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STUDS? & NUTS? WHY NOT BOLTS?

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stirlinggaz
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PostPosted: 15:39 - 09 Aug 2009    Post subject: STUDS? & NUTS? WHY NOT BOLTS? Reply with quote

Hi all,
a thought just occurred to me,
why, on the cylinder head are there 5 studs, which thread into the cylinder, then tighten down with nuts?
wouldnt it be simpler just to use bolts?
ie : put the cylinder head on & bolt down?
it would be easier to get them all at the same height that way, no?
or is there a specific reason why threaded rods/studs are used?
cheers,
GAZ
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stirlinggaz
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Joined: 22 Jul 2007
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PostPosted: 15:55 - 09 Aug 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

mmm. suppose that makes sense..
however im having the problems that you mention.
stripped the threads on 2 of the studs & im unable to remove them on my other cylinder!
i managed to remove all the studs from the cylinder im about to fit, & thought that seeing as i have damaged 2 of them (beyond repair)
it would make sense to remove the studs from my spare cylinder.
would they budge?
would they f*ck!
found 5 bolts, same lenth & same thread.
would there be any reason i shouldnt use them?
apart from the reasons you previously mentioned.
& i should be ok seeing as there the same lenth, no?
(perhaps with a dab of copper ease to stop seizing?)
cheers,
GAZ
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ZRX61
Victor Meldrew



Joined: 05 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: 16:38 - 09 Aug 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

stirlinggaz wrote:
would they budge?
would they f*ck!
GAZ

Heat is your friend...
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stirlinggaz
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Joined: 22 Jul 2007
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PostPosted: 16:48 - 09 Aug 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

tried blow torch & plusgas.
problem is, try & grip them tight with molegrips & it strips the threads, so no point removing, lol
now given up & trying bolts.
cheers,
GAZ
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MattEMulsion
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Joined: 29 Aug 2004
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PostPosted: 21:13 - 09 Aug 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Use a pair of stilsons instead of mole grips. Wink
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Robby
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PostPosted: 22:05 - 09 Aug 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Use new studs when reassembling, or you'll have the same problem next time you take it apart. New studs screw into clean threads by hand, I use the lightest smear of copper grease although I doubt it lasts 5 minutes. Then you can cap them with deep brass nuts, so when you come to remove them you won't have corroded threads behind the stud.

Bolts will still work. Studs make it easier to line up a multi pipe exhaust and locate it in position.
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ncrn
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PostPosted: 22:08 - 09 Aug 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

I always figured you used studs so that if you screw up the thread at a top of a stud you can always just remove it. Whereas if you were to screw up a thread in a cylinder head with a bolt then you might need to replace the whole cylinder head rather than just a stud. Studs are far cheaper to replace, and easier by far.
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ZRX61
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Joined: 05 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: 01:28 - 10 Aug 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

*Proper* stud removers resemble lathe collets & grip the threaded bit. However they are rarer than rocking horse shit so if you see some, grab em.

Studs are only supposed to be finger tight yanno...
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cyberglass
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Joined: 28 Jun 2005
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PostPosted: 04:26 - 10 Aug 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

had to take some stripped studs out an engine block a while back.

Heres what i did

Get a blow torch and a drill some masking tape and a file

First i filled an accesible side of the stud till it had a slight flat then i stuck a bit of tape on (stops the bit slipping) and drilled a hole through the stud. Then i heated the ally block around the stud up and stuck an allenkey through the drill hole gave it a twist and it freed up and could then be removed with a set of moleys.

you could also attempt to make a flat on both sides of the stud and see if you can get a grip with the moleys and give it a turn.
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stirlinggaz
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Joined: 22 Jul 2007
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PostPosted: 18:50 - 10 Aug 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

hi all,
& thanks for the replies.
i was always under the impression you just put a smear of copper grease on the threads of the studs & tightened them down by hand.
dunno if thats right, buts what i always done.
but these 5 were pretty solid.
maybe just seized to the alloy cylinder? maybe because of no copper grease?
anyway, i got 4 of them out, but 1 is being a pain.
i dont mind replacing them & tbh, i should, seeing as i've stripped most of threads with molegrips. Embarassed
anyway, i now have 2 decent cylinders, 1 decent cylinder head & piston.
but cant make one decent engine out of all that lot as the cylinder that has 5 intact studs is slightly too tight for the piston i have.
so its either try & get this bugger of a stud out & replace all 5.
or get a piston to suit the other cylinder.
providing i can get one of the bottom ends to work, lol
one of them, the woodruff key slot has widened after shearing a couple of keys.
the other i bought off ebay & is untested. & now i cant get the flywheel to turn by hand. Confused
i give up.
cheers,
GAZ
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stirlinggaz
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Joined: 22 Jul 2007
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PostPosted: 20:14 - 10 Aug 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

MattEMulsion wrote:
Use a pair of stilsons instead of mole grips. Wink

good idea....
when i remembered what a stilson wrench was, lol (though i would have called it a pipe or plumbers wrench)
glad i bought the old 14 inch thing for a pound at a car boot sale!
done the trick.
think its the 1st time i have ever used it, & i bought it about 3 years ago!
cheers,
GAZ
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