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Stubborn CG125 Screw and Bolt

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Ingah
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PostPosted: 07:24 - 19 Jul 2010    Post subject: Stubborn CG125 Screw and Bolt Reply with quote

I went to sort the fork seals for my CG125 and am nearly ashamed to say i managed to get stuck on step 1 Laughing

The speedometer screw (on the front wheel), won't come out and the screwdrivers keep slipping out and are beginning to damage it so i stopped (Halfords Professional so i know it's not my tool's fault). I've also tried an impact driver (won't budge it at all despite reasonably hard whacks - i daren't try too much harder because i already mashed my nail open good and proper just a few days ago after missing a wheel bearing with a hammer - too painful a mistake to repeat) and of course, copious amounts of WD40. I've also tried hitting it directly with a hammer hoping to free the thread, and trying to turn it the wrong way to break the seal (neither worked in the slightest).

That's me stuck. Any ideas of what to do next? (bearing in mind this is probably the first time i've had to consider an alternative to the normally effective WD40 + impact driver)

I moved on to the bolt securing the wheel axle, but that won't budge either (despite pushing down really hard on the spanner, and again, considerable amounts of WD40). Am i best to get an extension bar for the extra leverage, or is another method better/safer? (can i even fit an extension bar over a combination spanner - after all it's thicker at the ends?)

I've attached a diagram - it's not my CG but it'll do for demonstrative purposes (1. is the speedo screw, and 2. is the axle bolt thing).
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 08:41 - 19 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD40 is a water displacing (WD) agent; it's not a lubricant and not a penetrating oil. Something like plusgas will work much better in most instances, but still might not help at all.

How much grab can you get on the screw? I'd get the wheel axle out first, might be able to get the speedo drive out without touching the screw or might be easier with the fork on a bench.


For the axle - use a 6 point socket and breaker bar.
A large piece of steel tubing splipped over the spanner would work but it might be a nice time to invest in a decent socket set and breaker bar Thumbs Up .
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The Shaggy D.A.
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PostPosted: 08:51 - 19 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it's only the forks you want to get at, unscrew the speedo cable from the clocks and tape a bag over the end of it. Doesn't cure the siezed screw problem, but lets you get on with the forks.
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MaybeGuy
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PostPosted: 09:06 - 19 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

why does the fromt wheel even need to come off to replace the fork seals?
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Kickstart wrote: Hi I tend to agree with Matt. All the best Keith
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muffy
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PostPosted: 09:53 - 19 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

mate i have done this job you dont need to take speedo out just take wheel off when you get that spindle nut undone and remove the brake shoe housing and cable tie it loosely out your way if youve never done the seals before on a cg wait till you need to get the stantions out that will be fun theres a little hex bolt in the leg its self turn it upside down and you will see it its in the end where the spindle
goes threw this will also drain fork oil so be aware of it

good luck
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 10:15 - 19 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

muffy wrote:
mate i have done this job you dont need to take speedo out just take wheel off when you get that spindle nut undone and remove the brake shoe housing and cable tie it loosely out your way if youve never done the seals before on a cg wait till you need to get the stantions out that will be fun theres a little hex bolt in the leg its self turn it upside down and you will see it its in the end where the spindle
goes threw this will also drain fork oil so be aware of it

good luck



OP - The screw in the bottom of the fork leg has a 99% chance of just turning the fork damper and not unscrewing when you go to undo it, there are many ways of attempting to undo it so don't despair when/if it happens.
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muffy
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PostPosted: 10:24 - 19 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

if i remember rightly you leave the leg in the yolk until youve undone the bolt but as donny said thers ways round it just take your time its not that hard once youve done the first one
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crackpotterpi...
Renault 5 Driver



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PostPosted: 18:46 - 19 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

you will def need a 1/2 drive socket with a ratchet or breaker bar for the wheel bearing nut and bolt,leave the speedo and brake cable attatched and removed the mudguard at the same time will give you loads of room to work.
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