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Cam chain tensioners about to fail?

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TUG
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PostPosted: 22:25 - 23 Sep 2010    Post subject: Cam chain tensioners about to fail? Reply with quote

Can this cause intermittent cuting out or will i have a bent valve or 2? How do i check for bent valves with no compression guage?

I've put 2 bolts with nuts on to stop the plungers retracting but i fear it might be too late?
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Casper
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PostPosted: 22:42 - 23 Sep 2010    Post subject: Re: Cam chain tensioners about to fail? Reply with quote

TUG wrote:
Can this cause intermittent cuting out or will i have a bent valve or 2? How do i check for bent valves with no compression guage?

I've put 2 bolts with nuts on to stop the plungers retracting but i fear it might be too late?


Your valvs should be safe. Bike will run a bit rough and rattle but thats about it.
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radical
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PostPosted: 22:45 - 23 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

If your valves are bent the bike will not run worth a damn, if at all.
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TUG
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PostPosted: 23:13 - 23 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Best order up those manual cam chain tensioners then lol
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SirEdward
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PostPosted: 05:50 - 24 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

You'll be hearing increasingly frequent clicking noise when revving up if the cams are done for.
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TUG
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PostPosted: 11:36 - 24 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

SirEdward wrote:
You'll be hearing increasingly frequent clicking noise when revving up if the cams are done for.

Does click like mad at 3000rpm onwards when the bike is underload and overrun.
clicking is pressent from rear cylinder at tick over but gets worse as revs hit 3000rpm-4000rpm then goes away so i'm assuming its just cam chain ticking i can hear?
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 11:41 - 24 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Shouldn't stop it running or cause it to cut out. The cam chain tensioner just tensions the cam chain which will have virtually no effect on it running (bit of noise from the chain slapping around maybe) until the chain jumps a tooth or more (at which point if you are lucky it will run badly, and if you are unlucky it will bend a load of the valves).

If the valves are bent then they will not shut so you should have very wide clearances on those valves.

Why can't they manage anymore to make a one way tensioner that lasts for a reasonable length of time. Not like they have much movement to put up with.

All the best

Keith
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TUG
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PostPosted: 11:48 - 24 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I dont know kickstart, they "fixed" it with a ratchet system but if it didnt hit the tooth propperly it wears it down and then rattles about as the spring has started to fail.
It not really running too good atm tick over has dropped to 1k instead of 1200rpm i set it too unless one of the choke needles is stuck again? i don't know.

I pulled a wheelie, landed then my bike cut out, thats how all this started, my bike had choke on at the time.

The only thing i could find on my electrics was a short at the rear indicators and blue oxidation on the starter relay plug and even that wasnt so bad.

I'm getting very worried now Sad
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 12:12 - 24 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Just remembered it is a VTR1000 so a V twin, so I assume that the loading on the tensioner is a bit larger and more variable than with a 4.

Suppose it is possible that one bank has jumped a tooth. Whether that will bend a valve comes down to the exact design (just like some cars can snap a cam belt without bending the valves).

How easy is it to get the rocker covers off the VTR to check the cam timing and clearances?

Proper design of ratchet there shouldn't really be any movement to wear things out.

All the best

Keith
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Acemastr
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PostPosted: 12:22 - 24 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pulling wheelies with choke on? I'd assume (ass) that the bike would be cold if you had choke on?
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TUG
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PostPosted: 12:28 - 24 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Acemastr wrote:
Pulling wheelies with choke on? I'd assume (ass) that the bike would be cold if you had choke on?

You are correct sir, i guess the ass was in relation to me?
At which i'd say fair point i really shouldn't off but if its a failed CCT its not hydraulic etc so wheelies and the likes shouldn't factor into whats happened. Embarassed
The front head needs alot of work but the rear (the one making the most noise) is easy.
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Acemastr
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PostPosted: 12:31 - 27 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

the ass was for me assuming :p
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TUG
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PostPosted: 20:58 - 27 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I need a mechanic on here, my bike rattles, if i tighten up my Cam chain tensioners it gets very quiet almost as if it never existed, go down the road and it comes back?
Now don't get me wrong, i certain its them thats fucked, but which one as they are both the same, no ones ever said that both of them fail at the same time so am i really that unlucky or should i be checking my cams and such?
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Wafer_Thin_Ham
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PostPosted: 08:08 - 28 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's usually the front ones that go on them to be honest.

Why not just buy a pair of manual ones from Debben performance?
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TUG
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PostPosted: 22:36 - 28 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Big_Ham wrote:
It's usually the front ones that go on them to be honest.

Why not just buy a pair of manual ones from Debben performance?

Just ordered a pair for £55 all in.
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TUG
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PostPosted: 11:19 - 05 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fitted them and i think its made it a bit quiter but the sounds still there, my oil is very thin too.
Oh and my bike decided to eat its airbox O-ring. Thanks VTR, you twat.
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Acemastr
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PostPosted: 11:27 - 05 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you have to wind a manual one in? I know it sounds silly but how would you know how far to wind it in? and when to wind it in?
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TUG
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PostPosted: 11:48 - 05 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Same as a fairing screw, you feel it pressing the guide against the chain and apparantly you wind it back out a touch, but its not making a big difference for me.

Am still waiting for my instant gasket to set, Cant believe it sucked its o-ring into the engine.
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 11:56 - 05 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Acemastr wrote:
Do you have to wind a manual one in? I know it sounds silly but how would you know how far to wind it in? and when to wind it in?


IIRC, you wind it in until there is some pressure then a bit less to be sure. They need to be checked and adjusted every now and again or they get slack. Personally, I went with an OEM automatic tensioner on my CBR but I can see the appeal of a manual one when honda refused to figure out how to make a good CCT.

Does anyone know if the newer Hondas are fitted with decent tensioners?
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TUG
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PostPosted: 11:58 - 05 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

They use hydraulic CCT's now donny and they still fail to tension propperly.
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Acemastr
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PostPosted: 14:44 - 05 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm currently in need of one, have been for several months, just wear earplugs now and can't hear it lol.

bloody £70 for one!
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