Running In

TJ NSR · World Chat Champion Joined: 03 Feb 2002 Karma :

Taken from somewhere else...

Running-in your new bikes engine.

Manufacturer’s often give an impractical running-in procedure. Besides offering a guide-line to riders with limited mechanical understanding, it is to protect the manufacturer’s warranty from engine abuse during the vulnerable period of an engine’s life (i.e. the first thousand miles).
A non –blueprinted engine will have high spots on the pistons and crankshaft bearings.
Running-in knocks high spots off and lets parts wear to a perfect fit. If it’s done too quickly there’s a chance parts will weld themselves together locally. A highly localised seizure will instantly be torn apart by the engine’s motion. The welded particles are shoved along, ploughing grooves which churn up more metal (called picking up). The debris is carried in the oil, wearing everything away until it’s caught by the oil filter.
If running-in is done too gently, parts can become polished to a smooth surface that won’t hold oil later on. The engine looses power through friction (or takes lots of miles before it makes full power) and may have oil control problems.
The middle path is not too gentle and not too violent. Using a high quality oil run in a motor can make things worse because it lubricates when you actually want a bit of wear.
Use cheap oil, change it and the filter (if applicable) at 600 miles when you should switch to good oil.

You won't damage the engine, (in fact it will release more power earlier) if you run it in the correct way.

The correct way being:-

1. Always warm the oil thoroughly before pulling away

2. Build up the revs gently (smooth throttle control) during the running in period

3. Try to vary the revs (don't sit on the motorway at 4000 rpm for an hour, also don't hold it at 9-10,000 for a long time).

4. Try to be smooth with gear changes and 'blip' the throttle for down changes.

5. At 600 miles change oil and filter and use best quality oil.

6. After 600 mile service up the revs a bit till about 1000 miles when you should use it to it's full potential.

7. Always use good quality oil and renew the filter at each oil change (iff applicable ie no filter on 2ts).

craigT19 · Jolly Green Giant Joined: 09 Feb 2002 Karma :

Also....

Don't use fully synthetic oil during the break in period, as it will effectively polish the inside of the engine, compromising the rings and bearings ability to hold oil.
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rallymad · Renault 5 Driver Joined: 20 May 2003 Karma :

wot type of oil should you use then?////
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Korn · Admin Joined: 01 Feb 2002 Karma :

Semi synthetic or Mineral.
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trigg · Derestricted Danger Joined: 16 Oct 2003 Karma :

once it's been run in what oil should you use?
I have just brought a '94 nsr125 and the guy i brought it off said to use semi synthetic as well as a few mates but my local dealer said only use fully synthetic as semi could break down and cause the thing to seize!!!
I'm new to all this so any info would be a life saver.
trigg Twisted Evil

MarJay · But it's British! Joined: 15 Sep 2003 Karma :

Use fully synth, its the only way you'll get any peace of mind from a performance 2 stroke. Smile

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Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.

cagiva gezzer · World Chat Champion Joined: 17 Mar 2003 Karma :

Always use fully synthetic for 2t oil. Use semi until the first service in the gearbox (2 stroke) and engine (four stroke).
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trigg · Derestricted Danger Joined: 16 Oct 2003 Karma :

thanks folks i'll fill up with fully synthetic next time it's empty.
only prob is it's just been filled up with semi so for the next couple of hundred miles i'll be waiting for a bang!!!! Sick

McJamweasel · BCF Junkie Joined: 22 Mar 2002 Karma :

trigg · Derestricted Danger Joined: 16 Oct 2003 Karma :

thats what's in it at the moment and all seems ok except for a flat spot at about 5-7 tho rpm but the guy who i brought it off said it's always been like that (normally i wouldn't belive him but he is an old mate) he thinks it's something to do with restriction but i'm not so sure it will go in for a full service as soon as finances permit ,but still it cost me next to nothing and it's more fun than the vauxhall omega that carts the wife and son around!!!

Scotty · Scooter Boi Joined: 31 Jul 2002 Karma :

Always used Semi Synth on 2 stroke, never had any problems...
But there 2 smokes i had wherent that highly tunned
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McJamweasel · BCF Junkie Joined: 22 Mar 2002 Karma :

My NSR has a flat spot between 5 and 6k, they are fairly normal cos they're tuned in to help pass noise and emmission regs.
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trigg · Derestricted Danger Joined: 16 Oct 2003 Karma :

cheers mate i was a bit worried for a bit it's a bit bloody anoying though.
I'd like to thank you all for helping me answer these questions i'm new to the biking scene and am thankfull for all the advice and support i can get.Nice one lads Laughing

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bktan · L Plate Warrior Joined: 13 Nov 2003 Karma :

i need to know the answer for this but nobody has provided me one thus far.

why is it we should use fully synth to RUN IN a new 2 stroke bike but we CANNOT use fully synth to RUN IN a new 4-stroke bike?

Scotty · Scooter Boi Joined: 31 Jul 2002 Karma :

Two stroke oil is to fine, and is ment / designed to be burn't up.
four stroke bikes re use the oil again and again.

Thus putting 2 stroke oil in a 4 stroke bike will do nothing, and probably destroy it.
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Regards
Scott

bktan · L Plate Warrior Joined: 13 Nov 2003 Karma :

baldrick · Two Stroke Sniffer Joined: 10 Nov 2003 Karma :

Just to clarify, the first post was really for 4 strokes only, the process of "running in" a 2 stroke is much quicker & simpler. A 2 stroke does not need any main or big end bearing run in period, it is the barrel & rings which requires the running in. This process is simply to warm the bike up to operating temperature & let it cool down 2 or 3 times. Then ride the bike not using the powerband for 50 miles, then gradually increase the revs by about 1000 every 50 miles. most 2 strokes will be run in by 250-350 miles.
My rs race bike runs in pretty much on the stand, then maybe a dozen laps. I use castrol a747, there are plenty of good oils on the market, motul 800t, silkolene pro, etc.

baldrick · Two Stroke Sniffer Joined: 10 Nov 2003 Karma :

Just to clarify, the first post was really for 4 strokes only, the process of "running in" a 2 stroke is much quicker & simpler. A 2 stroke does not need any main or big end bearing run in period, it is the barrel & rings which requires the running in. This process is simply to warm the bike up to operating temperature & let it cool down 2 or 3 times. Then ride the bike not using the powerband for 50 miles, then gradually increase the revs by about 1000 every 50 miles. most 2 strokes will be run in by 250-350 miles.
My rs race bike runs in pretty much on the stand, then maybe a dozen laps. I use castrol a747, there are plenty of good oils on the market, motul 800t, silkolene pro, etc.

bktan · L Plate Warrior Joined: 13 Nov 2003 Karma :

baldrick · Two Stroke Sniffer Joined: 10 Nov 2003 Karma :

Hiya,
I did not look to see whether A747 is synthetic or not, my choice to use that oil is based on it being the best for mixing with avgas, when I said RS race bike I did mean H.R.C. GP125. If you are running a road bike, simply buy what the manufacturer recommends or equivalent. As 2 strokes burn the oil off every "2 strokes" & do not run shell bearings, the qualities of the oil needed are quite different & do not always relate to what a 4 stroke needs.
Yes, I do mean I can almost run the bike in on the stand, but as I have stated, I do about a dozen laps, bringing up the revs & the throttle opening, until the last lap I do is full chat.
I only use one oil for gearbox, running in or racing, silkolene light gear oil, but again, use what the manufacturer recommends & you will not go wrong.