Thinking of upgrading my brakes.

[warped one]

The brakes on the GT are well pretty shocking compaired to most.

So I have been thinking of upgrading the lot, from the master cylinder to the calipers.
May idea's so far are:-

Master cylinder - Radial brembo,
Lines - HEL braided lines,
Calipers - Brembo from the busa,
Disks - Galfer wavey,
Leavers - Titax shorty

Anybody done a full system upgrade? What did you use?

Warped
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amnesia - Never in the history of usernames has one been more accurate. Warped indeed. You sir are a fecking oddball.

[Blau Zedong]

[Kickstart]

Hi

Another vote for trying decent pads first.

What is it that you don't like about the brakes now? Too much lever pressure? Dead feeling? Fade easily? Spongy?

All the best

Keith
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Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[warped one]

They just start to feel lumpy and horrible after a few tight corners.

I never really did find them that good, and have had a few times where it felt like they were not there at all.

Warped
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amnesia - Never in the history of usernames has one been more accurate. Warped indeed. You sir are a fecking oddball.

[Fisty]

I have fitted:-

Brembo 19x20 mc
Galfer Wavey discs
Hel braided lines
Brembo pads
Flip up lever.

And without a doubt they are the best mods I have made to my bike. I made the same mods to my zx9r and could stand it on its nose.
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Quietly and consistently taking the piss.
TL1000R | Hayabusa | ZXR400 | TL1000S | Bandit 400 V
Fatter and faster than Fret

[Kickstart]

Hi

Mmmm, not sure. "A few tight corners" suggests after braking hard a few times. That suggests the brakes fading and the most likely cause of that is old brake fluid, followed by dodgy pads. On the other hand for that to make the "lumpy" would suggest the disks are warping (and I would doubt they would return to unwarped when parked up).

Other thing that can make brakes feel dodgy (maybe lumpy) is wear between the lever and the master cylinder piston. As the piston moves the lever needs to slide over the end of it a small amount. It the piston is rough at the end then it can't slide smoothly. Similarly if they are sliding calipers then the pins they slide on can start to stick.

Still say try new pads and also clean up the calipers and bleed them through. Will cost less than any of the things on your list earlier.

All the best

Keith
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Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[The Tot]

I gave my nissins a full clean (didn't strip the calipers down to change the seals though) and fitted HEL braided hoses and fresh fluid. The lever was rock hard but the braking was still progressive and controllable. Spend a weekend getting some decent pads, HEL hoses and a clean and it'll make SOME sort of a difference. Not much point spending TOO much money.
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The Tot 2019 Z1000SX - 2007 R1
Never argue with autism

[Wafer_Thin_Ham]

[MarJay]

Someone's got a case of shiney shopping syndrome. The first step to combatting this affliction is to acknowledge you have it. Take me for example; I'm in remission and haven't bought anything shiney for my car or bike (or bought a vehicle) for months and months.

Then, for a bad example, take Jay12329 who cannot resist buying unsuitable motorcycles and expensive cameras.

Please, give generously to aid the victims of this terrible disease.

www.Ineedmoneyformynewcar.com
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British beauty: Triumph Street Triple R; Loony stroker: KR1S; Track fun: GSXR750 L1; Commuter Missile: GSX-S1000F
Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.

[warped one]

[Wafer_Thin_Ham]