Resend my activation email : Register : Log in 
BCF: Bike Chat Forums


Painting Panels?

Reply to topic
Bike Chat Forums Index -> The Workshop
View previous topic : View next topic  
Author Message

johnsmith222
World Chat Champion



Joined: 26 Dec 2008
Karma :

PostPosted: 14:12 - 19 Jul 2010    Post subject: Painting Panels? Reply with quote

Hi.

I was wondering if anyone can give me some tips or just plain tell me not to bother if it will look shit.

I am wanting to get into painting plastics to sort out the damage that I have done to my bike. I guess for the 200 quid I would rather spend that money on equipment and practice rather than getting it resprayed by someone else.

Would I be able to improve things a lot quite cheaply?

This is what I have to work with. I have already bought another fairing midsection in red for 6 quid. That means if it looks worse than the panel on there then I always have the fucked panel if it looks any better.

I just want the three panels to be the same blue and try and get some stickers to put back on.

Thanks a lot for any tips.

https://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a324/david_m213/DSC00406.jpg?t=1279548644

https://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a324/david_m213/DSC00405.jpg?t=1279548666

Should I take all the red paint off of that cheap panel I have before it gets painted?

Also, do I need a really expensive compressor to do a decent job? I'm just wanting to paint it the one blue colour.

How would I go about getting the right colour?

Thanks guys! it's greatly appreciated.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

stuartadair
Crazy Courier



Joined: 15 Oct 2009
Karma :

PostPosted: 20:06 - 19 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hiya,

I've painted quite a few plastic panels with spray cans and its quite easy to get a good finish. The biggest problem I think you'll have is finding an exact paint match, so you might have to visit Mr Halfords and have a wonder round the paint on the shelf. Alternatively they can mix if you get the paint code. Take a look at VW Techno Blue as that looks to be quite close.

Firstly, repairing the damaged farings. Sand down with coarse (80 grit) wet and dry to take the ridges off. Leave to dry and apply body filler (Go for smooth finish if available) and sand with progressively finer wet and dry, finishing off with 1200 grit. The surface should feel perfectly smooth before you paint. Spray 2 light coats of grey primer, leaving 10 mins between coats and then leave for 4 hrs to harden. Inspect the finish, it should be perfectly smooth. If not, you might need to sand and fill again. When your happy with primer coat, sand lightly with 1200 grit wet and dry and apply about 5 layers of top coat to fully cover all the grey, lightly to build the colour up. Leave 10 mins between coats and 24 hrs to harden. When your done the finish will feel rough to the touch so now for the secret bit... Take some 1200 grit wet and dry and rub soap into it. Very lightly rub over the paint just a few times to flatten the surface. Wash the paint and leave to dry, it should now feel smooth. T-Cut lightly and then apply a good coat of auto-glym polish or similar

Follow the same procedure for the new red faring but you might need to apply several more coats of primer to cover the red. Dont spray the blue until all the red has been covered.

I reckon the cost will be something like...

Halfords wet and dry multipack - £3.00
Blue paint - £6.00
Grey primer - £6.00
T-Cut - £5.00
Auto-glym - £6.00

So about £25 should cover the lot.

Take your time with the spray cans. Spray from about 12 inches and move quite quickly over the panel..

Best of luck
Stu
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

Phoenix
Twisted Firestarter



Joined: 01 Aug 2002
Karma :

PostPosted: 20:29 - 19 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd personally avoid halfords paints, the finish is not as good as other paint suppliers and the aerosol heads do not spray particularly well, often spitting out blobs. I get my paint from Auto Paint St Helens, it's cheap and they can do absolutely any colour from codes or Pantone/RGB numbers and the spray from the nozzles is fine and consistent.

You will definitely have to spend some time filling those flat sections as it looks like you've lost a fair bit of plastic and it probably won't look right after just 1 fill, it'll become obvious when you prime it after the first filler layer. Personally I also add lacquer after painting, aerosol paint is not that hard unlike proper paint and scratches and marks more easily so the lacquer adds some more depth to polish out any marks you get in it over time.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

stuartadair
Crazy Courier



Joined: 15 Oct 2009
Karma :

PostPosted: 07:38 - 20 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, I've always found Halfords paints to be ok but it's all down to preference I guess.

Good advice about the laquor.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

ZRX61
Victor Meldrew



Joined: 05 Nov 2003
Karma :

PostPosted: 18:56 - 20 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

stuartadair wrote:
Firstly, repairing the damaged farings. Sand down with coarse (80 grit) wet and dry to take the ridges off. Leave to dry and apply body filler (Go for smooth finish if available) and sand with progressively finer wet and dry, finishing off with 360 grit. The surface should feel perfectly smooth before you paint. Spray 2 light coats of grey primer, leaving 10 mins between coats and then leave for 4 hrs to harden. Inspect the finish, it should be perfectly smooth. If not, you might need to sand and fill again. When your happy with primer coat, sand lightly with 500 grit wet and dry and apply about 5 layers of top coat to fully cover all the grey, lightly to build the colour up. Leave 10 mins between coats and 24 hrs to harden. When your done the finish will feel rough to the touch so now for the secret bit... Take some 1200 grit wet and dry and rub soap into it. Very lightly rub over the paint just a few times to flatten the surface. Wash the paint and leave to dry, it should now feel smooth. Do NOT use T-Cut Follow the same procedure for the new red faring but you might need to apply several more coats of primer to cover the red. Dont spray the blue until all the red has been covered.

I reckon the cost will be something like...

Halfords wet and dry multipack - £3.00
Blue paint - £6.00
Grey primer - £6.00
T-Cut - £5.00
Auto-glym - £6.00

So about £25 should cover the lot.

Take your time with the spray cans. Spray from about 12 inches and move quite quickly over the panel..

Best of luck
Stu


Fixed the bad advice... Wink
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

stuartadair
Crazy Courier



Joined: 15 Oct 2009
Karma :

PostPosted: 19:21 - 20 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sir I beg to differ...

1200 grit is finer than 500 grit and will produce a finer finish.

A light application of T cut will ensure that the paint finish is again perfectly smooth
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

ZRX61
Victor Meldrew



Joined: 05 Nov 2003
Karma :

PostPosted: 19:31 - 20 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

stuartadair wrote:
Sir I beg to differ...

1200 grit is finer than 500 grit and will produce a finer finish.

A light application of T cut will ensure that the paint finish is again perfectly smooth


You have to get it smooth.. while still giving it enough teeth for the next layer to stick. 1200 is too fine. You'l be able to peel the paint off in sheets.

TCrap is basically mud in a can. i&'s utter shit & leaves the finish looking like an abortion.

& I might just know a bit more about this than you... Wink

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v317/ZRX61/Cobra52307006.jpg
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

Frost
World Chat Champion



Joined: 26 May 2004
Karma :

PostPosted: 19:45 - 20 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

stuartadair wrote:
Sir I beg to differ...

1200 grit is finer than 500 grit and will produce a finer finish.

A light application of T cut will ensure that the paint finish is again perfectly smooth


1200 grit is too smooth. If you completely flat the primer the paint has nothing to bond to and the colour will come off too easily.

T cut is like using 4000 grit, again too fine and it leaves behind a residue that must be washed off, and water is a major major pain in the ass when spraying.


Phoenix wrote:
You will definitely have to spend some time filling those flat sections as it looks like you've lost a fair bit of plastic and it probably won't look right after just 1 fill, it'll become obvious when you prime it after the first filler layer.


I second this. Sanding down that plastic will just make it furr up, using body filler is the best way to do. You can use coarse grit (80-120) to shape the filler before you start to prep it for primer. It will look perfect, you will give it a coat of primer and it will look bollocks, so keep going till its okay. Remember paint doesn't hide problems, it exaggerates them.

Phoenix wrote:
Personally I also add lacquer after painting, aerosol paint is not that hard unlike proper paint and scratches and marks more easily so the lacquer adds some more depth to polish out any marks you get in it over time.


Again agreed, laquer makes the paint look a bit better, but mostly its a scratch protector. Scratch paint and you'll be seeing primer, filler and plastic. Scratch laquer and you can polish or repair it.


Last edited by Frost on 19:50 - 20 Jul 2010; edited 1 time in total
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

tutton
World Chat Champion



Joined: 04 Jan 2008
Karma :

PostPosted: 19:50 - 20 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

hijack
zrx61,
Ford frozen white, can buy in 2k gloss or just a 2k which will need a topcoat?
How resistant to petrol will the 2k gloss (no laquer) be?
____________________
Past: '05 Peugeot XPS '99 Aprillia RS125 '94 FZR600R
Current: '02 ZX636 A1P '51 CCM R30
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

ZRX61
Victor Meldrew



Joined: 05 Nov 2003
Karma :

PostPosted: 20:06 - 20 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Phoenix wrote:
Personally I also add lacquer after painting, aerosol paint is not that hard unlike proper paint and scratches and marks more easily so the lacquer adds some more depth to polish out any marks you get in it over time.


Aerosol paint is WAY harder than *proper* paint, thats why it's so easily damaged.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

ZRX61
Victor Meldrew



Joined: 05 Nov 2003
Karma :

PostPosted: 20:09 - 20 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

tutton wrote:
hijack
zrx61,
Ford frozen white, can buy in 2k gloss or just a 2k which will need a topcoat?
How resistant to petrol will the 2k gloss (no laquer) be?

Should be fine...We use single stage 2k on aircraft & the stains just wipe off.. if not left too long
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

tutton
World Chat Champion



Joined: 04 Jan 2008
Karma :

PostPosted: 20:10 - 20 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Coolio, will order it tommorow morning ready, other thing thats niggling me is whether the decals are going to peel off without a topcoat sealing em in..
____________________
Past: '05 Peugeot XPS '99 Aprillia RS125 '94 FZR600R
Current: '02 ZX636 A1P '51 CCM R30
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

stuartadair
Crazy Courier



Joined: 15 Oct 2009
Karma :

PostPosted: 21:25 - 20 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="ZRX61"]

& I might just know a bit more about this than you... Wink
[quote]

Laughing yep, reckon you might just - but 1200 grit and T cut works for me, so there Folded arms

Very Happy
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

ZRX61
Victor Meldrew



Joined: 05 Nov 2003
Karma :

PostPosted: 21:52 - 20 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

stuartadair wrote:
1200 grit and T cut works for me, so there Folded arms

Very Happy


It may work for you, but the paint isn't adhered to whatever you think it's stuck to.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

jaxgals
Derestricted Danger



Joined: 16 May 2010
Karma :

PostPosted: 12:38 - 21 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

great post ..... i have a spare tank and panels for my zx that need a respray i was wondering the best way of taking the decals off the tank and the stickers on the side panels any advice would be welcomed Thumbs Up
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

bosh31
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 21 Jul 2010
Karma :

PostPosted: 20:25 - 21 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

i followed the same process and now its come to the top coat its all cracking and going blotchy like someone has dribbled wax on it or something Sad

its looking ok after about 8 coats but still all cracking Sad
____________________
move over my sinnis apache is coming through!
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

ZRX61
Victor Meldrew



Joined: 05 Nov 2003
Karma :

PostPosted: 00:37 - 22 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

bosh31 wrote:
i followed the same process and now its come to the top coat its all cracking and going blotchy like someone has dribbled wax on it or something Sad

its looking ok after about 8 coats but still all cracking Sad


Define "top coat"
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

ZRX61
Victor Meldrew



Joined: 05 Nov 2003
Karma :

PostPosted: 00:38 - 22 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

jaxgals wrote:
great post ..... i have a spare tank and panels for my zx that need a respray i was wondering the best way of taking the decals off the tank and the stickers on the side panels any advice would be welcomed Thumbs Up


Heat gun & razor blade
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

tutton
World Chat Champion



Joined: 04 Jan 2008
Karma :

PostPosted: 07:56 - 22 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

the current kwak ones wouldnt come up with a heatgun.
just lost my patience and sanded em out with a 180 grit lol!
____________________
Past: '05 Peugeot XPS '99 Aprillia RS125 '94 FZR600R
Current: '02 ZX636 A1P '51 CCM R30
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

jaxgals
Derestricted Danger



Joined: 16 May 2010
Karma :

PostPosted: 13:24 - 22 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

ZRX61 wrote:
jaxgals wrote:
great post ..... i have a spare tank and panels for my zx that need a respray i was wondering the best way of taking the decals off the tank and the stickers on the side panels any advice would be welcomed Thumbs Up


Heat gun & razor blade



its the ones under the clear coat on the tank i was thinking of more ....maybe its just a case of a bit of elbow grease and sand em out
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

bosh31
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 21 Jul 2010
Karma :

PostPosted: 18:16 - 22 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

ZRX61 wrote:
bosh31 wrote:
i followed the same process and now its come to the top coat its all cracking and going blotchy like someone has dribbled wax on it or something Sad

its looking ok after about 8 coats but still all cracking Sad


Define "top coat"


well i rubbed the panels down, with paper and then rubbing compound, then i gave them two coats of primer (plastic panels btw) rubbed down inbetween. then i gave them top coats (matt black) and rubed down between each coat.

looks ok just looking at the bike but close up if you look close you can see all the cracks and one panel has wrinkled up in one place.

EDIT: some of it is just fine great cover and smooth! confused
____________________
move over my sinnis apache is coming through!
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

ZRX61
Victor Meldrew



Joined: 05 Nov 2003
Karma :

PostPosted: 18:41 - 22 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

bosh31 wrote:

well i rubbed the panels down, with paper and then rubbing compound, then i gave them two coats of primer (plastic panels btw) rubbed down inbetween. then i gave them top coats (matt black) and rubed down between each coat.

looks ok just looking at the bike but close up if you look close you can see all the cracks and one panel has wrinkled up in one place.

EDIT: some of it is just fine great cover and smooth! confused

Why were you using rubbing compound at that stage? Looks like you managed to contaminate at that stage with wax and/or silicon from the rubbing compound & everything after that was wasted effort.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

Frost
World Chat Champion



Joined: 26 May 2004
Karma :

PostPosted: 19:05 - 22 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rubbing compound shouldn't be used between sprayings of primer.

The goal is to get the right shape with filler, spraying primer on makes the colour more uniform allowing you to see imperfections more easily.

Next you want primer covering everything with a completely even surface. Sanding at the primer can get rid of tiny imperfections, but won't cover up a shitty job with the filler.

You want to spray the colour onto an even and slightly rough surface, probably something done with about 600-800 grit, any lower and scratches will be visible, and higher and the paint won't stick. Using T-cut, or rubbing compound at this stage leave the primer too smooth for the paint to stick. Anything that leave behind a residue such as water will also fuck up the paint.

Once it's coloured (doesn't need much colour) you can fix any tiny tiny imperfections before lacquering. Dribbles and runs in the lacquer should be avoided, and left well alone if they occur. Once the lacquer has fully hardened they can be sanded out and then the lacquer polished.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

bosh31
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 21 Jul 2010
Karma :

PostPosted: 00:04 - 23 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok that great thanks. i only used the rubbing compound at the begining just after i used paper. just on the plastic i never sprayed before.

i was gonna use laquer but my freind said not as i was going for the matt finish not a gloss finish. is this right?
____________________
move over my sinnis apache is coming through!
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

johnsmith222
World Chat Champion



Joined: 26 Dec 2008
Karma :

PostPosted: 05:08 - 23 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys, you have all provided me with great info to fully prepare myself in getting the best finish possible.

Unfortunately the upper fairing costs a lot of money,and I don't really have the confidence to respray it in case it goes wrong.

I'm on the lookout for cheap fairing lowers. It's a pity I didn't snap up the one the same guy was selling at the same time. It means I won't have to do any repairs and if it goes tits up then I've always got the damaged panels if they look better.

Your help is really appreciated. I may start getting into painting bikes as a hobby.

Let's hope it isn't something I NEED to do too often though. Laughing

Does anyone have an opinion on the W piece (the silver bit going across the side. It's a piece of thin plastic shaped in a W)

Also, this might sound weird but is there a way of fading paint as my other panels will have faded? (although they still look pretty strong tbh).

thanks.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts
Old Thread Alert!

The last post was made 15 years, 184 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
  Display posts from previous:   
This page may contain affiliate links, which means we may earn a small commission if a visitor clicks through and makes a purchase. By clicking on an affiliate link, you accept that third-party cookies will be set.

Post new topic   Reply to topic    Bike Chat Forums Index -> The Workshop All times are GMT
Page 1 of 1

 
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
You cannot attach files in this forum
You cannot download files in this forum

Read the Terms of Use! - Powered by phpBB © phpBB Group
 

Debug Mode: ON - Server: birks (www) - Page Generation Time: 0.11 Sec - Server Load: 0.48 - MySQL Queries: 14 - Page Size: 131.54 Kb