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Buying a "drift"

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Ingah
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PostPosted: 17:28 - 01 Jul 2010    Post subject: Buying a "drift" Reply with quote

Need to buy a drift to knock out the front wheel bearings of my CB500 so i can change them (i don't have random bits of metal lying around i can use).

Is this what i'm after?:
https://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Parallel-Pin-Punch-Drift-Set-1-8-3-8-200mm-8-5pc-New-/120583683752?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item1c1358fea8

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That_Hornet
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PostPosted: 17:43 - 01 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Look through some skips. I have a small selection from taken out the skip at work. Includes a few steel rods about 1ft, bits of copper pipe (heating) about foot long each. Solid copper drift 1ft by 1". Some was off some scrap metal left for the pikeys in the tipper to come along.
It all gets used in some form.

Just keep an eye out for some.


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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 17:48 - 01 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Machine Mart, use web site. Plenty of stores around, if you want to view before you buy, use the store locator.
Sealey tools online. or general motorfactors. Most do Draper tools, and they have a pretty good set of drifts punches & chissels, think theres 5 or 6 in the set, for about a tenner.
well worthy investment.
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.....
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PostPosted: 17:57 - 01 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd get a set of brass drifts so they're generally softer than what you're hitting. For doing wheel bearings I use a length of steel rod about a foot long and a cm in diameter. It has a good sharpish lip on it and the extra length helps when you pass it through the hub to knock the bearings out the other side.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 18:40 - 01 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

A drift is nothing more than a rod or bar for using as an extension for transferring impact energy from the hammer to the object you're wanting to hit. Old socket-set extension rods make quite good drifts if you cut the square drive off the end - but beware as once you've used it as a drift it's ruined as an extension rod.

For wheel-bearings you have to have a quite hard drift as the bearing race is very hard and usually you only have a tiny edge to get purchase on. You will lose the edge of the drift if it's too soft and have to keep cutting it back.
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beast rider
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PostPosted: 19:01 - 01 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know it's different but when i done the head bearings on my old cb i used a long flat headed screw driver to get it started then used the claw end of a hammer to prise it out.

Was this wrong?
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 19:40 - 01 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

beast rider wrote:
I know it's different but when i done the head bearings on my old cb i used a long flat headed screw driver to get it started then used the claw end of a hammer to prise it out.

Was this wrong?


Not great practice. If you use a tool with a corner you can put a burr on the seat of the bearing race that will hold it off-square when you re-assemble, which will cause the bearing to not be seated right. Pulling the top out with a claw might distort the top of the headstock too.
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iooi
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PostPosted: 20:28 - 01 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got a local garage.

Take wheel off and ask them to tap em out. Even a car one should be able to do that for you.
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 20:33 - 01 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Joe wrote:
I'd get a set of brass drifts so they're generally softer than what you're hitting. For doing wheel bearings I use a length of steel rod about a foot long and a cm in diameter. It has a good sharpish lip on it and the extra length helps when you pass it through the hub to knock the bearings out the other side.


good thought and just reminded me.... doing the effof awkward wheel-bearings on Donna's Pup the other day, rear has a curiousely wide hub, and my drift wan't long enough, well the ones narrow enough to get a decent angle.

A length of M8 or M10 'unithread' rod, about 3 or 4 quid at a decent hardware store or builderss merchant, or a couple of quid more at your average DIT place, is a great thing to have knocking about.

Get nuts and big washers for it as well, and can be pressed into service as a long drift, as I used it, on that occassion.

Does bugger the threads on the end, but you just grind or hack-saw them off when done. Can also grind ends to shape if you need to get into a tight spot or in a smaller hole etc.

With a good threaded portion, nuts and washers you can also use it to wind bushes into thier housings.

Can but cut up into length to make fastners (replace exhaust manifold studs generally!).

Basically the stuff is a yard of threaded metal! Use the thread, dont use the thread, use it however suits, stuff has MULTIPLICITY of injeniouse applications, if you want to get really creative, WELL worth having some knocking about the place!

Pete. wrote:
A drift is nothing more than a rod or bar for using as an extension for transferring impact energy from the hammer to the object you're wanting to hit. Old socket-set extension rods make quite good drifts if you cut the square drive off the end - but beware as once you've used it as a drift it's ruined as an extension rod.


I'm not the only one to do that then!

actually, the Ex used to keep buying cheap socket sets for me for the kids to give me as Birthday & Christmas presents.... 'Oh, he's always buying tools, THESE look 'good', seventy five sockets for £3.99, that'll keep him happy for a while!' Whenever she went into Wilco to buy more blue paint!

You can imagine how 'useful' they were. I have a nice collection of cracked 1/2" drive sockets, extension bars, etc... I find used for them. Have a nice 16mm 'deep' socket constructed from a spark-plug T-bar spanner and a 3/4" double hex that cracked ona Land-rover Diesel cylinder head bolt, welded together.....

BUT... Range-Rover, V8 starter motors, are attached with 8mm cap head bolts. Only theres no room to get a socket in them AND turn it! well with anything like a 'normal' set of tools!

Imagine, that once you have a socket in the cap-head, ther nearest place you can find to get anything like a 1/4 turn on a wratchet is under the front bumper.... while the cap-head you are tryng to undo, is about under the accelerator pedal.

Needs an extension about four and a half feet long!....

I curiousely had enough socket extensions to do this.... now try holding them all together while you turn!

Ent the electric metal mender a wonderful invention!
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Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?'
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yen_powell
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PostPosted: 20:39 - 01 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Like a lot of things in life, sometimes 'longer' is better. The things shown in your post are okay as punches but not really long to reach the opposite side of a rear wheel and still have a bit left to hold onto when you wack it.
https://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b165/yen_powell/P1010713.jpg
https://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b165/yen_powell/P1010712.jpg
https://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b165/yen_powell/P1010714.jpg
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Ingah
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PostPosted: 00:50 - 11 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

After sitting on it for a while, have sent some queries off to GMF / Sealey's etc.

If i don't have any (cheap) joy with those companies, would these do? (in fact, for the cheap price, they appeal strongly):
https://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_525157_langId_-1_categoryId_165469

I'm kinda running out of time now, i've got BikeSafe next weekend and i want to fix my bearings beforehand.
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BanditsHigh
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PostPosted: 06:07 - 11 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

See the thing inside your skull ... yes that gooey blob ... it's called a brain ... try using it ... ever heard of a flat bladed screwdriver?

I don't understand why you are trying to make a simple job difficult!

Hope this helps.

All the best ... Barry
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That_Hornet
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PostPosted: 06:29 - 11 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ingah wrote:
After sitting on it for a while, have sent some queries off to GMF / Sealey's etc.

If i don't have any (cheap) joy with those companies, would these do? (in fact, for the cheap price, they appeal strongly):
https://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_525157_langId_-1_categoryId_165469

I'm kinda running out of time now, i've got BikeSafe next weekend and i want to fix my bearings beforehand.


dude, where are you?
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Ingah
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PostPosted: 13:39 - 11 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

BanditsHigh wrote:
See the thing inside your skull ... yes that gooey blob ... it's called a brain ... try using it ... ever heard of a flat bladed screwdriver?

I don't understand why you are trying to make a simple job difficult!

Hope this helps.

All the best ... Barry


Pete. wrote:
beast rider wrote:
I know it's different but when i done the head bearings on my old cb i used a long flat headed screw driver to get it started then used the claw end of a hammer to prise it out.

Was this wrong?


Not great practice. If you use a tool with a corner you can put a burr on the seat of the bearing race that will hold it off-square when you re-assemble, which will cause the bearing to not be seated right. Pulling the top out with a claw might distort the top of the headstock too.


Does that answer your question?

ThatHornet, i'm in South Wales.
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stonesie
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PostPosted: 15:34 - 11 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

How about a length of steel or brass bar from a place like B&Q? or a trip to your local friendly motorfactors?

The bearings in a car's rear drum brake are not a million miles away from what you are trying to change so any garage can do it for you too.
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Villers
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PostPosted: 17:08 - 11 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
but beware as once you've used it as a drift it's ruined as an extension rod.


As would

Quote:
Old socket-set extension rods make quite good drifts if you cut the square drive off the end


Only kidding Geri Laughing
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BanditsHigh
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PostPosted: 17:22 - 11 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ingah wrote:

Does that answer your question?


When a wheel bearing is removed you chuck it away, you never refit ... therefore if doesn't matter if it gets damaged on the inner race or not and you will not damage the seating that the bearing sits on either!!

I've been fitting my own (and others) wheel bearings for the last 23 years ... you wanted advice and I gave it ... if you don't want to take it and want to waste money on buying drifts then feel free.

All the best ... Barry
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Ingah
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PostPosted: 13:53 - 23 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?p=2573206

I think i'll take a visit to B&Q or Machine Mart before next time i try this job...

About a centimeter diameter and a foot in length? Righto.
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