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Reliability and engine work

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Samsbike
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Joined: 16 Jan 2016
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PostPosted: 11:48 - 28 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reliability and engine work Reply with quote
My bike has had some engine work - basically high lift cams and shorter stacks, for more power.

Apparently its got around 10% more everywhere - should I be concerned about long term reliability provided I stick to the schedule?

thanks
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P.addy
Red Rocket



Joined: 14 Feb 2008
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PostPosted: 13:58 - 28 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote
I'd like to see photos of said work.
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Polarbear
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Joined: 24 Feb 2007
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PostPosted: 14:25 - 28 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote
I don't understand why anyone would buy a modified bike unless they know exactly what has been done, what the effects could be and unless they specifically want those modifications.

Cans, dogleg levers etc. fine but engine work?

Mr. Honda/Yamaha/Triumph didn't spend a fortune on R&D for the fun of it.
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Pete.
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Joined: 22 Aug 2006
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PostPosted: 19:29 - 28 Jan 2016    Post subject: Re: Reliability and engine work Reply with quote
Samsbike wrote:
My bike has had some engine work - basically high lift cams and shorter stacks, for more power.

Apparently its got around 10% more everywhere - should I be concerned about long term reliability provided I stick to the schedule?

thanks


No you should ask for before and after dyno printouts.
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stevo as b4
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Joined: 17 Jul 2003
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PostPosted: 20:15 - 28 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote
I kind of agree with Polarbear to a point, as for a normal every day get me to work and back vehicle, engine tuning is definitely Unnecessary and possibly a liability too.

I don't follow this advice tho, but thinking about it I don't have any every day usable commuter vehicles anyway, and don't much fancy owning one.

I bought my 2nd Rover already modified more towards track day use, with a partially stripped interior and it's on its 3rd engine now, that I don't know the full spec of in detail. For example I've no idea of the compression ratio other than its lower than 8:1, or the exact cam profile or how they've been timed up. Its got a super heavy duty race clutch that's not at all road friendly, as the previous uprated clutch blew to bits at 22psi. Im just messing with it and hoping to make it tolerable for sunny day Road use, but it'll never be a nice car to drive everyday.
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Polarbear
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Joined: 24 Feb 2007
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PostPosted: 22:28 - 28 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote
stevo as b4 wrote:
I kind of agree with Polarbear to a point, as for a normal every day get me to work and back vehicle, engine tuning is definitely Unnecessary and possibly a liability too.

I don't follow this advice tho, but thinking about it I don't have any every day usable commuter vehicles anyway, and don't much fancy owning one.

I bought my 2nd Rover already modified more towards track day use, with a partially stripped interior and it's on its 3rd engine now, that I don't know the full spec of in detail. For example I've no idea of the compression ratio other than its lower than 8:1, or the exact cam profile or how they've been timed up. Its got a super heavy duty race clutch that's not at all road friendly, as the previous uprated clutch blew to bits at 22psi. Im just messing with it and hoping to make it tolerable for sunny day Road use, but it'll never be a nice car to drive everyday.


My point is more don't buy one rather than don't do it yourself. You have no idea how well or badly any engine work has been done. If you are going mod it, start with a bog standard machine first.

However, If I want a more powerful bike I'll buy Busa rather than tune a Stripple. Wink
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Pigeon
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Joined: 27 Sep 2012
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PostPosted: 22:47 - 28 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote
Your bike is a Street Triple yes?

Were the cams just a Daytona swap?

In which case, depending on which year the ST is and which the Daytona's are, as to whether or not the valves, valve springs and possibly pistons were all made from posher stuff in the Daytona to handle the cams and their profiles.

I can't recall, but one range of years was ok just to drop the cams in. Another set of years it was a bit of a risk, because the rest of the ST wasn't meant to take it.

In reality, you'll probably be ok. But it would be good to know exact details and have something (photo's, invoices) to back it up.
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Wafer_Thin_Ham
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Joined: 18 Nov 2005
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PostPosted: 21:26 - 29 Jan 2016    Post subject: Re: Reliability and engine work Reply with quote
Samsbike wrote:
My bike has had some engine work - basically high lift cams and shorter stacks, for more power.

Apparently its got around 10% more everywhere - should I be concerned about long term reliability provided I stick to the schedule?

thanks


You've said "apparently" which leads me to believe you're not sure if this has even been done.

Personally velocity stacks = not an engine mod, so meh.

High lift cams, I'd get some from Kent, Yoshi, or someone that knew their shit, and then get it remapped to suit. I also assume you're running a high flow filter and full race system, or you're largely wasting your time.

Would I buy a bike with that stuff done? Only if I had receipts to prove it, and the person I believed the person I was buying from (you can usually tell a billy bullshitter a mile off).
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Kickstart
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Joined: 04 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 21:40 - 29 Jan 2016    Post subject: Re: Reliability and engine work Reply with quote
Samsbike wrote:
My bike has had some engine work - basically high lift cams and shorter stacks, for more power.

Apparently its got around 10% more everywhere - should I be concerned about long term reliability provided I stick to the schedule?

thanks


Depends how much you use the extra power and what has been done. Some tuning work can improve reliability (eg, stronger rods, etc).

Higher lift cams might stress things a touch more (and might make it less tolerant of being over revved), but unless the valve train on your bike is a weak point unlikely to be an issue. But doubt this alone would give you much more (if any) power.

Intake trumpets work by pressure waves (like exhausts) and tend to work well at particular rpm at the expense of power elsewhere. Ie, I would expect to gain a bit of peak power and lose a bit elsewhere.

I would very much doubt that combined without other work they would give you 10% more power, let alone 10% more power throughout the rev range.

All the best

Katy
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Old Thread Alert!

The last post was made 10 years, 165 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
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