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Cylinder head removal

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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 09:01 - 09 Sep 2010    Post subject: Cylinder head removal Reply with quote

Hi, how difficult is it to remove the cylinder head on a 600cc IL4 (CBR 600F 2001)? Presumably a new gasket is essential?

Various attempts of persuading a header (edit: exhaust) stud to come out have failed and I don't really trust myself to drill it out straight enough with the engine still in the bike. I was thinking of removing the head, taking that to a engineering company and having it drilled out/helicoiled by someone else.

It could probably be drilled out on the bike, but my less than perfect drilling skills make this difficult. If I were to move it to a garage, are they likely to remove the front wheel and drill it out in the bike or feck around getting the head off and onto a pillar drill?


Last edited by DrDonnyBrago on 10:05 - 09 Sep 2010; edited 1 time in total
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Itchy
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PostPosted: 09:16 - 09 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

You mean an exhaust stud?

Depends on just how hard they are stuck in tbh...

I drilled out two snapped ones, but this was after I had copper greased them and also used a tap and die set to clean the threads of the old ones. I removed the front wheel (easy) and crouched into the small space to drill them out. The key is to go very very slowly so that you can see the drill bit going round and round and some good quality bits also.

https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=148552&

If you destroy the bolt/threads helicoil it. I believe Gman had something similar on his CBR where peter drilled it out while still in the bike (the engine)
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el_oso
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PostPosted: 09:50 - 09 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

not really going from experience of your bike, but removing the cylinder head is a pretty easy task. just lengthy
take the rocker cover off
take off your cams
undo 6/8/10 bolts that hold your cylinder head on. remove any other tubes/connections from the head, and lift away (without dropping the cam chain)

problems you may encounter and need to figure out for yourself or wait until someone has done this on your bike
1. water cooled, can be a lot of stuff to take off before you can get to the head.
2. does the cylinder head come off while still in the bike or does the frame get in the way?
3. you will need a new gasket and they are not that cheap
4. putting the head back on can be a pain in the arse. for bucket and shims you need to remember what holes each bucket came from.
5. re-doing timing can be a bit of a pain in the arse if you haven't done it before. once you have timed it up and you believe it is ok. turn the crank round a few times by with a spanner/ratchet and make sure nothing is hitting anyything else.

personally. (i am assuming you mean exhaust stud btw) that you would like them to drill the stud out while the engine is in the bike.
another point to add is that it is probably easier to drop the engine out the bike instead of trying to remove the head
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 09:51 - 09 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Itchy wrote:
You mean an exhaust stud?

Depends on just how hard they are stuck in tbh...

I drilled out two snapped ones, but this was after I had copper greased them and also used a tap and die set to clean the threads of the old ones. I removed the front wheel (easy) and crouched into the small space to drill them out. The key is to go very very slowly so that you can see the drill bit going round and round and some good quality bits also.

https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=148552&

If you destroy the bolt/threads helicoil it. I believe Gman had something similar on his CBR where peter drilled it out while still in the bike (the engine)


Yeah exhaust studs, they are well and truly stuck. These are the original ones that snapped off as I was removing them so the thoughtful addition of copper grease to make this easier has been overlooked by Mr Honda. If I drilled it then I imagine that the stud would remain in the threads until every last bit had been removed by a drill, meaning a retap Sad .

I hadn't considered that they may all snap again as I put new studs back in... woo Thumbs Down . I noticed you had the same issue as me with getting the old gaskets out, did you eventually hammer a screwdriver into the gasket itself or between the exhaust port and the gasket from the side? I've been trying to avoid damaging the head and as a result the gaskets are still stuck in there.


I have a mechanic I know nearby but he is proving rather difficult to pin down .
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Itchy
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PostPosted: 09:58 - 09 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

DonnyBrago wrote:

Yeah exhaust studs, they are well and truly stuck. These are the original ones that snapped off as I was removing them so the thoughtful addition of copper grease to make this easier has been overlooked by Mr Honda. If I drilled it then I imagine that the stud would remain in the threads until every last bit had been removed by a drill, meaning a retap Sad .

I hadn't considered that they may all snap again as I put new studs back in... woo Thumbs Down . I noticed you had the same issue as me with getting the old gaskets out, did you eventually hammer a screwdriver into the gasket itself or between the exhaust port and the gasket from the side? I've been trying to avoid damaging the head and as a result the gaskets are still stuck in there.


I have a mechanic I know nearby but he is proving rather difficult to pin down .




I put the screw driver on the outer edge of the exhaust port, between the wall and the gasket itself and levered them out. I made a few dents in the edge of the port which were tiny
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 10:04 - 09 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

the_godfather wrote:


5. re-doing timing can be a bit of a pain in the arse if you haven't done it before. once you have timed it up and you believe it is ok. turn the crank round a few times by with a spanner/ratchet and make sure nothing is hitting anyything else.

personally. (i am assuming you mean exhaust stud btw) that you would like them to drill the stud out while the engine is in the bike.
another point to add is that it is probably easier to drop the engine out the bike instead of trying to remove the head


Thanks. Yeah I would prefer to drop the engine but in this bike the engine is a stressed member, this would mean removing the swingarm and finding a novel way to support a bike with no swingarm in a garage with no overhead rafters... Then I'd probably end up dropping it or something.
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Casper
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PostPosted: 23:35 - 09 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you take the head of and the rocker cover, loosen bolts in a sequence or you run the risk of warping. Manual will tell you the sequence for your model. 1/4 turn a bolt and then the farthest away tends to be the norm but doble check manual for your bike. Same goes for assembly.
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Digit
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PostPosted: 16:49 - 10 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

From one who has suffered, always attempt to remove the nuts or studs whilst the engine is hot!

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Pete.
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PostPosted: 17:58 - 10 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you thought about taking it to an engineering company and asking them to drill the broken parts out in-situ? They might have a go at it with no guarantees but some people are very handy with a pistol-drill. I'd say the chances of success would be quite high if I attempted it myself.
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