|
Author |
Message |
The Artist |
This post is not being displayed .
|
 The Artist Super Spammer

Joined: 06 Jan 2008 Karma :  
|
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
 |
Kickstart |
This post is not being displayed .
|
 Kickstart The Oracle

Joined: 04 Feb 2002 Karma :     
|
 Posted: 13:21 - 22 Jul 2010 Post subject: |
 |
|
Hi
Yes they are good. Although I am probably a bit biased.
Will do about 150mph, but good off the line for acceleration.
Seat was rejected by the Spanish Inquisition as being too cruel. Part of the problem is the shape at the front of the seat that puts pressure in an area where you would probably prefer it not to be.
Brakes are adequate but possibly seized up by now.
Engines last well. Very tough. Valves rarely need touching (service interval is 28000 miles). Only real weak point is the bearing behind the front sprocket, which is fine normally but prone to failure if you over tighten the chain (and replacing it mean a complete engine strip).
Clutch isn't that tough and can get grabby if abused / hot. However VERY easy to change the plates.
Early (pre Genesis) models don't have the wider "ears" on the fairing. Down side it that this means the early fairings direct cold air straight at your fingers.
Limited choice of tyres due to narrow rims and 16" front / 18" rear wheels. Very late ones had 17" front wheels but still fair narrow (Also have disks that are prone to warping).
Decent size tank and decent on petrol. The seat will have you in pain long before you run low on fuel. Useful reasonably accurate fuel gauge and a nice electric reserver switch. There is a mechanical switch under the tank (for when you take the tank off) but these are prone to breaking.
Avoid a Micron replacement exhaust on them. They are renowned for causing a large flat spot between 3000 and 4000rpm. I had a Micron on mine and replaced it with a Laser which is far better.
Clutch slave cylinders do not have replacement seals listed from Yamaha. But the same seals are used on the FZR1000 and are listed for that.
Carbs on mine were prone to carb icing in cold damp weather (fog normally). Would then do 25mpg and refuse to run below about 4000rpm.
All the best
Keith ____________________ Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing |
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
 |
The Artist |
This post is not being displayed .
|
 The Artist Super Spammer

Joined: 06 Jan 2008 Karma :  
|
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
 |
MarJay |
This post is not being displayed .
|
 MarJay But it's British!

Joined: 15 Sep 2003 Karma :     
|
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
 |
The Artist |
This post is not being displayed .
|
 The Artist Super Spammer

Joined: 06 Jan 2008 Karma :  
|
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
 |
Kickstart |
This post is not being displayed .
|
 Kickstart The Oracle

Joined: 04 Feb 2002 Karma :     
|
 Posted: 13:47 - 22 Jul 2010 Post subject: |
 |
|
allymoss wrote: | Really sorry Kickstart but not getting that anymore! Interestingly it did have a micron exhaust.
Even more seriously than last time.
FZ600 1987
Needs a few bits sorting, reg/rec, wiring etc.
£500. Bargain or not? |
Mmm, I have one of those as well.....
As Marjay says, check the exhaust. I landed up getting replacement (D&K) pipes for mine, but despite them supposedly being stainless they have rusted.
Engine is nowhere near as tough as the FZ. It is basically an FZR400 engine stretched a bit and when raced they had a habit of snapping rods. Not such a problem on the road. 2nd gear is weak on them as well.
Typical Yamaha clutch. Weak and gets grabby when hot / abused, but a doddle to change the plates.
Bodywork is difficult to find in useful condition for sensible money.
Brakes seize up worse than the FZ. Disks are prone to warping (same disks as late FZ750s I think).
Suspension is cruder than the FZ, but it handles quite nicely. But not as stable as the FZ.
Finish is quite a bit inferior to the FZ. They were built at a time when 600s were very much built to a budget while the 750s were far better quality.
Very limited choice of tyres. You have BT014 and thats about it. The rear is an 18" rim with a size that is shared with some 400s, but the tyres for the 400s are H rated while the FZR should have V or Z rated tyres.
Mine seems to eat clutch cables and also has a habbit of draining petrol into the l/h carb when parked. I get over this problem by turning the petrol off 100 yards before I get to my destination. Also had a regulator / rectifier go on mine and a wire short out in front of the carbs (headlight fuse blew every time I used dipped beam, side lights and high beam got me home). The gear change lever and brake lever are a bit prone to getting stiff (doesn't take long to take them off and grease the pivots up).
£500 doesn't sound bad but it will depend on condition.
All the best
Keith ____________________ Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing |
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
 |
Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 14 years, 363 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
 |
|
|