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Two stroke question: Backfires?

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MarJay
But it's British!



Joined: 15 Sep 2003
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PostPosted: 11:37 - 26 May 2009    Post subject: Two stroke question: Backfires? Reply with quote

Hello!

I suspect I might be being overly cautious because of the recent luck I've had with my bikes (none of them are roadworthy at the moment - the Triumph has a wiring fault, the Powervalve needs a rebore, the MZ is leaking oil over the back tyre and the LC needs an MOT). The problem in this case is with the LC. I'd like to get it MOT'd but I have the following issue:

It starts and runs fine, it feels very quick to ride (in the very short distances that I've ridden it) except it seems to like to backfire out of the right hand exhaust. I think it is only the right exhaust that is affected, but I might be wrong. I recently removed the exhausts to sand and paint them, I replaced the exhaust gaskets (which did not help - it backfired before and it still backfires now) and when I did so I discovered that the baffles in the back of the exhaust had been cut down. I also discovered that the air box lid had been drilled.

Anyway, I warmed it up at the weekend and went for a quick ride up and down my street. It still backfired a bit. When I got back to my garage I switched the ignition off and examined the plugs. They were wet with petrol and oil, and completely black. I lowered the needles one notch and did the same. The plugs seemed a bit better after I had done this, but were still wet with petrol.

Now, what concerns me is that someone on the RD forum told me that backfires are an indication of running lean - which makes sense considering the baffles have been cut and the airbox drilled. However the plugs seem to indicate it is running rich.

I originally thought that backfires were down to rich running? Does anyone know why it might only backfire out of one exhaust?

I recently replaced the float needles and float seats in the carbs, but I have not checked the float height since I've had the bike.

Any comments appreciated! Thumbs Up Smile
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 12:11 - 26 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does it backfire on the overrun or at a particular throttle opening?

It may be that the idle circuit is lean, causing the misfire, but the main circuit is running rich, black plugs.
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 12:35 - 26 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ichy wrote:
Does it backfire on the overrun or at a particular throttle opening?

It may be that the idle circuit is lean, causing the misfire, but the main circuit is running rich, black plugs.


Yeah its about a third throttle opening it backfires I reckon, but I might be wrong. Maybe I'll take the carbs off and clean them again, and check the float heights.
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EnergyInducti...
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PostPosted: 12:45 - 26 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

My CZ was backfiring before, quite badly some days. I found the problem eventually, The ignition timing was WAY off. I let the garage sort that, But after, All the backfiring was gone, And what WAS a black plug, Eventually turned light tan =P
Not sure if this helps, but I hope you sort it in the end =)
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Robby
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PostPosted: 13:47 - 26 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Take it for a proper run and see. You know full well that trying to diagnose intermittent rough running by doing 2 minute runs on a bike that has been standing for ages is a poor idea.

You may find that if it's a bit of muck in a carb, getting some fuel through will clear it. If it's something electrical playing up, getting it good and hot and working will either fix it or show the fault up properly.

However...

It isn't my fault if you break it.

My valve was running like a pig on one of the cylinders when I rebuilt it - turned out I hadn't connected up the vacuum connection for the fuel tap, so it was sucking in loads of air. Do you get similar amounts of smoke from each exhaust when you rev it at a standstill?
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 13:49 - 26 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

robby wrote:
Take it for a proper run and see. You know full well that trying to diagnose intermittent rough running by doing 2 minute runs on a bike that has been standing for ages is a poor idea.

You may find that if it's a bit of muck in a carb, getting some fuel through will clear it. If it's something electrical playing up, getting it good and hot and working will either fix it or show the fault up properly.

However...

It isn't my fault if you break it.

My valve was running like a pig on one of the cylinders when I rebuilt it - turned out I hadn't connected up the vacuum connection for the fuel tap, so it was sucking in loads of air. Do you get similar amounts of smoke from each exhaust when you rev it at a standstill?


Yep get similar amounts of smoke. The fuel tap is not a vacuum tap and I've stripped and cleaned both carbs. I did not put carb cleaner through the pilot jets though...

I can't take it for a run until it has an MOT, so I'll book it in for one this weekend.

Oh yeah, and it doesn't run like a pig, it wheelies like a bitch when it gets into the power band in 1st!
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Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.
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flat spot
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PostPosted: 19:30 - 26 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Backfires are generally caused by incorrect fueling or timing issues. Easiest to do is check the timing is spot on. Also check you have a healthy blue spark.

Get a new airbox lid and put the carbs back to the standard settings. Drilling the airbox without doing anything else is LC bollocks bodgery at its best.

Check the fueling once it's all standard. If it's running lean it's sucking air in. Check the inlet rubbers on the cylinders for cracks.
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 19:34 - 26 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

flat spot wrote:
Backfires are generally caused by incorrect fueling or timing issues. Easiest to do is check the timing is spot on. Also check you have a healthy blue spark.

Get a new airbox lid and put the carbs back to the standard settings. Drilling the airbox without doing anything else is LC bollocks bodgery at its best.

Check the fueling once it's all standard. If it's running lean it's sucking air in. Check the inlet rubbers on the cylinders for cracks.


Would the cracks be really obvious? The inlet rubbers are OK, in fact they look pretty new. They have a slight line on the top but I'm sure it can't be a crack that goes all the way through...

How do I check the timing? I'm pretty new to electrical stuff! Embarassed
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 06:40 - 27 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've been told on the RD forum that it could be a twisted crank causing the timing to be out. I'll give the right hand carb another clean and see what happens.
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Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.
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flat spot
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PostPosted: 16:30 - 27 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes it's difficult to check for cracks with them on. You need to take them off and squidge them around.

Next step, buy this.....

https://cgi.ebay.co.uk/YAMAHA-RD250-RD350-LC-HAYNES-Manual-1980-82-NEW_W0QQitemZ200337650301QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Motorcycle_Parts?hash=item2ea50df27d&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1683%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318%7C301%3A0%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A50

Wink
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 16:55 - 27 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

flat spot wrote:



I've got one of those.
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flat spot
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PostPosted: 20:46 - 27 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I've got one of those.


Eh? Then go to the timing checking section. Confused Very Happy
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 21:54 - 27 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

flat spot wrote:
Quote:
I've got one of those.


Eh? Then go to the timing checking section. Confused Very Happy


Its in my garage. I'll have a look tomorrow.
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welshlad25
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Joined: 27 May 2009
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PostPosted: 22:18 - 27 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

im no expert on bikes but no a lil bit like others have said it cud b timing m8. my honda mtx backfired on kick over stripped it down and found the piston was knackerd

Last edited by welshlad25 on 22:20 - 27 May 2009; edited 1 time in total
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 22:18 - 27 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

BLUEX5 wrote:
MarJay wrote:
I've been told on the RD forum that it could be a twisted crank causing the timing to be out. I'll give the right hand carb another clean and see what happens.


Could be, but the crank would of had to spread drastically to make a difference to the timing on one pot.


True, but I have no idea what the DPO has done (Dreaded Previous Owner(s)) and apparently tightening the flywheel nut with an air impact wrench can do that very thing...

Still I'm pinning my hopes on it being the carbs. I'm going to strip them again tomorrow night to see what I can find out.
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 07:59 - 28 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

The plugs are fine, they are brand new. The bike backfired before it had new plugs.

I don't have a spare carb, but I reckon if I clean the carb that should prove that it is OK.

Although, one of the carbs (I think its the left one) Has a small brass tube missing on the edge of the float chamber that appears to connect the two halves of the carb together. I don't think its a major problem as it looks like it is from an overflow or something.

Anybody got any ideas what it is?
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Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.
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MarJay
But it's British!



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PostPosted: 08:55 - 28 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

BLUEX5 wrote:
MarJay wrote:
The plugs are fine, they are brand new. The bike backfired before it had new plugs.

I don't have a spare carb, but I reckon if I clean the carb that should prove that it is OK.

Although, one of the carbs (I think its the left one) Has a small brass tube missing on the edge of the float chamber that appears to connect the two halves of the carb together. I don't think its a major problem as it looks like it is from an overflow or something.

Anybody got any ideas what it is?


Pic please - then I can check on my spare LC carbs exactly what it does.


Its not like the pic that CHR15 posted, its actually embedded in the edge of the float bowl. Its only about 1-1.5cm long.
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ms51ves3
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PostPosted: 10:54 - 28 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like the power jet fitting to me.

Does it look like this?

https://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a376/ms51ves3/DSC01039.jpg

If so, it's important. Your bike will run lean at the top end of the rev range without a tube between the two fittings pictured.
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 11:24 - 28 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

I was thinking power jet pip as well. The piping on one was missing on the TZR250 which might explain why it was down on performance.

Piccy would be useful. Could be someone has fitted later carbs.

All the best

Keith
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 11:33 - 28 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kickstart wrote:
Hi

I was thinking power jet pip as well. The piping on one was missing on the TZR250 which might explain why it was down on performance.

Piccy would be useful. Could be someone has fitted later carbs.

All the best

Keith


It doesn't stick out of the float bowl, it is embedded in the side of it.

The carbs are definately 4L0 carbs because they have no vacuum connection.
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