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| JoDuncan |
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 JoDuncan L Plate Warrior
Joined: 21 Oct 2005 Karma :  
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| mr.z |
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 mr.z World Chat Champion

Joined: 04 Feb 2004 Karma :  
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 Posted: 18:35 - 21 Oct 2005 Post subject: |
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Sounds odd, will it bump start?
Take the plugs out and have a look at them..
Have you been useing the choke to start it? (fully on or half? do you leave it on for long?)
Check the fuel overflow pipes aren't clogged, maybe its being flooded by fuel?
Phone they guy you brought it from and ask if anything similar has happened with it before...
Ask the garrage what exactly they did and what was wrongwith it, do not give tham anymore money, make a fuss, you paid for it to be fixed right?
+ try jumpstarting it, flat batterys can cause allsorts of weird problems. ____________________ >RidingSkills<->Tech Tips<->MyBikes< |
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| Robby |
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 Robby Dirty Old Man

Joined: 16 May 2002 Karma :   
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| JoDuncan |
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 JoDuncan L Plate Warrior
Joined: 21 Oct 2005 Karma :  
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 Posted: 11:29 - 22 Oct 2005 Post subject: |
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Lost the guy i bought it from's number so can't do that. I'll phone up the garage, do these things have any sort of guarantee? like you said, i paid for it to be fixed!
I don't think the battery is a problem, all the electrics come on etc.. As for the cholk, i have been using it to start, fully out, usually starts fine, of course when it's cold it sometimes struggles. where are the fuel overflow pipes?
the bump starting aspect.. In a word, no, however, my brother did manage to start it after loads of effort by me pushing, him pressing start and revving whilst jumping on the seat. But then it died several times. and wouldn't start for me at all.
thanks dude |
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| mr.z |
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 mr.z World Chat Champion

Joined: 04 Feb 2004 Karma :  
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 Posted: 12:05 - 22 Oct 2005 Post subject: |
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The battery can appear to work fine (all your lights will work normaly) but not have enough to get the engine going, starting uses a hell of allot of power, 2minutes on the button would probably flatten the battery entirely, 60seconds on the button would take it too low for it to be any use...
Give it a try anyway, its amazeing how often this can be a problem..
Bump starting is starting without the starter motor (no pushing the starter button), you'd put it in 2n'd hold in the clutch, run with it and let the clutch out slowly, when it starts pull the clutch in and rev it to keep it going..
Any good garrage should gaurentee work done, phone and explain the problem has happened again, so whatever they "fixed" wasn't.. they will no doubt say its something you've done or make up any old shite saying its something else, you'll just have to hope they are honest...
The carbs have pipes comeing out the bottom and runing down onto the floor if they took them off they should have checked them anyhow.. theres also a screw on the bottom, loosening this will empty the carb of any fuel however its best to leave it alone unless your 200% sure of when your doing (hanyes manual is a minimum requirement!)
As i said before, take the plugs out and have a look and post what you find (or a pic) there might if your lucky be a spark plug tool under the seat, otherwise get one cause your gonna need it eventually... ____________________ >RidingSkills<->Tech Tips<->MyBikes< |
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| Kickstart |
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 Kickstart The Oracle

Joined: 04 Feb 2002 Karma :     
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| stinkwheel |
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 stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist

Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :    
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 Posted: 21:43 - 23 Oct 2005 Post subject: |
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Sound to me like it simply isn't getting any fuel.
First check for a spark though by removing a sparkplug, attaching it to the plug lead and making sure the metal bit at the bottom of the sparkplug is touching the cylinder head. Now press the starter button. You should see a fat blue spark jumping directly between the electrodes as the engine turns over. If there isn't one first off change the plugs, if you are unsuccessful with that, get back in touch.
That said, an electrical problem is less likely with this bike as each cylinder has a seperate CDI and coil, essentially two things would have to break similtaneously for it not to fire up at all.
If you have a spark, then my main suspicion would be that it isn't getting any fuel. If you take the plug out after turning the engine over without success, it should be wet and covered in petrol. If it isn't then there is a fueling problem.
If so, first check there is fuel coming through the tap by pulling the rubber hose off the tap and switching it on briefly. You should get a stream of petrol coming out. Then repeat this with the fuel line attached but disconnected from the carbs. If you have fuel there too, you could be looking at a blockage in the carbs themselves. ____________________ “Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
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Old Thread Alert!
There is a gap of 4 years, 226 days between these two posts... |
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| sdevin14 |
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 sdevin14 L Plate Warrior
Joined: 05 Jun 2010 Karma : 
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| Robby |
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 Robby Dirty Old Man

Joined: 16 May 2002 Karma :   
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| Teflon-Mike |
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 Teflon-Mike tl;dr

Joined: 01 Jun 2010 Karma :    
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 Posted: 12:15 - 06 Jun 2010 Post subject: Re: Honda CB-125-TD problems problems problems! |
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| JoDuncan wrote: | I am in need of some help! |
Hi, first of all where in the world are you?
I have five of these damn things. Renovating one for the Girlfreind.
(why five? Dont bleedin ask! Long Story!)
If you are local to Coventry ish (PM me if NEAR, I'm not putting more accurate location on open forum!), possible I might be able to give 'hands-on' help and more; swapping CDI's coil-packs etc from known good'ns to find the fault.
However; first off, carbs were 'set' by a mechanic. Doesn't say much, all they could have done is twiddle the idle screw!
And there's no mention of setting the ignition OR, and this is the one that catches people out, adjusting the cam-chain.
Honda in the early 80's had a horrible reputation of fragile automatic cam-chain adjusters..... CB125 frightened people becouse of that reputation, and they used to get flogged on as soon as teh cam-chain started rattling, afraid the self adjuster was about to disintegrate....
It WASN'T.... it dont have one!
It has a screw adjustment mechanism on the back of the cylinder barel hidden between teh carbs, and an awkward procedure for setting the tension on it, involving removing the two inspection caps on the mag-casing...
THIS needs to be done before you do anything.
Get the Painz Manual, (£16 from Dave-silvers or Busters, inc post, but on a 5-day order lead)
Read the first section, 'routine maintenence'..... follow it to the letter, making sure that the ignition timing is set right AND the cam-chain is adjusted.
You might have a spark, out the hole, but not one in the hole, but either way, makes no difference if its not happening at the right time, or the valves aren't getting the charge in or the exhaust out the way around it!
As said, charge the battery; you may not be getting enoigh juice from it to turn the engine AND fire the coils,.
{A New Battery, again, busters os DSS is about £20 & worth the investment to eliminate variables. 'Weak' batteries can take charge & turn starters, but current draw as they do so drops volts significantly, & hence not give enough EMF to fire the coil.}
so do THAT and the routine maintenence, and then try starting on the button... if no joy, recharge the battery, try bumping.
all being well, she SHOULD start first prod. If not, we'll have eliminated a few variables.
JUST to eliminate a couple straight away though; how many carburettors do you have? & What colour is the engine?
If you only have ONE carb, then probable you dont have a CB engine in there, and its come from a CD-Benley..... or a CM 'Custom'.
CD Benley engine is the same basic engine; CM isn't... has 360 deg crank (both pistons at TDC at the same time) as oposed to a 180 crank (One slug up, One Slug down). Both fit the frame, but getting a CM motor to run in a CB frame needs a lot more than just the motor... think you CAN swap the carbs over, but the ignition HAS to match the engine.
Benley engines are silver grey with black rocker cover, think that CM motors are all silver, and CB motors are all black. worth checking!
Also while examining stuff, have a close look at the exhausts.
They often 'hole' in the down-pipes. Bottom curve where the curve under the engine is common, and they tend to get the chrome scraped there riding up curbs, but they also go on the top-side, in the bend where crud collects. & check the baffles & silencer too.
Holes in the exhaust can screw the carburation & give all sorts of running problems.
If you have bought the bike recently, quite possible to plug a small-ish hole with araldite or something to cover up the fault, just long enough to get the bike shifted, but it will fall out as the hole rots more very soon, and YOU get all teh hassle and the £140 bill for a new exhaust!
BUT... Paynes Manual..... if nowt else, has 'fault finding' section, that may be worth following for more pointers. |
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| Frost |
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 Frost World Chat Champion

Joined: 26 May 2004 Karma :  
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| sdevin14 |
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 sdevin14 L Plate Warrior
Joined: 05 Jun 2010 Karma : 
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| Teflon-Mike |
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 Teflon-Mike tl;dr

Joined: 01 Jun 2010 Karma :    
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 Posted: 17:14 - 06 Jun 2010 Post subject: |
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| sdevin14 wrote: | well i am checking as i have the bike sittin at home and i only post mine this mornin a bit new to this so i didn't no how to post a new topic no i just post on top of this if this is ok with u didn't no it was a law |
That was at me Sdevin, becouse I quoted O.P.
You have different symptoms, but if the motor runs, then you cant have 'no' spark, surely?
YES the carbs can be tricky to set up, but the trick is to start ad above advice, following the Paynes Manual on the routine maintenence to set the ignition timing & cam-chain tension.
Then look at the carbs.
If motors are left to stand the carbs can sludge up, so removing & cleaning carbs is a process oft-done to see if you get any improvement in rough running.
HOWEVER.... often done on little bikes by newbies, they get over-done and done ham-fistedly, and the rubbers the carbs mount on get stressed and crack leading to leaks down-stream of the carb giving lean running and making the carbs VERY difficult to set up.
When you have a perished carb-rubber, bikes often refuse to run without choke.
THAT I think would be my first suggestion in your case, if you DO have a running engine, and not dead electrics.
As previouse, if near Cov, pm me, I still have bits that could be swapped about to identify a problem... if not completely fix it!
(Wondering if I have a set of 'spare' CDI units... think I might actually, but anyway.)
Start with the basics, then look at your carb rubbers.
Oh.... just a thought, also look at the inlet rubbers between the carb & air-box. Not as influential on micture, but getting the carbs squshed back into place without removing the air-boxes, some people get the rubbers trapped blocking the carb-mouth... not helpful; chokes the motor. |
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| Frost |
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 Frost World Chat Champion

Joined: 26 May 2004 Karma :  
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| sdevin14 |
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 sdevin14 L Plate Warrior
Joined: 05 Jun 2010 Karma : 
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 Posted: 09:36 - 07 Jun 2010 Post subject: |
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| Teflon-Mike wrote: | | sdevin14 wrote: | well i am checking as i have the bike sittin at home and i only post mine this mornin a bit new to this so i didn't no how to post a new topic no i just post on top of this if this is ok with u didn't no it was a law |
That was at me Sdevin, because I quoted O.P. |
You have different symptoms, but if the motor runs, then you cant have 'no' spark, surely?
YES the carbs can be tricky to set up, but the trick is to start ad above advice, following the Paynes Manual on the routine maintenance to set the ignition timing & cam-chain tension.
Then look at the carbs.
If motors are left to stand the carbs can sludge up, so removing & cleaning carbs is a process oft-done to see if you get any improvement in rough running.
HOWEVER.... often done on little bikes by newbies, they get over-done and done ham-fistedly, and the rubbers the carbs mount on get stressed and crack leading to leaks down-stream of the carb giving lean running and making the carbs VERY difficult to set up.
When you have a perished carb-rubber, bikes often refuse to run without choke.
THAT I think would be my first suggestion in your case, if you DO have a running engine, and not dead electrics.
As previous, if near Cov, pm me, I still have bits that could be swapped about to identify a problem... if not completely fix it!
(Wondering if I have a set of 'spare' CDI units... think I might actually, but anyway.)
Start with the basics, then look at your carb rubbers.
Oh.... just a thought, also look at the inlet rubbers between the carb & air-box. Not as influential on micture, but getting the carbs squashed back into place without removing the air-boxes, some people get the rubbers trapped blocking the carb-mouth... not helpful; chokes the motor.[/quote]
if u read it it was running now isn't just stop now i have no spark and when it was running it was hard to setting the carbs thats all i was saying i can't be bother with it because it will be some thing with the electrics have an other bike and the electrics when on it and i ended up swapping it for a scooter and this bike is to good to this |
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| sdevin14 |
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 sdevin14 L Plate Warrior
Joined: 05 Jun 2010 Karma : 
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| JoDuncan |
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 JoDuncan L Plate Warrior
Joined: 21 Oct 2005 Karma :  
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| Frost |
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 Frost World Chat Champion

Joined: 26 May 2004 Karma :  
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 15 years, 194 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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