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esullivan |
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 esullivan Could Be A Chat Bot

Joined: 06 Mar 2012 Karma :   
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 Posted: 11:32 - 20 Nov 2013 Post subject: Trouble finding neutral |
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I bought my NC700S a year ago (almost to the day) and have 13,000 miles on it. I had the chain and sprockets changed at around 12K, so not long ago. I've noticed that I sometimes have trouble finding neutral when parking -- a click up and it goes into second, click down and back into first, repeat a few times until the green light finally stays on.
This started recently, but not immediately after the new chain and sprockets so I don't think it's that. The tension seems OK, maybe very, very slightly on the tight rather than loose side (an inch of give in the middle, compared with the specified range of 1"-1.4"). I don't recall ever having this problem while waiting at a red light, only after riding to work or home and trying to park it, so the engine is warm. About 80% of my riding is in central London, so slow filtering, slipping the clutch, accelerate to the next lights, etc.
What could it be? What sort of things should I be checking? ____________________ Current: '14 VFR800X Test passed 31/10/12.
Previous: '12 NC700S, '11 CBF 125, '04 SH 125. |
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Nobby the Bastard |
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 Nobby the Bastard Harley Gaydar

Joined: 16 Aug 2013 Karma :  
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esullivan |
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Copycat73 |
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 Copycat73 World Chat Champion

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davebike |
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 davebike World Chat Champion
Joined: 15 Nov 2013 Karma :   
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 Posted: 11:41 - 20 Nov 2013 Post subject: |
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Check the free play on the clutch cable about a coil in the gap leaver /bracket or 20 /30 mm at end leaver
Also check the oil level in the window with the bike upright
Dave ____________________ Dave
NC750Xdct + others at work !
davebike1@gmail.com |
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Islander |
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 Islander World Chat Champion

Joined: 05 Aug 2012 Karma :    
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 Posted: 11:41 - 20 Nov 2013 Post subject: |
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Adjust the clutch as per the manual.
If it's dragging, you might get a slight 'kick' as you engage gear from neutral and the bike might pull slightly when in gear and the clutch is disengaged. On the other hand, you might not but it might be dragging sufficiently to cause problems when moving to neutral. |
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Aff |
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 Aff World Chat Champion

Joined: 05 May 2011 Karma :    
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 Posted: 11:43 - 20 Nov 2013 Post subject: |
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Adjust it way out, so its almost impossible to engage the clutch. Then when you pull the lever you know you'll get a good separation distance.
If this solves the problem, just adjust your clutch until you can comfortably engage it without it dragging when disengaged/can easily hit neutral. ____________________ Current Bikes:Honda 929RR Fireblade, Honda CD200 Benly (Project), Stomp Z2 140
Electric Bike Project |
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esullivan |
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MarJay |
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 MarJay But it's British!

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esullivan |
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MarJay |
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 MarJay But it's British!

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Pete. |
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 Pete. Super Spammer

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esullivan |
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dydey90 |
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 dydey90 World Chat Champion

Joined: 01 Oct 2013 Karma :   
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 Posted: 08:39 - 21 Nov 2013 Post subject: |
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I'm sure when I went to go see an NC700 the dealer told me that it had some sort of black magic that stopped you from being able to put it in second while stationary?
Or am I thinking of a different bike?  ____________________ This post is probably not serious and shouldn't be taken literally.
Past: CBR125,ER6f NINJA 650, ZZR600 Current: VFR750 |
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esullivan |
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Walloper |
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 Walloper Super Spammer

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esullivan |
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 Posted: 10:25 - 21 Nov 2013 Post subject: |
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I might try to change the oil if this keeps up (I didn't have the issue this morning). I've never changed the oil before (on anything), so might be worth it as a learning experience. I don't have a garage, though. I'd be changing the oil on a cold, wet driveway. Maybe I'll wait for summer to try this new experience.
This bike has an 8,000-mile service interval, so the oil was last changed about 5,000 (hard, dirty, central London) miles ago. ____________________ Current: '14 VFR800X Test passed 31/10/12.
Previous: '12 NC700S, '11 CBF 125, '04 SH 125. |
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Robby |
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 Robby Dirty Old Man

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Walloper |
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 Walloper Super Spammer

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 Posted: 11:08 - 21 Nov 2013 Post subject: |
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esullivan wrote: | I might try to change the oil if this keeps up (I didn't have the issue this morning). I've never changed the oil before (on anything), so might be worth it as a learning experience. I don't have a garage, though. I'd be changing the oil on a cold, wet driveway. Maybe I'll wait for summer to try this new experience.
This bike has an 8,000-mile service interval, so the oil was last changed about 5,000 (hard, dirty, central London) miles ago. |
I think your bike is a Nakid bike so not too much hassle to get to the filter and drain plug.
Roll it over the nearest drainer.
Nooooo. Buy an oil drain container
Cheapest I could find.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Carplan-Oil-Drainer-Can-CAR-TPD010/dp/B005F2ZMW4/ref=sr_1_6?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1385029859&sr=1-6&keywords=oil+pan
You need the filter AND A DRAIN PLUG WASHER and oil for your bike.
I fit OEM filters as if I am concerned enough to change the oil then why not spend thupence h'penny more and assure you have a decent filter on too.
You can get oil form most bike shops or I found Amazon cheapest for my car oil (Mobil 1 ESP 5ls Halfords £50 Amazon £43).
Run the engine to get it warm or until the cooling fan switches on then cuts out again.
Put your container under the drain plug.
Open the drain plug Saving the washer in case you never bothered your arse buying a new one. (And also just to ensure you remove the old one so you don't fit two and encourage a drip.)
Whilst the oil drains whip the oil filter off. You will need a filter strap or wrench for this as they get tight after being on for a while. Do not be tempted to stab a screw driver through it. It will bite you hard if the new filter you bought doesn't fit and you need the bike to go get a proper one. This is the main reason for not being tard-ish about this.
Put a little smear of clean oil on the rubber gasket/seal on top of the new filter.
Some folk like to prefil oil filters. There is no real justifiable reason for this. It only offers a chance of introducing shit into the upstream side of the filter. So can be harmful. Lots of bikes have horizontal fit filters as a space saving so you can't pre-fill anyway.
There is concern that the engine won't get any oil as the filter fills first. This is nonsense as the engine will still have the protection of the old oil film from the previous oil. When you start the engine after refilling with fresh oil it should not have any significant load on anything if idling. It takes about 10-15 seconds for oil to fill the filter and flow to every where on the engine. If feeling anal then simply un-plug the spark-plugs and turn the engine over on the starter for until the oil light goes out. But this loads the starter and battery for little gain. The only time you need a 'pre-lube' procedure is on a bike that's been laid up for ages or a bike engine that's been rebuilt. But as you build you should oil everything too for this sake of the 'dry start'.
Start it on the filter base thread and spin it on until it 'just' contacts the base.
Turn it 3/4 of a turn more and leave it be. This will be tight enough.
Fit the sump plug and new washer (or the original if you were a spaktard and forgot to buy a new one).
Fill the engine to 'near' the correct level with the fresh oil.
Most Hondas I've worked on use a dip-stick to gauge level.
Most bikes require the bike to be on level ground and held very vertical. Use friend (or if you have no friend/s put car axle stands under the rider footrests, trust me, it works better.)
Remove the dip stick by unscrewing.
Wipe any oil off the end.
You will see some hatch marks and two lines.
The hatched area between the upper and lower lines is the 'OK oil level'.
Above or below the Hatched area is the danger level and kittens will/may be sacrificed.
Place the dipstick in the hole but do not screw it in.
Remove and look for oil on the end.
The trick is to know how much oil the bike should hold and as you get almost the amount of oil the OEM says the engine holds into the engine you then frequently dip the oil.
It is easy to add more oil but a cnut to have to drain a little off.
When the oil is on the upper mark, replace the dipstick and screw it in.
Start the engine and let it idle for a minute.
Shut it off and let the bike sit whilst you clean up the mess you made.
Remove the dipstick, wipe the end and sit it back in but do not screw it in yet.
Remove the dip stick and check the level. It should have dropped a little as you have used a tea-cup full to fill the new filter.
Top up to the mark with a little oil.
Screw in the dipstick firmly but do not go mental with it. They also get tight as fukc if over tightened. I smear the o-ring with clean oil here too as a 'belt an' braces' measure.
You are now an 'Internet Bike Mechanic'.  ____________________ W-ireless A-rtificial L-ifeform L-imited to O-bservation P-eacekeeping and E-fficient R-epair |
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 11 years, 245 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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