Help with rusty chain links please?

[BlackStallion]

I've been riding for 9 months now, and unfortunately i still don't have mechanic "know how"

My concern at the moment is some rusty spots on my chain, mainly on some links, but some in the rollers. I lube my chain once a week with Wurth High Performance Dry Chain Lube, and with my bike being a crosser style, a paddock stand just doesn't raise my rear wheel off the ground, so every time i lube my chain, it's just the (rather annoying) rolling forwards of the bike, and then spray, roll, spray etc...

I think i'm missing one side, because if you approach my bike the throttle side, and look at the chain, it's the only side which has rusty links, the clutch lever side has a nice fresh and clean silver/grey look to it. I'm guessing i just miss these odd spots, which are now becoming bright orangey brown rust.

Can someone give me a some advice into what i should do?

I'm a little worried my chain will snap, because i have a 140 mile journey to do this weekend, and the weather lately hasn't been helping. I'd like to remove the rust if i can, without having to remove the whole chain (i no the basics, but not that mechanically minded ) the chain has only done about 3000 miles, and apart from the rusty spots, looks in great condition.

I'm sure someone will be able to help, or atleast put my mind at ease.

Thanks in advance

[Vincent]

If it's just surface rust on the links, it won't be bad enough to cause the chain to break. Are you sure the chain is worth keeping anyway? Is there much sideways momement on it? It's always a good idea to clean the chain before sticking more lube on it - get rid of all that grit and other crud that wears away at the pins. Maybe it's time to invest in a new chain?

[neiloggy1]

yes id too say get a new chain. can pick em up fo 40 to 70 quid
depending whether or not you want an o ring chain.
sprockets are fairly cheap a set is about 30 quid.
good investment if you plan on keeping the bike
anyway if the chain has lasted this long cant see a few more mile making any dif as stated if surface rust no worries
but if me id renew its very easy...
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98 zx9r

[BlackStallion]

Cheers for the reply Vincent

It moves ever so slightly, but hardly at all. I'm glad it's surface rust, but i just think its to good of a chain to just get a new one. I should think i can get the surface rust off, then clean it all down and lube it.

I forgot to mention the fact i CLEAN and lube the chain once a week. I use petrol in a little bowl, a nice strong rag and an old toothbrush, i scrub away at the links and rollers, but i think it's automatic to scrub more the side your facing than the opposite site, thus why, rust is appearing.

I've found a chain for my bike on Startright Motorcycles, who are one of the best Hyosung dealers in the UK, bought off them before, they deliver quick. The chain costs £26.95, so i could get it, but i'm hoping someone can tell me how to get rid of the rust, because looking at it, i'm sure there's more life in it.

How much would it cost for a mechanic to fit my new chain?

[Vincent]

You need a good stout wire brush to get rid of the rust. However, it won't be long before it's back again. Be careful using petrol to clean it, if there are any rubber seals the petrol could rot them.

[neiloggy1]

mechanic to fit a chain nonono
just go onto youtube and type how to fit a splitlink or rivetlink

cut the old chain off or find the splitlink and remove it
if rivetlink just cut it off
wheel will need to be adjusted to fit new chain agian on youtube...
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98 zx9r

[BlackStallion]

What is the best stuff to use on it then? I've heard Kerosene is good, but i don't have any of that, Petrol seems to be the best bet, it gets rid of dirt nicely

I'll upload some pictures of my chain tomorrow, and if you can give me your honest opinion, then that would be great

[CptBlack]

[Vincent]

Aye, parrafin/kerosene is good for getting rid of all the old oil etc, but personaly, I wouldn't let it anywhere near an O ring chain or any chain with non metalic bushes etc. I very rarely have to nowadays as I use O and X ring chains but I used to bathe chains for a couple of days in engine oil to free off any stiff links. There are a few decent cleaners around, Wurth always seem to do good stuff. If you stick a pic up of the chain, do one of the rear sprocket too.

[BlackStallion]

Will do mate, i'll update the topic tomorrow

Thanks for the help guys

Neiloggy, you suggested youtube, and to be honest, i'd love to no how to do all this mechanical stuff on my bike, but i just don't. Only ever changed the spark plug, which i have to say was a chore, removal of fuel tank, cylinder head cover, seat, fairing, all for a fiddling little spark plug

I just watched this on youtube
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c5BAojcQq6o

It doesn't look hard as such, but really technical and confusing


I'd be afraid of fucking something up

[BlackStallion]

Could i just ask, what is the average mileage of a chain?

[Vincent]

[Vincent]

[Mark65]

I use 90w gear oil, wipe the chain with a old tea towel then squirt the gear oil on my fingers and rub into the chain or drip onto each link then rub into chain as long as all my o rings look wet its fine , i then wipe of excess with cloth. I do this every 3 days or after riding in the rain and it takes me about 15min to do, no rust on chain and adjusters only on the 2nd mark at 6400 miles, they moved half a mark in 5000 miles. And i dded a bit of moly powder to my gear oil for lubing the chain. sounds like a faff but its easy and i hardly have to clean my chain now, been a few months since i last used parrafin to clean it.

Mark
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07 Yamaha YBR125, 07 Honda CG125 , 15 CBR300R (Chocolate Crank, Deaded), 16 CB500FA, 19 Honda Forza 300, 70 Suzuki SV650

[BlackStallion]

[Vincent]

A worn sprocket can wear out a new chain quicker than normal yup. Also, cheap chains can work out more expensive in the long run. Not too noticeable on smaller bikes but worth remembering all the same.

[BlackStallion]

Right, i have some pictures, which should hopefully provide you with enough information to determine what i should do.

When i went to take these photos, i have to admit, it does appear to be surface rust.

My sprockets don't look that worn either, but that's my opinion, and i'm sure you guys will be able to tell.

Here are the photos:
https://i657.photobucket.com/albums/uu299/milkster125/P161209_1002.jpg

https://i657.photobucket.com/albums/uu299/milkster125/P161209_1003.jpg

https://i657.photobucket.com/albums/uu299/milkster125/P161209_1004.jpg

https://i657.photobucket.com/albums/uu299/milkster125/P161209_100601.jpg

As you can see, the wheel side of the chain is rusty, but there's not a single rusty link on the other side.

I appreciate the help guys

[Vincent]

The chain doesn't look too bad, (rust wise), but, from the pic, the sprocket looks fairly knacked. The teeth on the sprocket wear on one side and over time become "hooked". When new, each tooth should have a flat portion on the tip. once this has gone through wear, it's time to replace.

[shadowbiker]

+1 Sprokets do look worn in the picture, the chain itself looks good ( just normal wear and tear )

[ashwell-09]

Just chuck the bike up on a few breeze blocks underneath the engine casing or get a mate to wheel it forward slowly so you can give it a propper lubing up. Make sure you clean the chain too with propper cleaner.
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Riding as fast as you can sounds like a good speed to me
1988 Yamaha DT 50 > 2004 Motorhispania RYZ 50 > 1988 Honda CBR 400

[BlackStallion]

I think that picture of the sprockets is a bit deceiving, and the teeth do appear to be worn and pointy.

The thing is, i don't want to have to get new a new chain and sprockets, i really can't afford it at the moment. I no with some Muc Off Brake and Chain Cleaner, i can get a brush in there, and the rust will peel off and the chain will look as good as new

The sprocket however does look worn, and i can't just buy a new sprocket, it will ruin my chain...

Mmmmmm, might have to keep the bike off the road for a bit until i get the money.

Just rang my the Hyosung dealer who i got the bike off, they're going to ring me up tomorrow and give me a price for the chain and sprocket kit, and for them to fit it

I wish i knew how to do it myself, but unfortunately i haven't even got the time to look into it, but i'll ask Dave Wickes (Hyosung mechainc) if i can watch him change it over, he's a nice bloke, i know he'll let me, that will give me an idea for the future.

He mentioned pattern sprockets? Any idea what these are? He said they'd be cheaper for me?

[Vincent]

Pattern sprockets should be ok. The front ones can be a bit softer than the original ones sometimes but they're usualy a lot cheaper. If you're on a budget, (like most of us nowadays), you really need to learn how to do some of the easier maintanance jobs yourself You could save enough in this case to get a good quality chain If you can get yerself down to Cambridge, i don't mind helping out.

[BlackStallion]

[stirlinggaz]

hi,
oem parts are what the biker manufactrer supplies with the bike.
they also recommend you fit the same parts (not that they are any better, just that the bike maker usually has a deal with them, like sponsorship or even actually own the parts company!)
pattern parts are just replacement parts that are not oem.
usually a bit cheaper.
heres a fact, on a particular bike the maker recommend a DID chain & sprocket set.
cost £79.99.
it actually comes with JT sprockets.
bought sperately = front sprocket £4.98, rear £13.99, & did chain £37.99.
strange huh?
oh & changing chains & sprockets, really is a doddle.
cheers,
GAZ

[Ste]

How many miles have the chain and sprockets done? Is it at the limit of the wheel adjustment?

You've said in another thread that you do 30-40 miles per week, I'd say that as long as it's got oil or chain lube on it then you don't need to be cleaning it weekly.