Clutch Actuator?

[johnsmith222]

Hi.

I recently sent my bike down the road at around 30mph. It touched down on it's right side so there is some damage to both the clutch case and the clutch actuator. The clutch operated fine before the crash.

I have spent lots of time setting the clutch cable to the highest adjustment possible on both lever and clutch end, removing the clutch actuator and messing with it etc but for some reason I cannot free up the rear wheel except when the bike is in neutral.

I have had the clutch case off to inspect things.

https://www.cornwallkawasaki.co.uk/shop/catalogue_images/1689.jpg

I think this might be the problem (part 13102):

https://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a324/david_m213/DSC00391.jpg

I opened up the clutch case to inspect everything and it all seems ok. Something I don't really get is how just 1mm less metal could result in thre not being enough adjustment on both the clutch case and lever to let the back wheel turn freely.

When I opened the case I noticed the part in the middle of the clutch (46102 in diagram) has 2mm free play before it starts pulling on the actual clutch.

How sure are you guys that the end of my actuator is the problem? I don't want to buy a new one thinking it's that and then finding it's something else.

I held the clutch case in position with my hands, using the oil filler hole to look into the engine and turned the clutch actuator at the bottom of the case and it seems to be working. Do you think the 1mm chunk that's missing is the reason I can't get the clutch working or is it something else?

Surely setting the clutch cable up to the highest possible adjustment should be enough to make up for that 1mm less material?

I'm just double checking before I order a new actuator because I cannot afford to throw £30 away on a part I might not need when it's something else.

Thank you for your help and opinion.

[Phoenix]

If you reassemble it properly and operate the clutch lever with the oil cap off can you see the clutch plates being moved? It's possible part 46012 has been damaged and while the actuator is moving it the part of it which pulls against the pressure plate has sheared off or bent, ideally you'll have to pull the clutch to bits to check or have a good look through the centre hole of the pressure plate but the bearing will probably mean you can't see. I wouldn't have thought that tiny bit of metal off the actuator would affect it but as it's been damaged i'd be tempted to swap it if you find a spare.

[johnsmith222]

[Pete.]

That puller looks ok to me.

If it's been down on that side I would check the crank-arm on the top of the puller shaft (the arm with the fitting you hook the cable into) especially if you have only lost adjustment since the spill. It might be twisted round a little on the shaft. Even if it wasn't I'd move it around a bit to allow more play.

Another thing that might have happened is the casing might be pressed in a little in the middle from the spill. That would move the hooked park of the puller (the bit you say is worn a bit) closer to the clutch thus robbing you of adjustment.

Alternatively, you could put a washer on the part 46102 before assembling the pressure-plate over it. This would effectively take up the clearance. You'd have to make sure the washer wasn't too big that it fouls the outer part of bearing 92045, and make sure it wasn't so thick that the bearing had weight on it before you pull on the cable.
____________________
a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good

[johnsmith222]

Hi G.

Thanks a lot for replying. The clutch worked perfectly fine before I crashed. I will take photos of the bottom end of the clutch actuator and the clutch case as it went down on that side. Both the clutch case and the bottom of the actuator are scuffed, but they look like they should still be ok. I'll take pics to show how things are on the other end and also the damage to the clutch case.

Thanks a lot.

[Phoenix]

I suppose another possible explanation is depending on what happened to the actuator arm when it hit the deck the cable may have been stretched or a few of the strands may have split along the cable meaning it's just too long to be adjusted properly, just try and see if when the cable is fully adjusted if it is actually operating the clutch actuator to it's full extent of movement, if it isn't you could cut the cable and put a new nipple on the end or replace it as the former would just be a short term solution, something must have bent or stretched somewhere along the line.

[johnsmith222]

[Pete.]

It's easy to tell if it's a cable issue or an actuator one. Assemble the clutch & cover and look at the angle described by the arm and the cable run. Most clutch release arms will make an angle roughly 90 degrees from the cable when it starts to pull. If you have an angle of say 120-140 degrees, you have a release mechanism issue, if it's a healthy 80-100 degrees, the cable is stretched.

If it was ok before the accident then my money is on the release mechanism. Can you find another bike to compare it with?
____________________
a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good

[johnsmith222]

Thanks for all the help.

It seems with all my fiddling the bike is no longer stalling when the bike is put into 1st with the clutch in. I think the clutch is dragging now though as I cannot turn the back wheel by hand with the clutch in (when I can do so in neutral).

I remember being able to turn the back wheel by hand before the crash.

Thanks for all your help. Once I get my rear sets through the door I'll be able to actually test the bike and see how everything is.