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| johnsmith222 |
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 johnsmith222 World Chat Champion
Joined: 26 Dec 2008 Karma :   
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 Posted: 14:12 - 19 Jul 2010 Post subject: Painting Panels? |
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Hi.
I was wondering if anyone can give me some tips or just plain tell me not to bother if it will look shit.
I am wanting to get into painting plastics to sort out the damage that I have done to my bike. I guess for the 200 quid I would rather spend that money on equipment and practice rather than getting it resprayed by someone else.
Would I be able to improve things a lot quite cheaply?
This is what I have to work with. I have already bought another fairing midsection in red for 6 quid. That means if it looks worse than the panel on there then I always have the fucked panel if it looks any better.
I just want the three panels to be the same blue and try and get some stickers to put back on.
Thanks a lot for any tips.
https://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a324/david_m213/DSC00406.jpg?t=1279548644
https://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a324/david_m213/DSC00405.jpg?t=1279548666
Should I take all the red paint off of that cheap panel I have before it gets painted?
Also, do I need a really expensive compressor to do a decent job? I'm just wanting to paint it the one blue colour.
How would I go about getting the right colour?
Thanks guys! it's greatly appreciated. |
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| stuartadair |
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 stuartadair Crazy Courier

Joined: 15 Oct 2009 Karma :  
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 Posted: 20:06 - 19 Jul 2010 Post subject: |
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Hiya,
I've painted quite a few plastic panels with spray cans and its quite easy to get a good finish. The biggest problem I think you'll have is finding an exact paint match, so you might have to visit Mr Halfords and have a wonder round the paint on the shelf. Alternatively they can mix if you get the paint code. Take a look at VW Techno Blue as that looks to be quite close.
Firstly, repairing the damaged farings. Sand down with coarse (80 grit) wet and dry to take the ridges off. Leave to dry and apply body filler (Go for smooth finish if available) and sand with progressively finer wet and dry, finishing off with 1200 grit. The surface should feel perfectly smooth before you paint. Spray 2 light coats of grey primer, leaving 10 mins between coats and then leave for 4 hrs to harden. Inspect the finish, it should be perfectly smooth. If not, you might need to sand and fill again. When your happy with primer coat, sand lightly with 1200 grit wet and dry and apply about 5 layers of top coat to fully cover all the grey, lightly to build the colour up. Leave 10 mins between coats and 24 hrs to harden. When your done the finish will feel rough to the touch so now for the secret bit... Take some 1200 grit wet and dry and rub soap into it. Very lightly rub over the paint just a few times to flatten the surface. Wash the paint and leave to dry, it should now feel smooth. T-Cut lightly and then apply a good coat of auto-glym polish or similar
Follow the same procedure for the new red faring but you might need to apply several more coats of primer to cover the red. Dont spray the blue until all the red has been covered.
I reckon the cost will be something like...
Halfords wet and dry multipack - £3.00
Blue paint - £6.00
Grey primer - £6.00
T-Cut - £5.00
Auto-glym - £6.00
So about £25 should cover the lot.
Take your time with the spray cans. Spray from about 12 inches and move quite quickly over the panel..
Best of luck
Stu |
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| Phoenix |
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 Phoenix Twisted Firestarter

Joined: 01 Aug 2002 Karma :    
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| stuartadair |
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 stuartadair Crazy Courier

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| ZRX61 |
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 ZRX61 Victor Meldrew
Joined: 05 Nov 2003 Karma :  
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| stuartadair |
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 stuartadair Crazy Courier

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| ZRX61 |
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 ZRX61 Victor Meldrew
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| Frost |
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 Frost World Chat Champion

Joined: 26 May 2004 Karma :  
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 Posted: 19:45 - 20 Jul 2010 Post subject: |
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| stuartadair wrote: | Sir I beg to differ...
1200 grit is finer than 500 grit and will produce a finer finish.
A light application of T cut will ensure that the paint finish is again perfectly smooth |
1200 grit is too smooth. If you completely flat the primer the paint has nothing to bond to and the colour will come off too easily.
T cut is like using 4000 grit, again too fine and it leaves behind a residue that must be washed off, and water is a major major pain in the ass when spraying.
| Phoenix wrote: | You will definitely have to spend some time filling those flat sections as it looks like you've lost a fair bit of plastic and it probably won't look right after just 1 fill, it'll become obvious when you prime it after the first filler layer. |
I second this. Sanding down that plastic will just make it furr up, using body filler is the best way to do. You can use coarse grit (80-120) to shape the filler before you start to prep it for primer. It will look perfect, you will give it a coat of primer and it will look bollocks, so keep going till its okay. Remember paint doesn't hide problems, it exaggerates them.
| Phoenix wrote: | Personally I also add lacquer after painting, aerosol paint is not that hard unlike proper paint and scratches and marks more easily so the lacquer adds some more depth to polish out any marks you get in it over time. |
Again agreed, laquer makes the paint look a bit better, but mostly its a scratch protector. Scratch paint and you'll be seeing primer, filler and plastic. Scratch laquer and you can polish or repair it.
Last edited by Frost on 19:50 - 20 Jul 2010; edited 1 time in total |
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| tutton |
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 tutton World Chat Champion

Joined: 04 Jan 2008 Karma :   
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| ZRX61 |
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 ZRX61 Victor Meldrew
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| ZRX61 |
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 ZRX61 Victor Meldrew
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| tutton |
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 tutton World Chat Champion

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| stuartadair |
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 stuartadair Crazy Courier

Joined: 15 Oct 2009 Karma :  
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 Posted: 21:25 - 20 Jul 2010 Post subject: |
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[quote="ZRX61"]
& I might just know a bit more about this than you...
[quote]
yep, reckon you might just - but 1200 grit and T cut works for me, so there
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| ZRX61 |
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 ZRX61 Victor Meldrew
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| jaxgals |
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 jaxgals Derestricted Danger
Joined: 16 May 2010 Karma :  
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 Posted: 12:38 - 21 Jul 2010 Post subject: |
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great post ..... i have a spare tank and panels for my zx that need a respray i was wondering the best way of taking the decals off the tank and the stickers on the side panels any advice would be welcomed  |
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| bosh31 |
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 bosh31 L Plate Warrior
Joined: 21 Jul 2010 Karma :   
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 Posted: 20:25 - 21 Jul 2010 Post subject: |
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i followed the same process and now its come to the top coat its all cracking and going blotchy like someone has dribbled wax on it or something
its looking ok after about 8 coats but still all cracking  ____________________ move over my sinnis apache is coming through! |
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| ZRX61 |
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 ZRX61 Victor Meldrew
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| ZRX61 |
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 ZRX61 Victor Meldrew
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| tutton |
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 tutton World Chat Champion

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| jaxgals |
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 jaxgals Derestricted Danger
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| bosh31 |
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 bosh31 L Plate Warrior
Joined: 21 Jul 2010 Karma :   
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| ZRX61 |
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 ZRX61 Victor Meldrew
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| Frost |
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 Frost World Chat Champion

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| bosh31 |
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 bosh31 L Plate Warrior
Joined: 21 Jul 2010 Karma :   
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| johnsmith222 |
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 johnsmith222 World Chat Champion
Joined: 26 Dec 2008 Karma :   
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 Posted: 05:08 - 23 Jul 2010 Post subject: |
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Thanks guys, you have all provided me with great info to fully prepare myself in getting the best finish possible.
Unfortunately the upper fairing costs a lot of money,and I don't really have the confidence to respray it in case it goes wrong.
I'm on the lookout for cheap fairing lowers. It's a pity I didn't snap up the one the same guy was selling at the same time. It means I won't have to do any repairs and if it goes tits up then I've always got the damaged panels if they look better.
Your help is really appreciated. I may start getting into painting bikes as a hobby.
Let's hope it isn't something I NEED to do too often though.
Does anyone have an opinion on the W piece (the silver bit going across the side. It's a piece of thin plastic shaped in a W)
Also, this might sound weird but is there a way of fading paint as my other panels will have faded? (although they still look pretty strong tbh).
thanks. |
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 15 years, 184 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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