Some advice needed please

[Scott-83]

Good Morning,

I have tried to search for the answer, but I didn't get a lot of results for 'chain mileage' etc.

I currently have a YBR125 and I am taking lessons. I hope to get a 'big bike' either before, or just after my test (will be stored until test is passed if I get it beforehand).

I have seen a SV650 advertised on ebay and I asked a few 'general' questions, one of which was regarding the chain and sprocket replacement.

The bike has covered 22,500miles and is on a 'T' (1999) plate. The seller does not know when either the chain or sprockets were replaced and has owned the bike since March 2008 and says they are "in good nick".

Before I go for a viewing, should I be factoring a new chain and sprocket into my buying costs? or should they 'theoretically' be ok? I am pretty new to bikes, so I don't know how long a chain on a bike like this is supposed to last.

I am reasonably handy with a set of spanners, and I changed the chain on my YBR (bike has covered 10k miles), so I can change chain and sprockets if neccessary (have the chain link splitter) but I was just looking for some advice.

I am currently torn between a SV650 and a Fazer600, I will have either, just depends on which is the best overall buy at the time, but this SV 'seems' reasonably well cared for.

[neil.]

It's hard to say as it depends on how well the chain has been looked after, and what sort of conditions the bike has been ridden in - i.e. if it's been ridden every day and neglected, that will shorten its life as opposed to a bike that has an automatic oiler that's only used in good weather and where the owner has cleaned/adjusted the chain frequently. If the bike still has the original set, 22k would be reasonably old for in my opinion but you should check them out on the bike in question. I ride all year round and regularly clean, lube and adjust my chain. I got 15k from the original C&S (DID and JT) before I reached the last mark on the adjuster and 8k from a crap set (IRIS and unknown sprockets) that snapped way too prematurely.

Sprockets basically look hooked when they're worn out - get the owner to remove the front sprocket cover so you can have a look as the front sprocket wears out faster than the rear, and as for the chain, look for lots of rust and tight spots (kinks that won't move when you try and push the links up/down). Also look at how far back the rear wheel has been adjusted to get an idea of how much the chain has stretched/worn. If it's on the last adjuster mark, it's time for a new set!

You could even go as far as consulting the service manual of the bike and measuring a set length of the chain to compare it with whatever the manufacturer states that the service limit is. This might be impractical on a bike you're going to view though...
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CBT February 2008 | A2 June 2008 | Yamaha YBR125 (written off) | Honda CBF125 (current)

[Kickstart]

Hi

In support of the above, about 15k is what I would expect from a reasonable make chain and sprockets used regularly and maintained OK. Abuse them or use a cheap and nasty chain and I would expect them to last far less, take very good care of them (and / or use an automatic chain oiler) and I would expect far more. Based on that and without a chain oiler fitted I would guess that the chain is between half worn (assuming a 15k life for the first chain) to being on its last legs (assuming an abused first chain lasting 10k).

Difficult bit about changing a chain is riveting the new connecting link. Tool for that will be upwards of about £40. Not sure what the chain splitting tool you have is, but if designed for the YBR then it will almost certainly not be up to the job on the SV chain (but an angle grinder will do the job quite well).

All the best

Keith
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Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[Scott-83]

Thank you for the replies, it gives me plenty of information to work with.

The chain splitter was given to me from soneone who used to have high powered bikes, so hopefully will be up to the job (if needed) as it was used on his bikes.

If not, i'll have to buy a new one as I am intending to be a biker for quite some time yet and I'll be doing plenty of miles.

[Kickstart]

Hi

If you decide on buying a tool to rivet chains then be aware that there are 4 common times of link. Basic split links that you do not need a tool to rivet in place, there being a slip to hold them together. There are then 3 kinds of rivet link. One type uses some kind of sheer bolt as part of the link, to use you just tighten something up until it snaps off and that is job done, but I have never used one of these. The other 2 are very similar, but one uses a rivet link with soft ends that peen over easily (normally easily identified by having a copper coloured end with a dimple in the middle), and the cheap rivet tools are designed for these, while the other uses normal links which are far tougher to rivet and will likely break the cheaper riveting tools.

Hopefully the above will save you some unexpected hassle.

All the best

Keith
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Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[Scott-83]

Thanks again for your help.

I am sure that pretty much every aspect of a bike chain has been covered before, but most searches that include the word "Chain" seem to bring back a long list of threads, so I appreaciate the replies even though the same thing will have been typed before this thread appeared.

Hopefully I can go to see the bike at the weekend and i'll have a better idea as to how suitable it is for my budget and what I need it for.

[Kickstart]

Hi

Hope you find a bike to suit you.

All the best

Keith
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Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing