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YBR125 Oil Change

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sparkywilliam...
Scooby Slapper



Joined: 27 Jan 2010
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PostPosted: 17:20 - 18 Apr 2010    Post subject: YBR125 Oil Change Reply with quote

Hi,
Can i use Tesco Diesel mineral oil SAE15w/40 in my bike?
Instead of paying for expensive motorbike oil?
it says it meets API CF-4 ACEA A3/B3/B4.

I only ask this as i remember reading someone had always used this type of oil but the semi-synthetic type in their cars and bike and had never had a problem.

This oil is not semi but fully mineral.


Thanks
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Noxious89123
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PostPosted: 18:10 - 18 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your bike takes what, 1 litre of oil? Just use the specified oil of the correct type. A single litre of 10w/40w semi-synth is hardly going to break the bank.

You don' have to buy expensive bike specific oil, any oil of the correct spec would be fine. So pretty much any 10w/40 semi-synth.
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neil.
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PostPosted: 18:27 - 18 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
SAE10W30 or SAE10W40 or SAE15W40 or SAE20W40 or SAE20W50

API SE, SF, SG or higher.


The Premier Yamaha dealers tend to use Shell VSX4 10w40. I have used Putoline DX4 10w40, Shell VSX4 10w40 and currently Halfords Semi-synthetic 10w40 (used that for the last 4 changes and it's been fine). I tend to change oil every 2000 miles as these little engines/gearboxes/clutches share it and work it hard, plus there's no changeable oil filter, bar a strainer in the sump (which you should clean every so often) and a centrifugal filter in the oil pump which you don't really ever look at unless you have an oil pressure problem. I'm contemplating a magnetic sump plug although that won't pick up anything copper/aluminium, but might help with other stuff if there is any.
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Bubbs
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PostPosted: 18:44 - 18 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used 10/40w from halfords which cost me about 20 quid for 5 ltr's. Bike has been fine. Cheap as chips.
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el_oso
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PostPosted: 23:59 - 18 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

a friend has been using tesco mineral crap in his bike for ages and has not had any problems.
the bike in question is either '88 or '89 ntv with about 80k on it. he has done way over 10k on it in just over 6months. he also rags it about everywhere and has done no maintenance on it since he has had it. he washed it for the first time last week.
it is a honda though Wink
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beerbelly
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PostPosted: 20:49 - 19 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

i read a lot of these problems but seldom comment but every so often a silly bollocks comes along,i often wonder if its a moderator plant to test you guys !!!!!!!!!!,

Beerbelly
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cloric_tzr
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PostPosted: 21:30 - 19 Apr 2010    Post subject: Re: YBR125 Oil Change Reply with quote

sparkywilliams wrote:
Hi,
Can i use Tesco Diesel mineral oil SAE15w/40 in my bike?
Instead of paying for expensive motorbike oil?
it says it meets API CF-4 ACEA A3/B3/B4.

I only ask this as i remember reading someone had always used this type of oil but the semi-synthetic type in their cars and bike and had never had a problem.

This oil is not semi but fully mineral.


Thanks


use old chip fat oil just as good. (filter it 1st to get the little bits of frazzled food out of it) failing that go buy the proper FUCKING oil. 1 litre of halford 10/40 8.99 its not rocket science.
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TUG
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PostPosted: 18:39 - 20 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

neil. wrote:
Quote:
SAE10W30 or SAE10W40 or SAE15W40 or SAE20W40 or SAE20W50

API SE, SF, SG or higher.


The Premier Yamaha dealers tend to use Shell VSX4 10w40.
They are supposed to use Yamalube tbh...
Just use 1 litre of motorcycle semi synthetic oil please, it doesn't cost much and the shitter cheaper oil you you the more your engine will shit out its internals.
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.
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PostPosted: 14:34 - 21 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="neil."]
Quote:
I'm contemplating a magnetic sump plug although that won't pick up anything copper/aluminium, but might help with other stuff if there is any.


I bought a (maplins) rare earth magnet and stuck it on the hexagonal head (outside end) of the sump plug.
It's strong enough to attract metallic particles onto the other internal end of the drain plug.
Cheaper than buying a dedicated magnetic sump plug.
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stutterin' sam
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PostPosted: 15:30 - 21 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have been driving cars and bikes regularly since 1962, I was a qualified motor mechanic and I have never used a premium oil in any of my vehicles, as long it carries the appropriate SAE numbers it does the job. Iv'e never had an engine or gearbox seize on me in all that time. Tesco's, Asda, Aldi Lidl's etc. own brands are all fine by me.
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TUG
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PostPosted: 23:23 - 21 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

stutterin' sam wrote:
I have been driving cars and bikes regularly since 1962, I was a qualified motor mechanic and I have never used a premium oil in any of my vehicles, as long it carries the appropriate SAE numbers it does the job. Iv'e never had an engine or gearbox seize on me in all that time. Tesco's, Asda, Aldi Lidl's etc. own brands are all fine by me.

Buy a yamaha R125 or a Aprilia RS125 and run them on cheap oil then tell me if they seize or so. Wink
I don't see the point in cutting corners on something you have paid for to use all the time and neglect.
Asda etc cheap oils in cars is generally ok because of how robust they are, but in a high reving motorcycle its just going to need changing twice as much and doesn't seem that cost effective to me.
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cloric_tzr
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PostPosted: 08:05 - 22 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

TUG wrote:
stutterin' sam wrote:
I have been driving cars and bikes regularly since 1962, I was a qualified motor mechanic and I have never used a premium oil in any of my vehicles, as long it carries the appropriate SAE numbers it does the job. Iv'e never had an engine or gearbox seize on me in all that time. Tesco's, Asda, Aldi Lidl's etc. own brands are all fine by me.

Buy a yamaha R125 or a Aprilia RS125 and run them on cheap oil then tell me if they seize or so. Wink
I don't see the point in cutting corners on something you have paid for to use all the time and neglect.
Asda etc cheap oils in cars is generally ok because of how robust they are, but in a high reving motorcycle its just going to need changing twice as much and doesn't seem that cost effective to me.


u wrong and right an rs and yamaha 125 are both 2 stroke his bikes a 4. i wouldnt buy cheep 2 stroke oil for my yama caus as u say high reving hi heat the oil is essetial but a 4 stroke bike no probs
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i dumped my girlfriend the other day! she wouldnt act out one of my fantasy's. all i wanted her to do was come home from work, catch me fucking her sister and join in!!! miserable bitch!
My wifes so ugly, the only thing that goes down on her
Is the internet connection.
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ian789
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PostPosted: 09:45 - 22 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

cloric_tzr wrote:


u wrong and right an rs and yamaha 125 are both 2 stroke his bikes a 4. i wouldnt buy cheep 2 stroke oil for my yama caus as u say high reving hi heat the oil is essetial but a 4 stroke bike no probs


I thought the Yamaha R125 is a 4 stroke?
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P.
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PostPosted: 13:37 - 22 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

it is Rolling Eyes
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TUG
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PostPosted: 23:24 - 22 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

##Paddy## wrote:
it is Rolling Eyes

Thanks paddy for pointing.. sorry maybe i should type like him *cough*
Mehbe if uz lukd on teh webz and shit bruv youz kno it be a 4t innit blud.
Reckon he understood that Paddy? Laughing
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ms51ves3
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PostPosted: 23:36 - 22 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Morissons have offers on at the moment. 1 litre of Havoline semi synthetic oil for £2.40. Meets or exceeds A3/B3 spec Thumbs Up
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serlant
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PostPosted: 09:20 - 23 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

£20 for 4 litres of 10w40 castrol gtx, jobs a good'un.
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temeluchus
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PostPosted: 09:53 - 23 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

If your bike has an engine designed before the mid 90s, you are pissing money away by buying expensive oils that it cannot possibly make use of.

ANY reputable oil these days is far better than what they would have originally been specced with. The main advantage of synthetic oils is that they last longer, not protect better. Most bike manufacturers recommend it these days to increase service intervals.

The most important thing with oil is regular changes!!

I ran a GSXR1100 on 6 quid a 5L bottle halvoline mineral car oil. I changed it every 3000 miles or so, over the 5 years I owned it. I adjusted the valves at 35000 miles then at 50000 and both times the cams were spotless and looked brand new. [/i]
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TUG
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PostPosted: 23:26 - 23 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Car oils have different addatives (however its spelt) to motorcycle oils.
I dont think motorcycle oils are exspensive, then again i paid £1500 for insurance on a bike once.
The problem i have is that i see bikes day in day out that haven't had right oil filters used or oils possibly and the engines sound like they've been at the bottom of a canal for a few weeks then fired up with a customer complaining that his friends bike doesn't sound/feel like that.
Theres nothing wrong with the propper stuff, so why not use it?
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temeluchus
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PostPosted: 01:18 - 24 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

TUG wrote:
Car oils have different addatives (however its spelt) to motorcycle oils.
I dont think motorcycle oils are exspensive, then again i paid £1500 for insurance on a bike once.
The problem i have is that i see bikes day in day out that haven't had right oil filters used or oils possibly and the engines sound like they've been at the bottom of a canal for a few weeks then fired up with a customer complaining that his friends bike doesn't sound/feel like that.
Theres nothing wrong with the propper stuff, so why not use it?


The bikes manufacturers will specify an oil that meets certain specifications, this includes the additives package. API SG is the typical. Most car oils are SL or better these days. So the specification for bike oil is generally lower than many car oils.

The only real difference between car engines and (most) bike engines is that bike engines have the gearbox inside the crankcase. This is why bikes give oils a hard time, and synthetic oils last longer.

Again, its regular oil changes that are the most important factor.
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evoboy
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PostPosted: 09:21 - 24 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Temeluchus wrote:


The most important thing with oil is regular changes!!

I ran a GSXR1100 on 6 quid a 5L bottle halvoline mineral car oil. I changed it every 3000 miles or so, over the 5 years I owned it. I adjusted the valves at 35000 miles then at 50000 and both times the cams were spotless and looked brand new. [/i]


Ive just lumped 4 litres of that Havoline Semi Synth 10w40 in my zx6r( £6.50 for 5 litres).

Thats done over 50k on Rock Oil, Car oil and its only just had the clutch done, valves are all within spec and the cams look like new.

Thumbs Up
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cloric_tzr
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PostPosted: 16:16 - 24 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

TUG wrote:
##Paddy## wrote:
it is Rolling Eyes

Thanks paddy for pointing.. sorry maybe i should type like him *cough*
Mehbe if uz lukd on teh webz and shit bruv youz kno it be a 4t innit blud.
Reckon he understood that Paddy? Laughing


who are you talking about?
you said a yamaha r125 or a rs 125 i believed you wer on about a tzr 125r which is 2 stroke. an yama r 125 is 4 stoke so why wer you comparing a 2t to a 4t?
____________________
i dumped my girlfriend the other day! she wouldnt act out one of my fantasy's. all i wanted her to do was come home from work, catch me fucking her sister and join in!!! miserable bitch!
My wifes so ugly, the only thing that goes down on her
Is the internet connection.
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TUG
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PostPosted: 17:13 - 24 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Temeluchus wrote:

The bikes manufacturers will specify an oil that meets certain specifications, this includes the additives package. API SG is the typical. Most car oils are SL or better these days. So the specification for bike oil is generally lower than many car oils.

The only real difference between car engines and (most) bike engines is that bike engines have the gearbox inside the crankcase. This is why bikes give oils a hard time, and synthetic oils last longer.

Again, its regular oil changes that are the most important factor.

Fair enough if your right, but i'd rather do things correctly for the sake of a few quid extra, i can get bike oil cheaper than petrol anyway and far cheaper than your Half arsed u line.
Its your bike do as you like, but imo if a jobs worth doing, its worth doing propperly.
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temeluchus
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PostPosted: 21:42 - 24 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

TUG wrote:

Fair enough if your right, but i'd rather do things correctly for the sake of a few quid extra, i can get bike oil cheaper than petrol anyway and far cheaper than your Half arsed u line.
Its your bike do as you like, but imo if a jobs worth doing, its worth doing propperly.


half arsed is buying bike oil then changing it every 5K+ miles believing thats the best way to do things.

"bike" oil is mostly a marketing gimmick to screw people out of their money. So please carry on buying it.
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TUG
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PostPosted: 23:17 - 24 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I will as its cheaper than buying half arsed u line. Thumbs Up Laughing
To annoy you even more, i use chain lube and genuine oil filters and air filters too, and i buy the most exspensive tyres, chains, and sprockets. Surprised
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