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Will araldite work on a sump?

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Damon
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PostPosted: 21:27 - 24 Mar 2010    Post subject: Will araldite work on a sump? Reply with quote

Hi all,

I have a slight problem on the R1. I found a small (0.5cm length) hairline crack by one of the mounting points on the bottom of my sump plate. It seeps oil slowly, but its enough to warrent fixing.

I have already drained the oil and cleaned up the surface ready for fixing. My question is, could I use araldite metal epoxy to fix the crack and be done with it? Or should it be replaced? I would take a picture of the crack, but you can barely see it by eye, nevermind a camera...

Cheers all,

Damon
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 21:36 - 24 Mar 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

JB weld is fully oil and petrol resistant once fully cured, but I don't know about araldite. Either way you'll have to remove and clean the casting before application quite thoroughly.

A better option would be to have someone weld over the crack.
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pepperami
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PostPosted: 21:49 - 24 Mar 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

What caused the crack in the first place?
did someone over-tighten a bolt?
is it a crappy sump-pan?
is the engine vibrating excesseivly?
will the crack continue to get bigger the longer you leave it?

if theres nothing wrong with the way the bike is running then i would replace it IMHO

i have tried using Areldite on metal before and i was`nt that impressed...... but thats just my experiance
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Damon
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PostPosted: 22:01 - 24 Mar 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

It looks as if its been repaired before so im guessing the repair has just cracked slightly. The thing is though, one of the bolts has been welded into the repair. So to get the the sump plate off I will have to destroy the plate and grind off the bolt. Rolling Eyes PITA
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map
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PostPosted: 22:09 - 24 Mar 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Providing it's clean/grease free then I'd say the liquid metal stuff should be ok for a temporary repair.

I used it on a broken brake caliper bracket as a get me home repair.
Lasted a couple of months until I got a replacement from breaker. Was still ok when I took it off, it's now in the spares draw.

HTH Thumbs Up
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 22:10 - 24 Mar 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

A steel bolt will not be welded to an alloy sump, so you should not have to destroy the sump plate.

Most cracked sumps are a result of contact with the ground. No1 cause is heavy-landed wheelies IMO.
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Damon
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PostPosted: 22:23 - 24 Mar 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
A steel bolt will not be welded to an alloy sump, so you should not have to destroy the sump plate.

Most cracked sumps are a result of contact with the ground. No1 cause is heavy-landed wheelies IMO.


I have a feeling the previous repair was chemical metal as opposed to actual welding.

Im starting to think this bike has a some scary past. Nevermind
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 12:59 - 25 Mar 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have used steel epoxy putty on a sump that was riddled with holes.

I was under my car picking rust off the sump when a rust flake came off revealing a hole and pouring hot engine oil down my neck... not pleasant

The sump needs to be rediculously grease/oil free before you begin and you need to key the surface so itll stick.

I had better resutls with the steel epoxy paste with a seperate hardener thah I did with putty - mix up loads spread it on thick and even and hope you covered the hole properly - dont be tempted to push it into the crack or else you might get epoxy bits floating in ur oil.

Once it has cured for a week or so, de grease it again and give it a coat of engine enamel - seemed to do the trick for me

This was about 2 years ago - worked well so far Very Happy
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 14:21 - 25 Mar 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just buy a new one that aren't dear.

https://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Yamaha-R1-4XV-Sump-Pan_W0QQitemZ120548055054QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Motorcycle_Parts?hash=item1c1139580e

I seem to rememeber someone on a triumph forum only paying £40 for a brand new one from a dealer.
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supZ
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PostPosted: 15:10 - 25 Mar 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

i've had some big old cracks on sumps before.. got em welded for £20-30.

no probs.

id rather get it done properly than stick a load of 'glue' on it
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Tim..
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PostPosted: 15:14 - 25 Mar 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Damon wrote:
It looks as if its been repaired before so im guessing the repair has just cracked slightly. The thing is though, one of the bolts has been welded into the repair. So to get the the sump plate off I will have to destroy the plate and grind off the bolt. Rolling Eyes PITA


Nice! Rolling Eyes

If its been 'fixed' before and broken again i would be inclined to spend the time getting it off and buying a new one. Then you know it wont happen again. As has already been said I dont think they're that dear.

Tim
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 15:48 - 25 Mar 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

supZ wrote:
i've had some big old cracks on sumps before.. got em welded for £20-30.

no probs.

id rather get it done properly than stick a load of 'glue' on it


Or buy a new one like in my link for £25, which I think he has Laughing
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swiftb
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PostPosted: 16:41 - 25 Mar 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
Most cracked sumps are a result of contact with the ground. No1 cause is heavy-landed wheelies IMO.


Really? You would have to seriously land heavy from a wheely to smash through the lower fairings, clout the exhaust pipes - hard enough for them to contact the sump and damage it surely??
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 17:09 - 25 Mar 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you can get the sump for £20 as people have posted, do that!

Itll cost you £5+ for the putty

My car sump was £180 for OEM or £120 for a dodgy chinese copy.... £5 on some glue seemed like a better option on a car worth £500 Very Happy
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Handsome
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PostPosted: 17:33 - 25 Mar 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

This...https://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav.jsp?action=detail&fh_secondid=9726445&fh_view_size=10&fh_location=%2f%2fcatalog01%2fen_GB&fh_search=Epoxy+metal&fh_eds=%c3%9f&fh_refview=search&ts=1269534981802&isSearch=true...worked on mine...

I rate it... Thumbs Up
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supZ
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PostPosted: 17:37 - 25 Mar 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

chris-red wrote:
supZ wrote:
i've had some big old cracks on sumps before.. got em welded for £20-30.

no probs.

id rather get it done properly than stick a load of 'glue' on it


Or buy a new one like in my link for £25, which I think he has Laughing


classic internet reply there Smile

i didnt discount buying a new one, i just said i got mine welded when i found a crack.

my sumps are closer to £170s worth so spending £25 on a weld makes sense for me Wink everyones got their own situtions..
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cloric_tzr
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PostPosted: 17:40 - 25 Mar 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

DonnyBrago wrote:
If you can get the sump for £20 as people have posted, do that!

Itll cost you £5+ for the putty

My car sump was £180 for OEM or £120 for a dodgy chinese copy.... £5 on some glue seemed like a better option on a car worth £500 Very Happy


scrap yard mate £5.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 18:43 - 25 Mar 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

swiftb38 wrote:
Pete. wrote:
Most cracked sumps are a result of contact with the ground. No1 cause is heavy-landed wheelies IMO.


Really? You would have to seriously land heavy from a wheely to smash through the lower fairings, clout the exhaust pipes - hard enough for them to contact the sump and damage it surely??


Yes but it does happen. I've damaged my sump from wheelying during dragracing on an un-lowered bike and I know people who've smashed them completely.
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Damon
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PostPosted: 21:02 - 25 Mar 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the link, but that is already ended. The cheapest I have seen them go for is £60 ish second hand. Araldite is the answer in the short term whilst I try and find a decent replacement.

Thanks for the replies. Karma
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 22:05 - 25 Mar 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Damon wrote:
Thanks for the link, but that is already ended. The cheapest I have seen them go for is £60 ish second hand. Araldite is the answer in the short term whilst I try and find a decent replacement.

Thanks for the replies. Karma


It hadn't when I posted it, I thought you had bought it!
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Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 22:32 - 25 Mar 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:

scrap yard mate £5



Looked, my car is so shit even scrap yards dont break em Cool
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BanditsHigh
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PostPosted: 22:53 - 25 Mar 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Damon wrote:
Thanks for the link, but that is already ended. The cheapest I have seen them go for is £60 ish second hand. Araldite is the answer in the short term whilst I try and find a decent replacement.

Thanks for the replies. Karma


Araldite will soften with engine heat ... don't bugger about with glue, get it welded and have it sorted once and for all Thumbs Up
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Handsome
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PostPosted: 18:53 - 26 Mar 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

ADAM79 wrote:


That's got a max temp of 150, if your bike's getting that hot it's going to blow up anyway, since I've used it on mine it hasn't budged, moved, cracked, nothing... Thumbs Up
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Damon
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PostPosted: 20:57 - 26 Mar 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I gave the guy in the ebay add a call and it turns out they have another one laying about. Offered £25 + £10 postage. Bargain price. Thanks for the link Chris.

I have done the araldite repair and it seems to be holding up for the moment. It should hold until I replace it.

Does anyone know where to get a reasonably priced gasket from?

Thanks, Karma for all
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andybon
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PostPosted: 18:54 - 27 Mar 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do wemoto not have the gaskets Or even ebay?

If not a local bike shop should have one in or even get one for you!
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