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what sandpaper do i need?

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badas
Scooby Slapper



Joined: 22 Mar 2010
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PostPosted: 22:16 - 21 Apr 2010    Post subject: what sandpaper do i need? Reply with quote

hi all,

wanting to know what grades of sand paper and wet and dry i need to take off the old paint on my plastics and to also help smoth out the primer once applied?

thanks
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ripzay
Nitrous Nuisance



Joined: 01 Dec 2008
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PostPosted: 22:37 - 21 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've just resprayed all my plastics and have got a mirror finish. i did as follows:

Paint
I use 2 pack paint from a HVLP gravity fed spray gun with a compressor and pressurised mask (2 pack paint can be pretty bad on the lungs), you should still be able to get pretty good results using rattle cans, but I've always found using proper paint yields better results and the paint goes a lot further.

Method

NOTE: if there are cracks in the paint you must go right down to plastic / metal. if there are no cracks in the paint there is no real need to go right down to plastic / metal

1) Use 120 grit sand paper to flat back the paint until you have a smooth and even surface

2) Spray a layer of primer and allow to dry thoroughly.

3) Use 240 grit sand paper to flat this layer of primer back - you may go all the way through it in places.

4) Spray a layer of primer and allow to dry thoroughly.

5) Spray a very thin dusting of paint (colour doesn't matter as long as it has a contrast against the primer).

6) Use 240 grit sand paper to flat the paint back, keep going until you see none of the thin dusting you've just sprayed. as you do this you will see where the high spots and low spots are (on the high spots the colour will be sanded off before the low spots)

7) Spray your colour on in even coats (2-3 coats) - no sanding!

8) Spray your laquer on in even coats (3-4 coats) - no sanding!

9) Allow laquer to dry for at LEAST a week before doing any finish work.

10) Use 1200 grit wet & dry (with no water) to flat the laquer back, it will look horrlbe, scratched and matt.

11) Use 1200 grit wet & dry (with warm water and a little washing up liquid) to flat the laquer back, then dry using a chamois or soft towel. the paint will still look slightly scratched and matt.

12) Use 1500 grit wet & dry (with warm water and a little washing up liquid) to flat the laquer back, then dry using a chmois or soft towel. the paint should not look scratched, but will still have a matt finish.

14) Use G3 cutting paste (available from most decent motor factors) dry - apply with a clean rag / cloth (lint free - I use material from old cotton t-shirts) in a circular motion and clean off with a second rag (or use a decent variable speed polisher with a course sponge head)

15) Use G3 cutting paste with a little water - apply with a clean rag / cloth (lint free) in a circular motion and clean off with a second rag. Paint should look pretty good at this point, but not perfect

16) Wash the panels off with soapy water - be sure to remove all the G3 paste.

17) Use G10 polishing compound (similar to T-Cut, but less abrasive) - apply with a clean rag / cloth (lint free) in a circular motion and clean off with a second rag. Paint will get much much better with this step, repeat until you have an almost mirror finish.

18) Apply a decent wax product to the paint; again using a clean rag / cloth (lint free) in a circular motion and taking off with a second rag.

Paint should be gleaming and the wax will make washing easier as well as protect the paint.

If you want your paint to stay that way, wash the bike regularly (use 2 buckets, one for rinsing out your sponge - so you don't get dirt / grit in your clean water.) and apply fresh wax after every few washes.

NOTE: be careful when flatting back the laquer with wet & dry, it's very easy to go through the laquer and hit paint or even primer, if you do this you'll have to re-spray your laquer or paint & laquer.

Apologies for the long-winded post, but hope it gives you some help. I'm no professional but this is how I paint and I've been told that I get pretty good results.

Cheers

Ben
____________________
Current: 2005 KTM SuperDuke 990
Previous: 1996 Suzuki Bandit 600
Previous: 1994 Suzuki GSX-R 400


Last edited by ripzay on 07:35 - 22 Apr 2010; edited 2 times in total
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badas
Scooby Slapper



Joined: 22 Mar 2010
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PostPosted: 22:43 - 21 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

thankyou Smile

don't suppose you know the best and cheapest method of ceating a "Fake" carbon fibe paint effect?

ty
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DrDonnyBrago
World Chat Champion



Joined: 03 Jan 2010
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PostPosted: 22:44 - 21 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shocked Nice detailed post there buddy Karma
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badas
Scooby Slapper



Joined: 22 Mar 2010
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PostPosted: 22:53 - 21 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

no compressor im agraid, cans it is Smile

these carbon sheets, does it mean i don't need to bother painting beneath them?

whats the cost and best place to get them from and any specific methods to apply them and get best results?

cheers Smile
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ripzay
Nitrous Nuisance



Joined: 01 Dec 2008
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PostPosted: 07:29 - 22 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry no pictures yet - i've lent my camera to someone and not got it back yet! i'll post some before and after pictures as soon as i can.

with regards to the carbon fibre effect..

The best I have seen is 3M's di-noc carbon fibre, it isn't cheap but it's as close to real carbon fibre as you're going to get.

this with a few coats of laquer would give you a gloss look.

can be bought from ebay or these guys: https://www.undergroundgraphics.com/Carbon-Fibre-Vinyl/Carbon-Fibre-Vinyl-by-3M/p-728-2137/

there are videos all over youtube showing how to get the stuff onto your panels, just need a soft plastic scraper, a heat gun and a scalpel.

something i missed from my post above - be very very careful when using the wet & dry on the laquer, if you don't have enough coats on it is very easy to go through the laquer and hit paint, and if you do that you'll have to spray a couple of laquer coats again.
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Current: 2005 KTM SuperDuke 990
Previous: 1996 Suzuki Bandit 600
Previous: 1994 Suzuki GSX-R 400
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ripzay
Nitrous Nuisance



Joined: 01 Dec 2008
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PostPosted: 22:51 - 26 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Before:

https://www.ben.zenwebsolutions.com/ben/bandit2.jpg

After:

https://www.ben.zenwebsolutions.com/ben/bandit/bandit%2001.jpg

https://www.ben.zenwebsolutions.com/ben/bandit/bandit%2002.jpg

https://www.ben.zenwebsolutions.com/ben/bandit/bandit%2003.jpg
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Current: 2005 KTM SuperDuke 990
Previous: 1996 Suzuki Bandit 600
Previous: 1994 Suzuki GSX-R 400
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prawny1
World Chat Champion



Joined: 28 Jun 2005
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PostPosted: 23:58 - 26 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

You don't want to use 240 grit to flat back your guide coat, 800 grit is what you need to use under main base coat you can get away with 600 when using 2k but thats as fine as I would go by hand.
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shredtheibane...
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 21 Apr 2010
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PostPosted: 20:52 - 28 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

ripzay:

Excellent post buddy! What happened to the bandit before? Nice straight forks i see there!

Excellent work though! looks smart with the purple hoses! Will defiantly follow that guide!

"The proof is in the pudding!"

Ryan
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Walloper
Super Spammer



Joined: 24 Feb 2005
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PostPosted: 00:31 - 29 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

ripzay, the Bandit's transformation from Red to Black looks good.
You should do something similar with the back yard now.
It is a shite-hole.. Razz
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