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Carb float chamber loose...

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neil.
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Joined: 24 Feb 2008
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PostPosted: 17:13 - 26 May 2010    Post subject: Carb float chamber loose... Reply with quote

So I thought there was a slight stench of petrol whenever I parked the bike up, looked at the carb and noticed the float chamber was slightly at an angle, kind of half hanging off I suppose, with drops of petrol hanging off the bottom. Looks like some of the screws holding it to the main body have rattled themselves loose. Has anyone else ever had this happen? I've certainly never heard of it before... Oh well it's a good excuse to remove the carb and give it its first clean out in 27'000 miles. Smile
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CBT February 2008 | A2 June 2008 | Yamaha YBR125 (written off) | Honda CBF125 (current)
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.....
Quote Me Happy



Joined: 15 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: 18:09 - 26 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I hate those little brass screws that seem to come with most carbs, well the carbs on the bikes I've had anyway. It seems like every bike I've had comes with at least one rounded off screw in the carb. While it's off replace them with something else. I've used a set of allen key headed screws.
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neil.
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PostPosted: 21:16 - 26 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I got the carb out and as soon as I tilted it slightly, it pissed petrol out of the gap. 3 of the 4 screws holding the float chamber on were not there at all, I guess it was very possible that the float chamber could have dropped off mid ride. Shocked Meh, now it's off the road until I can get some screws and a new o-ring seal as the old one is really distorted and won't fit back in. Looks really clean inside though, I guess nearly every day riding does that. Neutral
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Phoenix
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Joined: 01 Aug 2002
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PostPosted: 00:09 - 27 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shocking, lucky your bike didn't catch fire really. Those float bowl screws are a total git as they're always made of cheese, i've yet to be defeated by one though, always given them a good few taps with a hammer before trying to undo them, a lot of people replace with allen head bolts. Sounds like someone either didn't do them back up properly or maybe wrecked two of the screws and used insta gasket to hold it on or something thinking it would suffice, i'd give the rest of your bike a good look over.
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temeluchus
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PostPosted: 01:16 - 27 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

RC model shops are a good cheap source for small size allen head bolts, great for carbies.
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neil.
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PostPosted: 07:07 - 27 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Phoenix wrote:
Shocking, lucky your bike didn't catch fire really. Those float bowl screws are a total git as they're always made of cheese, i've yet to be defeated by one though, always given them a good few taps with a hammer before trying to undo them, a lot of people replace with allen head bolts. Sounds like someone either didn't do them back up properly or maybe wrecked two of the screws and used insta gasket to hold it on or something thinking it would suffice, i'd give the rest of your bike a good look over.


The thing is nobody but me has worked on my bike since 16'000 miles when it had a service with a Yamaha dealer, the only place that's ever worked on it as far as I'm aware (I've owned it since 500 miles). I tend to service it as per the manual but next time I'll give it an extra good look over just in case. I'm suspecting vibration caused the screws to work loose over time or sabotage? Evil or Very Mad
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Freaky_1
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Joined: 12 May 2010
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PostPosted: 08:40 - 27 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

neil. wrote:
I'm suspecting vibration caused the screws to work loose over time or sabotage? Evil or Very Mad


I've bought / worked on so many bikes with loose or missing float bowl screws, that I'm fairly certain it's vibration. I make it a point to check them at EVERY service, cleaning and "checkup".

After finding some of my own starting to loosen, I've made it a point to always replace with torx or allens (torx is my personal preference when possible) and a touch of blue locktite, then a paint mark.

Additionally, if it's a carb that has a "through bolt" setup (where the threaded portion on the carb body allows a longer bolt to be used and protrude without causing interference, I tend to use longer bolts and paint mark the protruding portion as it's easier to spot.

Other common areas are exhaust hangers (not all models), side covers on some two cycle engines, top engine mounts on MANY models, rear tank bolts on non hard sleeved models, brake and clutch leaver bosses on several 80s models, coil fixtures on some "thumpers", kick and shift pinch bolts (various), yamaha xv* CDI fixtures (hear same for V Star, but wouldn't know), and most everything on the earlier (60s - 70s) two cycle "screamers".

When possible, use anodized or stainless (prefer stainless in most cases) of the correct grade (hardness) and locktite (or other brand) of red for sever duty parts and blue for parts more likely to be difficult in removal. NEVER use thread locker on exhaust or intake bolts / studs / nuts, unless the shop manual dictates it. Do use "anti seize" on exhaust bolts / studs / nuts and spark plugs.

Sorry for the long winded reply, but if I'm going to mention where I've found issues, might as well list my cures as well.

Frank
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neil.
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PostPosted: 08:50 - 27 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Frank,

You mention not using antiseize on the spark plug, but Haynes suggests you do (if you mean copper grease) and I have done so for ages and never had a problem? Just wondering if there are any reasons not to that you know of?

Cheers for the very informative reply too. Karma
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Freaky_1
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Joined: 12 May 2010
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PostPosted: 09:08 - 27 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

"Do use"

Should probably have spaced that line of text as to break from the Don't use.

Frank
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neil.
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PostPosted: 09:10 - 27 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Freaky_1 wrote:
"Do use"

Should probably have spaced that line of text as to break from the Don't use.

Frank


Haha I see now, my excuse is I'm feeling like shit today. Should go lie down... Smile
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