd take the sump off and either drill and weld the crack properly or replace the whole thing. Perfect time to drill out and replace the bolts you bodged the last time.
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Fadel
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PostPosted: 18:52 - 28 Jan 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Get it welded up, same thing happened on my last sump, got it ally welded + helicoiled for £20 Smile
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binge
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PostPosted: 19:28 - 28 Jan 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

I cracked the sump on my NC29 when I did it back up. I just slapped a bit of the old chemical metal around it. And it was fine. It used to seep a tiny amount of oil. Not even enough to cause it to drip though.

I changed the Sump in the end.





Ben
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Visitor Q
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PostPosted: 19:35 - 28 Jan 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fadel wrote:
Get it welded up


How does one ally weld a part?

The problem I have is last time I did this, a friend welded/liquid metaled/helicoiled it all perfectly apparently...

Leaked like an utter bastard and took ages to get done anyway Rolling Eyes

I'd rather just ring round the breakers for a new oil pan/pay 80 quid for the one off ebay if I'm to go through all the rigamorale of taking the original off and clearing the studs.

Plus there is the money side of it (to add to the time and the severe depression fighting with my bike will cause). A tube of liquid metal is probably about £10, I have some instant gasket here.

As it's a stem, could I not just liquid metal and then c-clip it tightly at the end. Would stop the aforementioned catastrophic failure (which is unlikely), and mean I'd see a puddle long before.
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virus
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PostPosted: 19:54 - 28 Jan 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

as it sticks out, Id say you have 2 options.

1) liquid metal and a small jubilee clip over the top clamped damn tight.

2) get it off and get it welded.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 20:00 - 28 Jan 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

So instead of changing a .30p washer you need a new sump at how much?

Guessing they didn't teach you any maths in your degree then? Wink

Change the sump before you come a cropper. Thumbs Up


Last edited by sickpup on 20:02 - 28 Jan 2009; edited 1 time in total
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binge
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PostPosted: 20:01 - 28 Jan 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I had the NC29 and the NC30. I was friendly with a few racers. Who had 100s of parts in their garages.

I used to get things like Sumps, For like £10 posted.

I'd have a scan round the racing section, And maybe ask around on Visor down, If you can find somebody who races CBR600's, Im sure you will get a sump for less than £80.




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Itchy
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PostPosted: 20:05 - 28 Jan 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:
So instead of changing a .30p washer you need a new sump at how much?

Guessing they didn't teach you any maths in your degree then? Wink

Change the sump before you come a cropper. Thumbs Up


meh nobody sells crush washers here , well they do but they are made of non compressable steel , which sort of defeats the point of having copper ones..... and they are £1 each to boot.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 20:06 - 28 Jan 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Itchy wrote:


meh nobody sells crush washers here , well they do but they are made of non compressable steel , which sort of defeats the point of having copper ones..... and they are £1 each to boot.



I sell Aluminium sump washers in the shop. The same shop Bonny was looking at filters in recently.
Will soon be selling copper washers as well if I can get a decent price on them.
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Visitor Q
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PostPosted: 20:11 - 28 Jan 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Anyone got any tips for using liquid metal? What to clean the surface with, does it need heat, should I do inside aswell etc?
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 20:13 - 28 Jan 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

bonny_ricardo wrote:


Anyone got any tips for using liquid metal? What to clean the surface with, does it need heat, should I do inside aswell etc?



Please just get a new sump.
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Visitor Q
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PostPosted: 20:17 - 28 Jan 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:
So instead of changing a .30p washer you need a new sump at how much?

Guessing they didn't teach you any maths in your degree then? Wink

Change the sump before you come a cropper. Thumbs Up


Sucks to your asthma !

Innumerable people have told me to ignore the haynes doom and gloom of a new one every time.

Unfortunately I'm a fat handed twat though. If anything I did the damage 'undoing' the wrong way, so the washer wasn't the issue.

Will be replacing it tomorrow if I can find anywhere locally that sells them. If not I shall be frequenting your shop squire Razz
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From September 2014 to January/February 2015 I will not be using any English, nor reading any. As such, I won't be on here. PM at will, but I won't be checking/posting unless in emergencies. Certainly not for the first couple of months. Please berate me savagely if I break that rule...
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 20:26 - 28 Jan 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

bonny_ricardo wrote:


Sucks to your asthma !



Confused

bonny_ricardo wrote:


Innumerable people have told me to ignore the haynes doom and gloom of a new one every time.



Maybe not every time, once would have been nice.

bonny_ricardo wrote:


Unfortunately I'm a fat handed twat though. If anything I did the damage 'undoing' the wrong way, so the washer wasn't the issue.



Which is why I would prefer you to replace the sump. Lets face it you aren't going to bother looking at in every day to see if it leaks. You aren't going to grind a V into the crack to give the chemical metal some area to adhere to and you aren't going to check it doesn't leak when it gets hot.

bonny_ricardo wrote:


Will be replacing it tomorrow if I can find anywhere locally that sells them. If not I shall be frequenting your shop squire Razz



Any car shop should do them.
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 20:50 - 28 Jan 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

To use liquid metal, araldite etc. it needs to be completely clean. Use Ispropyl alcohol available here https://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?moduleno=28994

Clean your sump plug and put it in to open the crack slightly. Then clean the crack and force in your liqud metal. Then take the bolt out and put a good quality jubilee clip tight around the cracked stub and leave to dry. Once it's dry, put your sump plug back in with a new washer and don't overtighten. Leave the jubilee clip on the stub.

That would get you by until you get a new sump.
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Visitor Q
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PostPosted: 21:01 - 28 Jan 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:
bonny_ricardo wrote:


Sucks to your asthma !



Confused



An old quote from Lord of the Flies that amused me (the only part of said book that even remotely amused me but hey, GCSE English Lit is meant to make you hate books).

By the way, theres a difference between obtuse and hamfisted. I'm quite capable of checking it doesnt leak, hence why last time I put on the 'fixed' sump and then had to take it off and get a new one. It was leak proof with a small quantity in, but certainly not a full 4 litres.

I'm quite happy to grind in a V (now that I'm aware its a good idea) assuming I have something suitable to do the job. I can borrow some Isopropyl alcohol (thanks for the heads up Polarbear) from a mate of mine.

And I believe I did the washer once in hindsight, probably when I last replaced the sump as they weren't previously mated. Waiting for a crush washer to crush is probably more terrifying and getting an old one torqued up Shocked

Also, the rant I'll get off both my grandad and dad for my bike marking it's territory on either drive will ensure I know very rapidly if it leaks Thumbs Up

I think I'm going to give the liquid metal approach a go, if someone would be so kind as to explain the 'V' theory to me Thumbs Up

If it isn't holding volume then I'll have to suck it up and waste a good day or so of my life further down the line up to my ears in bent exhaust pipes and screw extractors/dremels.
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China traffic/travel bike vid - When I make a sweeping statement, please add the word 'statistically' in to the sentence before you bitch...
From September 2014 to January/February 2015 I will not be using any English, nor reading any. As such, I won't be on here. PM at will, but I won't be checking/posting unless in emergencies. Certainly not for the first couple of months. Please berate me savagely if I break that rule...
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SoND
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PostPosted: 22:11 - 28 Jan 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

bonny_ricardo wrote:
How does one ally weld a part?


With an AC TIG welder.

You drill into the end of the crack and bevel the area you need to weld. Weld it up, tap the thread and file it down if you want to.

If you take it to a welder clean the part very well before you give it to them, they'll like you for it.
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SoND
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PostPosted: 22:14 - 28 Jan 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

bonny_ricardo wrote:
I think I'm going to give the liquid metal approach a go, if someone would be so kind as to explain the 'V' theory to me Thumbs Up


More penetration.

https://www.tpub.com/content/construction/14250/img/14250_46_1.jpg
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Visitor Q
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PostPosted: 23:33 - 28 Jan 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

That helps a bit. I assume its file the crack a bit deeper in essence?

I've borrowed some files from a mate, and his isoclene. So thats that covered.

Just need to get some liquid metal and a new crush washer and I'll get to see how irritating this mistake is Sad
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From September 2014 to January/February 2015 I will not be using any English, nor reading any. As such, I won't be on here. PM at will, but I won't be checking/posting unless in emergencies. Certainly not for the first couple of months. Please berate me savagely if I break that rule...
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Damon
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PostPosted: 01:39 - 29 Jan 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

bonny_ricardo wrote:
That helps a bit. I assume its file the crack a bit deeper in essence?

I've borrowed some files from a mate, and his isoclene. So thats that covered.

Just need to get some liquid metal and a new crush washer and I'll get to see how irritating this mistake is Sad


You got any pictures of the crack? may give us a better idea.

And couldn't you V the crack, fill it with chemical metal, then place a metal plate over the area. Use more chemical metal to seal?. something like this...

https://img230.imageshack.us/img230/9119/sumpsplitpo7.png
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Visitor Q
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PostPosted: 04:15 - 29 Jan 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dam0n wrote:

You got any pictures of the crack? may give us a better idea.



I tried but it wouldn't come out. It's literally a hairline crack just over a cm long, barely visible.

Quote:


And couldn't you V the crack, fill it with chemical metal, then place a metal plate over the area. Use more chemical metal to seal?. something like this...

https://img230.imageshack.us/img230/9119/sumpsplitpo7.png


Would have to be perfectly curved and sealed. The circlip is essentially the same idea, but more for holding the stem tight. I might get hold of 2 of the buggers as they're cheap as hell, and optimistically use them as a bandage Laughing
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From September 2014 to January/February 2015 I will not be using any English, nor reading any. As such, I won't be on here. PM at will, but I won't be checking/posting unless in emergencies. Certainly not for the first couple of months. Please berate me savagely if I break that rule...
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SoND
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PostPosted: 09:17 - 29 Jan 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

The idea about drilling the crack before you fix it is because sharp corners concentrate stress and help the crack grow. Drilling it and giving it a round spreads any forces out and helps prevent it happening again.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stress_concentration
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Visitor Q
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PostPosted: 09:25 - 29 Jan 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

SoND wrote:
The idea about drilling the crack before you fix it is because sharp corners concentrate stress and help the crack grow. Drilling it and giving it a round spreads any forces out and helps prevent it happening again.


Would it have to be a deep hole? I understand the general idea behind it, I'm just worried about resealing the bugger afterwards (not to mention the sod of drilling it in situ).

Plus I get the feeling the stress of the actual drilling would cause cracks radiating all over the shop Thinking They really did make the bastard out of cheese.
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