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how does my restrictor work

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mrr1
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PostPosted: 21:04 - 12 Mar 2010    Post subject: how does my restrictor work Reply with quote

evenin' all

purely out of mechanical inquisitiveness I decided to take a look at my 33 bhp restriction kit on my 600 fazer - just to understand a little better how it all works you understand. I have the carb body sort - not the good old washer between the carb & the manifold type. According to the destructions the restriction kit consists of a different spring, different needles and some throttle stop "plates". I've stripped the carbs out but can't see for the life of me how the plates stop any throttle valve movement. The needles go into the slide body and have about 3- 4 mm of movement into the slide body before the inner spring bottoms out against the inner plug / clip.Can anyone explain how this thing works so that in a year or so's time I can safely remove it??
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That_Hornet
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PostPosted: 12:46 - 13 Mar 2010    Post subject: Re: how does my restrictor work Reply with quote

mrr1 wrote:
.Can anyone explain how this thing works so that in a year or so's time I can safely remove it??


Laughing
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mrr1
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PostPosted: 21:31 - 13 Mar 2010    Post subject: Re: how does my restrictor work Reply with quote

ThatHornet wrote:
mrr1 wrote:
.Can anyone explain how this thing works so that in a year or so's time I can safely remove it??


Laughing



smegzactly.

come on chaps.....

there's a flat thin plate that sits under the rubber diaphragm thingy in the carb. It seems to cover a hole that goes down the back of the carb body towards the main air flow through the carb - could it be reducing the pressure under the diaphragm so the needle doesn't get drawn as high as it normally would?

Also the main carb springs - they're tough old beasts that feel like they've come from an old land rovers suspension. Again if these were stronger than normal I can see how the needle wouldn't rise as much.

Finally the needle - its a different spec from the original....


I'm assuming that the spring, needle and plate each have a restricting effect on the carb and that removing / swapping one by one would have a gradual impact on getting the bike back to full power or would leaving the spring & needle in but taking the plate out totally bugger the bike?
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 22:03 - 13 Mar 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

The bits on the slide would, I expect, just be there to adjust the fueling (and surprised it would need it).

All the best

Keith
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mrr1
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PostPosted: 23:02 - 13 Mar 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks keith - am I right about the thin metal plate? Is it there to stop the pressure under the diaphragm building up & lifting the pin higher?
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 23:10 - 13 Mar 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

If there is still a hole then I would expect it ti still rise just as far, just probably change the speed it rises.

All the best

Keith
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mrr1
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PostPosted: 02:19 - 14 Mar 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

this is a view of one of the carbs with the plate in & out
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 11:03 - 15 Mar 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Other than those not being the same carb ( Wink ), not sure. All I can see that doing is shimming up the slide slightly.

All the best

Keith
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mrr1
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PostPosted: 22:35 - 15 Mar 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

oh yes - sorry for not pointing that out - of course they're not the same carb.........

the hypothetical plate in the hypothetical carb appears to block the two hypothetical holes to the upper right. Once this hypothetical plate has been taken out the hypothetical bike seems to rev much more freely and very happily hits 10k - 12k rpm in 2nd & 3rd gear (hypothetically). Thumbs Up
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 23:00 - 15 Mar 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Think that won't make a great difference. The vacuum from the intake needs to be transferred above the diaphragm so that it lifts, and can't see that stopping that vacuum being transferred.

All the best

Keith
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mrr1
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PostPosted: 13:56 - 16 Mar 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks keith. all i know is that the plate out takes about a second and a half off the 0-60 time. The spring is a real toughie - definitely not the thin delicate sort I'd have expected - I can easily see how a stronger spring would change how the slide rises (or, rather, doesn't)
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 14:00 - 16 Mar 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Stronger spring will affect how far it rises, playing with the holes for the air to get through will affect how quickly it rises (but given long enough the pressure / vacuum will eventually get there).

All the best

Keith
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mrr1
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PostPosted: 22:53 - 16 Mar 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

that makes total sense.

In terms of spring type how critical is it that a "genuine yamaha" spring is used? I'm loathe to pay a tenner (or more) per spring.
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 23:00 - 16 Mar 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Pretty critical. Be difficult to find another spring the same.

To be honest I would be inclined to keep an eye out for a cheap set of carbs on Ebay.

All the best

Keith
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