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Caliper seal roll?

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TUG
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PostPosted: 00:08 - 20 Jan 2010    Post subject: Caliper seal roll? Reply with quote

My SRAD brakes lose pressure on their own, with the bike not moving over a few hours, but i don't know why, Its the well known problem with TOKICO calipers, and tbh other than stripping them for the 15th time (i fucking shit you not) and cleaning all the red grease out an seating them 'dry' i have no other explination for them being out of whack. I'll try re-seating the fork lowers and check the runout on the discs on sunday.
I'm just making a record and asking to see if others have experianced this.
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lonner
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PostPosted: 16:44 - 20 Jan 2010    Post subject: Re: Caliper seal roll? Reply with quote

XlonewolfX wrote:
My SRAD brakes lose pressure on their own, with the bike not moving over a few hours, but i don't know why, Its the well known problem with TOKICO calipers, and tbh other than stripping them for the 15th time (i fucking shit you not) and cleaning all the red grease out an seating them 'dry' i have no other explination for them being out of whack. I'll try re-seating the fork lowers and check the runout on the discs on sunday.
I'm just making a record and asking to see if others have experianced this.




i think you need to use all new seals and do the job propperly as 15 times must be a world record on a 10yr old bike.

or get them done by a pro.

but if you are stuck you could try this

if there is now fluid loss its air and its most likely at the mc so crack the banjo and pull the lever hold at bar and tighten it should improve

also try this loosen the bleed nipple one caliper at a time half a turn and one pull on the lever hold at bar and re-tighten nipple.

that will get shut of any small pocket of air in the calipers.

dont pump the lever just one full pull to the bar and hold.!!

repeat the procedure a couple of times if you need to as it should get shut of the trapped air

hth
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TUG
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PostPosted: 19:45 - 20 Jan 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm sorry if a come across a bit brash here, but i've rebuilt brakes many times on a whole list of bikes, I've done everything you listed to no avail.
Aparrantly what i'm experiancing is Seal roll you can see the pistons return once the lever is released. Its got brand new seals in it, brand new braided hoses and a K5 radial master cylinder. So i've eliminated everything bar the calipers and discs. Thumbs Up
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Rockhopper
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PostPosted: 20:15 - 20 Jan 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

The seals are meant to pull the pistons back i thought?

What exactly are the symptoms you are experiencing?
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TUG
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PostPosted: 20:18 - 20 Jan 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

To an extent yes but not pull the piston back to a point where you have to pump the brakes again like your bleeding them to "seat" the pads to the disc again.
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finpos
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PostPosted: 20:36 - 20 Jan 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try OEM seals if you are not using them already, also possibly new pistons.

f.
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TUG
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PostPosted: 21:02 - 20 Jan 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

finpos wrote:
Try OEM seals if you are not using them already, also possibly new pistons.

f.

Brand new suzuki seals, pistons maybe, i'll keep that in mind should me "dry" seating the seals not work.
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MaybeGuy
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PostPosted: 21:07 - 20 Jan 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

ive always lubed the seals with brake fluid. You could try tears.
Any corrosion on the pistons?
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Blue_SV650S wrote: it was a sh1te wheelie, but it proves that he can get it up in 3rd and can do angles. In summery, mattsprattuk is a gobby little sh1tebag, dopehead tw4t, but sadly for all of us, he probably isn't THAT full of sh1te!! Mr. Green
Kickstart wrote: Hi I tend to agree with Matt. All the best Keith
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TUG
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PostPosted: 21:18 - 20 Jan 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

mattsprattuk wrote:
ive always lubed the seals with brake fluid. You could try tears.
Any corrosion on the pistons?

Not that i saw just dirt, which wiped off, the seats where quite corroded. And i might just try tears matt, but won't the brake fluid absorb them? Laughing
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MaybeGuy
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PostPosted: 21:38 - 20 Jan 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

they could be out of spec i suppose. crack out the haynes and a micrometer and see how they measure up.

seals in the right way?
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Blue_SV650S wrote: it was a sh1te wheelie, but it proves that he can get it up in 3rd and can do angles. In summery, mattsprattuk is a gobby little sh1tebag, dopehead tw4t, but sadly for all of us, he probably isn't THAT full of sh1te!! Mr. Green
Kickstart wrote: Hi I tend to agree with Matt. All the best Keith
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TUG
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PostPosted: 21:43 - 20 Jan 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

mattsprattuk wrote:
they could be out of spec i suppose. crack out the haynes and a micrometer and see how they measure up.

seals in the right way?

I tried to find the edge but it didn't seem like there was one, i could pull them out an try them the other way but doubt it will make much of a difference if im honest matt. Can't hurt to try.
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MaybeGuy
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PostPosted: 21:49 - 20 Jan 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

well theres 8 pots in total, so dont turn them all around as that would be pretty thick, as statistically some of them have to be right.

find the edge and make sure its in right. fattest edge of the seal goes in first.
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Blue_SV650S wrote: it was a sh1te wheelie, but it proves that he can get it up in 3rd and can do angles. In summery, mattsprattuk is a gobby little sh1tebag, dopehead tw4t, but sadly for all of us, he probably isn't THAT full of sh1te!! Mr. Green
Kickstart wrote: Hi I tend to agree with Matt. All the best Keith
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 23:50 - 20 Jan 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

mattsprattuk wrote:
find the edge and make sure its in right. fattest edge of the seal goes in first.


Now this one you REALLY have to explain?

<hint> I've sold somewhere in the region of hundreds of seals in the last couple of years and they are all square section. In fact the 27mm seals used in these particular calipers are square section, there is no high edge, there isn't supposed to be a high edge</hint>

Sounds remarkably like the calipers are fĂșcked to me by your description. If the corrosion is very heavy around the seal wells they enlarge as you remove the corroded material and can cause the symptoms you describe but it would have to be very heavy. Any corrosion this heavy though would be obvious as would the damaged caliper but I've never seen one that bad.

I would personally look at the discs first and check the run out on them as the symptoms you give are those of a slightly warped disc which would be exacerbated by having calipers in good order.
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smegballs
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PostPosted: 13:00 - 21 Jan 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:
mattsprattuk wrote:
find the edge and make sure its in right. fattest edge of the seal goes in first.


Now this one you REALLY have to explain?

<hint> I've sold somewhere in the region of hundreds of seals in the last couple of years and they are all square section. In fact the 27mm seals used in these particular calipers are square section, there is no high edge, there isn't supposed to be a high edge</hint>



I can never find the high edge of the seal whenever I look... However, on a few bikes I've had brand new caliper seals that look to be square section leak one way round and seal the other. Most confusing!
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bladerunner
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PostPosted: 02:04 - 22 Jan 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

if the pistons are pulling back over time with the bike not moving..erm HELLO how can that be disk run out? I know the probs your having Ben..took me a fair while to get mine sorted and tbh if your taking the seals out and turning them round....not sure how well they like it happening 15 times unless your uber careful and keep them wet. I always clean out behind the seals and make sure that's spotless as well as using dot 4 safe grease to prevent any initial drag! Dont forget that they might need a bit of bedding in. i usually do this with the caliper off the wheel ,pump the pistons out a good few times and slide them back.

Only other real issue is blocked breather in the MC cap or the such!!
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 10:09 - 22 Jan 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

bladerunner wrote:
if the pistons are pulling back over time with the bike not moving..erm HELLO how can that be disk run out?


That was very gay.

Unless there is a vacuum in the system the pistons can't be pulled back. Much more likely to be disc run out or a leak somewhere letting air in.
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