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CBF 500 Mid Range ( 5K-6K RPM ) Power Loss

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Aibisi
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 16 Feb 2021
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PostPosted: 14:14 - 16 Feb 2021    Post subject: CBF 500 Mid Range ( 5K-6K RPM ) Power Loss Reply with quote

Hey there guys, I recently bought myself a 2005 CBF 500, bike is in pretty good condition, ( 37.000 KM / 23.000 Miles ) previous owner said all services were done by her mechanic and last one was done pretty recently, which would have been only 1000km / 600 miles ago.
Before I bought the bike I checked the oil, it was pretty fresh and on level, coolant was spot on as well, overall the bike is in mint condition.
However there's one thing thats been bothering, bike accelerates perfectly fine but every time you hit the 5-6k RPM range the bike stutters a little bit and there's a clear loss of power almost like mild fuel cut and after going above 6.000rpm it just picks up power again like nothing ever happened. I am unsure if this is some sort of carburator maintenance they might have missed? The bike idle is fine and stable, the fuel economy is around 38mpg which is a bit higher than I expected but it might be that im just used to my little old 125cc.
Is anyone else having this issue and any advice on what I should do?
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Robby
Dirty Old Man



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PostPosted: 14:22 - 16 Feb 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

The fuel burn is a bit high. That combined with the stutter at 6k suggests it's running rich somewhere.

However, there is good chance it has hardly been ridden for the last year and just needs some fresh fuel a good clear out. Run the tank to almost empty, fill up, and then put 100 miles on it. See if the problem takes care of itself.
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Aibisi
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Joined: 16 Feb 2021
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PostPosted: 15:21 - 16 Feb 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robby wrote:
The fuel burn is a bit high. That combined with the stutter at 6k suggests it's running rich somewhere.

However, there is good chance it has hardly been ridden for the last year and just needs some fresh fuel a good clear out. Run the tank to almost empty, fill up, and then put 100 miles on it. See if the problem takes care of itself.


The bike was indeed not being used much and thats the reason the previous owner sold it, but I've gone through 2 fuel tanks since I have her and the problem is still not gone. Crying or Very sad
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jeffyjeff
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PostPosted: 15:27 - 16 Feb 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

A quick fuelly search shows your fuel consumption is indeed on the high side. Confused https://www.fuelly.com/motorcycle/honda/cbf500
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Robby
Dirty Old Man



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PostPosted: 15:43 - 16 Feb 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

In that case it is possible there is something amiss inside the carbs - either something blocked with varnish, or something else loose or broken. Unlikely to be a misguided attempt at tuning, because people don't generally bother trying to make a CBF500 go faster.

Make sure the air filter is clear first. I do know from the earlier CB500 that a dirty air filter would really choke them up, as would any kind of mods to the air box. The CB500 used to pick up quite significantly around 6-8k rpm, which I assume was down to some clever matching between airbox and cam. Was a bit flat from 5-6k, but not to the point of feeling broken.

Check air filter. If that is all clean and properly fitted, and no-one comes along with a better idea, I would be getting the carbs off and checking them over for trouble.
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Aibisi
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PostPosted: 16:55 - 16 Feb 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robby wrote:
In that case it is possible there is something amiss inside the carbs - either something blocked with varnish, or something else loose or broken. Unlikely to be a misguided attempt at tuning, because people don't generally bother trying to make a CBF500 go faster.

Make sure the air filter is clear first. I do know from the earlier CB500 that a dirty air filter would really choke them up, as would any kind of mods to the air box. The CB500 used to pick up quite significantly around 6-8k rpm, which I assume was down to some clever matching between airbox and cam. Was a bit flat from 5-6k, but not to the point of feeling broken.

Check air filter. If that is all clean and properly fitted, and no-one comes along with a better idea, I would be getting the carbs off and checking them over for trouble.


Just checked the air filter, its brand new and clean... was hoping its something this simple because I have no experience with carburetors at all, all my previous bikes were FI.
I have noticed something that might also be helpful in someway to discover what the problem is, if you try to start the bike from cold with the choke fully open it won't really start and if its running and you open it all the way, it just stalls, it does not like full choke at all, probably running too rich?
I found out a curiosity just now ( probably useless and just how an alternator works ) that the front headlight gets slightly brighter with some revs never had this on previous bikes Confused .
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 16:55 - 16 Feb 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is an obvious cause which hasn't been mentioned yet.

Does it have the original airbox and filter? In line fours seem to be susseptable to a hole in the power at about 5-6k when the standard induction, which was incidentally developed at a massive cost by the original manufcacturer, gets fucked about with.
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Aibisi
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PostPosted: 17:02 - 16 Feb 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
There is an obvious cause which hasn't been mentioned yet.

Does it have the original airbox and filter? In line fours seem to be susseptable to a hole in the power at about 5-6k when the standard induction, which was incidentally developed at a massive cost by the original manufcacturer, gets fucked about with.


Yes, original airbox and I'm not sure which brand the filter is but it is the proper model.
And its not an inline four its a paralell twin.
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jeffyjeff
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PostPosted: 18:10 - 16 Feb 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robby wrote:
In that case it is possible there is something amiss inside the carbs - either something blocked with varnish, or something else loose or broken.

Could be something as simple as a carburetor float. Sometimes they develop leaks and can no longer maintain proper level in the float bowl. Or, the float level could be out of adjustment. As for the air system, my old VFR had a dashpot operated air door on it that opened up somewhere around 6000rpm to allow more air in at higher engine speed. If your CBF has something like that, make sure the dashpot is working and that any vacuum line to it is leak free.
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Robby
Dirty Old Man



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PostPosted: 18:18 - 16 Feb 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am wondering about something float related, because the CB500 always had a problem with sticking floats. Usually if the carbs had been drained for any reason, they would piss fuel when they got filled up again and needed to be tapped with a screwdriver handle until they freed off and started working.

If it was my bike, I would be going through the carbs and looking for something being set wrong - needle height would be my first place to look, then float height. Also a possibility of shite clogging the emulsion tubes, seeing as it is happening right about where that bike is 40-60% power output. Torn diaphragm is always a possibility.

Or just something silly, like a jet has unscrewed itself or a needle clip has come off.

One thing I do know for sure of the Honda commuter range is that they can still run surprisingly well with major defects. My CB250RS ran fine with a seriously split inlet rubber, just popped a bit more on the overrun.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 21:38 - 16 Feb 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, linked twin diaphragm carbs by the looks of it, quite intimidating to a novice I suppose. Would balancing them be of help?
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Aibisi
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PostPosted: 21:03 - 17 Feb 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Easy-X wrote:
Yes, linked twin diaphragm carbs by the looks of it, quite intimidating to a novice I suppose. Would balancing them be of help?


This is exactly why I won't be trying to do it myself, I have ZERO experience with carburators and after looking into some videos online I decided I'll just get it checked at a shop or something before I screw it up Shocked , I'll update the situation here when I know whats wrong, because I've noticed there's actually one or two other posts online with quite a bit of people with the exact same problem but don't seem to have found a solution, since I am not sure I can link stuff here i'll just quote what the other person says on his post :

" I have tried the following so far...
- Fuel system cleaner as additive to fuel.
- Checked and cleaned air filter.
- Checked spark plugs and reset plug gaps with feeler gauges.
- Removed, checked and cleaned carbs. Diaphragms are ok. Needles don't show any damage or wear. Jets cleaned out with carb cleaner and compressed air.

After this it is still acting the same. "
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Courier265
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PostPosted: 16:14 - 20 Feb 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

38MPG? that's terrible, mine does between 50 and 60 MPG depending on the riding conditions.

New plugs and a bottle of RedEx might help, perhaps getting the shims checked, after I had the shims checked the bike did perform that much better. Shims only need to be checked every 50K.
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Robby
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PostPosted: 15:56 - 22 Feb 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

The only solution is to work through it until you find the problem.

Whilst valve clearances can have a small impact on how it runs, they don't tend to go that far out of spec and are one of those that people just suggest because it's routine servicing that gets ignored, its difficult, and expensive if someone else is doing it. The valves should be in spec, but I doubt they would cause this problem.

I think it's related to fuelling. Logically it should be down to running rich, but logic doesn't always work. An air leak can also cause problems like this, illogically. Good places to look are any vacuum hoses - they fall off, get pinched, get a hole bitten in them. Vacuum ports for carburettor balancing can also be a problem, if the plugs or caps for the ports are loose or missing.

It's even possible that this is an electrical problem, if 6k rpm is a spot where everything is just wrong to make a good spark and you have a bit of corrosion in the system making the job a little harder.

In short, small problems are hard to track down.
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