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Oil and these cold temperatures

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silky666
Captain Rulebook



Joined: 28 Aug 2006
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PostPosted: 15:31 - 06 Jan 2010    Post subject: Oil and these cold temperatures Reply with quote

Probably my first ever post in the 'workshop' area.
So be gentle with me Smile

R6 sat in garage for the past 2 months - not ridden.
Trickle charge on for battery (learnt that lesson last year).

Anyway, been starting it every now and then to make sure the engine warms up.
Went to do it this morning and the oil light stayed on ?
Turned the engine off ... and the oil light stayed on still.

Could it be the cold weather making the oil too thick ?
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crackpotterpi...
Renault 5 Driver



Joined: 15 Nov 2009
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PostPosted: 15:42 - 06 Jan 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

no as cold engine oil will produce a higher pressure than warm oil,maybe faulty switch, check you level if your happy with that,check the wiring going to the oil switch if thats all ok,get a oil pressure gauge into the pressure switch port and check the pressure if thats ok the switch is knackered Smile
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Kickstart
The Oracle



Joined: 04 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 15:45 - 06 Jan 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Most Yamahas use an oil level sensor rather than an oil pressure sensor. Check the oil level manually.

However if the oil is really thick (from being cold) then it will take longer to return to the sump from the head. That could create an artificially low oil level in the sump.

But first thing to do is a crackpotterpig says and check the level.

All the best

Keith
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yen_powell
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Joined: 22 Jun 2008
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PostPosted: 15:55 - 06 Jan 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kickstart wrote:
Hi

Most Yamahas use an oil level sensor rather than an oil pressure sensor.
Both my FJ1200s would put the oil light on when riding up a particularly steep hill in Bishops Stortford. The first time made my heart stop, something about a redlight on a dash that does that to me.
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Blue_SV650S
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Joined: 27 Nov 2008
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PostPosted: 16:48 - 06 Jan 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kickstart wrote:
Hi

Most Yamahas use an oil level sensor rather than an oil pressure sensor. Check the oil level manually.

However if the oil is really thick (from being cold) then it will take longer to return to the sump from the head. That could create an artificially low oil level in the sump.

But first thing to do is a crackpotterpig says and check the level.

All the best

Keith


Wot he said, its a level sensor.

But I'd question the benefits of starting it for startings sake every few weeks anyway ... you are probably doing more harm than good ... Thumbs Down
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Kickstart
The Oracle



Joined: 04 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 16:59 - 06 Jan 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Tend to agree with you there. Regularly starting it is just putting on a load of extra cold starts and associated wear, and keeping the exhaust topped up with condensation to make it rot more quickly.

All the best

Keith
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Blue_SV650S
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PostPosted: 17:13 - 06 Jan 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kickstart wrote:
Hi

Tend to agree with you there. Regularly starting it is just putting on a load of extra cold starts and associated wear, and keeping the exhaust topped up with condensation to make it rot more quickly.

All the best

Keith


Isn't it some really high percentage of all engine wear is caused at start-up??? edit: very quick google https://www.beslub.com/engwear.htm

As for condensation, it is not just the 'zorst either, the crankcase, rocker cover and oil all get skuzzy too!! Thumbs Down
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Kickstart
The Oracle



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PostPosted: 17:18 - 06 Jan 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

It is a silly amount of wear at startup, but I suspect some of the claims for it are the work lubricant company marketing departments.

All the best

Keith
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Blue_SV650S
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Joined: 27 Nov 2008
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PostPosted: 17:22 - 06 Jan 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kickstart wrote:
Hi

It is a silly amount of wear at startup, but I suspect some of the claims for it are the work lubricant company marketing departments.

All the best

Keith


Even if we take it down to 60-70%, it is still worth avoiding if possible ... it is certainly MUCH worse than simply leaving the bike in a garage on an optimate un-started for the winter months! Wink

This time of year, with thick oil, the problem can only be exacerbated too ...
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Kickstart
The Oracle



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PostPosted: 17:54 - 06 Jan 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Certainly.

Might be worth cranking the engine over slowly and gently to make sure everything is well covered in oil, but doing that with the starter button would add in the petrol.

Probably the best thing to do though is an oil change before putting the bike away. Gets rid of the oil (contaminated with acids from combustion) rather than leaving it to etch the internal engine surfaces.

All the best

Keith
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 00:16 - 07 Jan 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the bike has a sight glass rather than a dipstick. A quick and dirty check of the oil feed system is to look at the oil in the glass as you press the starter.

The oil level should drop as soon as you hit the button. This means the oil is being picked out of the sump and pumped to the top end. Doesn't tell you how much pressure but certainly means the oil pump itself is working.

You shouldn't see temperatures in this country where the thickness of the oil reaches a point where it puts the engine at risk. I've seen diesel wax up on one occasion in my life. This is roughly the same temperature where normal engine oil takes on the properties of treacle.

That said, you probably have modern synthetic oil in that bike which you really don't need to worry about unless you are operating on the polar ice caps.
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Blue_SV650S
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PostPosted: 10:14 - 07 Jan 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
If the bike has a sight glass rather than a dipstick. A quick and dirty check of the oil feed system is to look at the oil in the glass as you press the starter.

The oil level should drop as soon as you hit the button. This means the oil is being picked out of the sump and pumped to the top end. Doesn't tell you how much pressure but certainly means the oil pump itself is working.


I think that could be a slightly misleading indicator ... when all the gears and the clutch basket start turning, they will 'water wheel' a large quantity of oil, especially if it is high viscousness (cold). Therefore you will still get a significant drop in sight glass oil level even if no oil is being pumped via the pump itself.

I suspect it is in the great part this water wheel effect that makes silky666's level light come on ...
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stevo as b4
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Joined: 17 Jul 2003
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PostPosted: 22:57 - 07 Jan 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I left my ZX6R in a Garage for 2years. Embarassed

Only after i had sold it, i was told that the next owner had noticed that the bike seemed to puff out a light amount of blue smoke, which it never did in all the time i owned it. It only had 8k on the clock, and im convinced that leaving the engine sat still and not run for 2years, caused at least one or more of the rings to stick, and thus the high oil consumption. I always changed the oil every 2000m, and used fully synth, so i think i looked after it like a baby. But the storing it without running it for that time possibly ruined the engine?
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