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Gap between Downpipes and Silencer pipe Bandit 600

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dragstaar
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Joined: 18 Aug 2010
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PostPosted: 17:43 - 28 Sep 2010    Post subject: Gap between Downpipes and Silencer pipe Bandit 600 Reply with quote

Right, i've done some searches on here for a possible solution, and all of the situtations and circumstances i read about are slightly different to mine (or so it seems to my untrained mind!) so i shall run the risk of asking again!

I have an aftermarket exhaust, and the pipe is too small for the downpipe. A new gasket, however, is too big, because the mechanic told me that someone has cut away the 'lip' on the end of the downpipe where the clamp sits. So i got a 2-3mm gap running all the way around the pipe where it sits in the downpipe. I need to seal it, and i was wondering whether the exhaust gunk would hold it? or if i could just wrap the end in aluminium foil and jam it in?

I understand a new set of headers would be the best option, but my wallet will slap me if i even think about that!

help will be much appreciated![img][/img]
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Yetiboy
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Joined: 13 Sep 2010
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PostPosted: 18:53 - 28 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, the gunk won't work for long an either will the foil. I'd look on eBay or in a breakers yard for another section because you'll just get stressed out with it blowing all the time. Do it once do it right.
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deleted111
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PostPosted: 19:06 - 28 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi,

As above really, either splash out on another section or try get one from a breakers yard. Spend the money once and get it sorted, or spend repeatedly for bodge jobs.

I know which one I'd choose mate.

Cheers,

Steve.
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Dazbo666
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Joined: 06 Jun 2004
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PostPosted: 19:06 - 28 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes you can try using exhaust putty, exhaust bandages etc etc, but don't expect it to work as anything other than a short term bodge.
I tried something similar with the original downpipes on my old GPZ, and the putty and bandages etc only ever lasted for a couple of weeks of daily riding at the most.
The ongoing frustration, plus 3 or 4 bodge jobs later and I eventually cut my losses and got a set of stainless downpipes - relatively cheap thru fleabay Thumbs Up Good luck
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0l0dom0l0
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PostPosted: 19:15 - 28 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

best bet is to make yourself a connector pipe. ie a spacer with the two different dimensions on either side.
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Dazbo666
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PostPosted: 19:35 - 28 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

do you know anyone thats got access to a welder, and preferably a certain amount of skill??
maybe you could get a step-down / transitional connector pipe made up??
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mad4it028
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PostPosted: 21:24 - 28 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

unashamed plug but i can do you a good price on these if it helps?
https://cgi.ebay.co.uk/gsf600-bandit-k-stainless-down-pipes-mk2-/270641952381?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3f0384767d
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GSF Jamie 600
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Joined: 17 Oct 2008
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PostPosted: 21:28 - 28 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

make a gasket out of beer cans!
job done Thumbs Up
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dragstaar
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Joined: 18 Aug 2010
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PostPosted: 00:09 - 29 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do beer cans actually work? how do i go about doing this? do i just use loads of old cut up tin? and do i need to bond it with anything?

and i read about some silicone sealant to pump in there. people were saying normal silicone sealant will do the trick, but this was for a car, however. Are things different on a bike? considering that it comes into contact with water etc.

Those downpipes are a bit out of my budget. besides, i have a 2000 model bandit, will they fit? how much will you charge?
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radical
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PostPosted: 00:23 - 29 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

This gear will do the deed, has been tried and tested and is the dogs nads, will work up to 300 celcius and can be bought from good plumbing and heating oulets. I have used this and it works well on gaps and general sealing but remains flexible so is very suitable for your needs. https://cgi.ebay.co.uk/HIGH-TEMPERATURE-HEATMATE-SILICONE-SEALANT-BLACK-/140452188472?pt=UK_Home_Garden_Kitchen_Ovens_Hobs_Cookers&hash=item20b39a5138
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Casper
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PostPosted: 10:46 - 29 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I take it the silencer has a welded on fixing point. Get a wrap around fixing strap for silencer so you can ram it in the downpipe further and seal up with gum gum or something
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Mr Hammers
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PostPosted: 11:17 - 29 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had a similar problem when the end of my downpipes basically disappeared in a puff of rust. Tried aluminium foil, didn't work (just turns it into paper!) and Gun Gum (fine at first, then breaks up and falls out) so in the end I got a piece of car exhaust which was much smaller, cut a slit in it, opened it up, welded a strip into the (now bigger) gap and welded that to the existing downpipe.

Did it so it only just fitted into the end can pipe, and that, with a bit of GunGum has worked fine.

If you don't have a welder, and are anywhere near Oxford you're welcome to bring it down and I can weld it for you.
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0ddball
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PostPosted: 11:18 - 29 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

If i'm understanding the problem correctly you might be able to get the smaller pipe flared a couple of mil by somewhere that makes custom exhausts.
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dragstaar
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PostPosted: 15:59 - 29 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm in london unfortunately, but thank you very much for your offer Mr Hammer, nice to see that people dont mind giving a hand.

I've had a look into the option of welding another lip/flange thingy, spoke to one of my local workshops and they said they'd do it for an hours labour, which seems fair enough. I think thats £50 quid that may be well invested.

However, i am intrigued by this flaring option, but my only concern is that i'll have to flare each exhaust i ever get wont i?
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