Scotland, August 2010 Tour write-up

[vindice]

As a thank you for putting up with all the questions over the last few weeks, here’s the write-up of our mini Scotland tour. The Bike was a GSX750 (w), the retro model known outside the UK as an ‘Inazuma’ and known inside the UK as ‘I’m not buying that’. The bike is fairly powerful, with decent low end power, but the ludicrously short seat height and wallowy suspension do not a tourer make.

On said Bike were myself and my wife, who’s never been on a bike for more than half an hour at a time and has never been camping. A lot of the gear was borrowed or new as this was our first time touring two-up.

The basic idea was to head North then south. Simples.

Day 1: Scarborough to Keswick (142 Miles)

We decided to kick things off with a fairly short day. We loaded the bike up and unveiled the Patented Numb Bumb solution as suggested by ANGof, Skudd and others.
https://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l243/vindice13/Scotland004.jpg

We went along the A170 through Pickering and Thirsk – Mrs V tensing at every overtake - and then used the A1 to get us onto the A684 through the Dales. Anyone who hasn’t tried this blast really should. If you get a decent run – which we did, this time – there’s some lovely swooping bends that blast you out of little dips into wide open dales with fantastic scenery.

We stopped for lunch at Hawes, but while waiting for the food in the pub, I noticed that the right hand pannier had been touching the exhaust. Yup, it had burnt a hole.
https://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l243/vindice13/Scotland007.jpg
Singed pants and t-shirts, but no major damage. Undaunted, we continued. We got hit by a massive downpour just as we got into the Lakes and took shelter in a cafe; the rain stayed with us from just outside Kendal, all the way through the lakes. We camped at Thirlspot, just at the foot of Helvellyn and next to the King’s Head pub on the A591. This is a bike friendly campsite attached to a farm; the reason it’s Bike friendly is best explained by the fact that the owner and his wife had just returned from the Brno MotoGP. We put up the tent, a Vango Beta 350. I picked the tent due to the humongous porch area, allowing us to lay out wet gear to dry. The tent proved perfect.

https://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l243/vindice13/HPIM1029.jpg

We set up the tent and retired to the pub. Afterwards we walked along the road and whispered sweet nothings to Llamas who seemed distinctly unimpressed.
https://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l243/vindice13/Scotland020.jpg
Both of us were bit sore and stiff, but Mrs V had a self inflating mat and I had a roll mat. She slept well, I awoke often and with all the flexibility of a week-old corpse.

Day 2: Keswick to Oban (234 Miles)

This was the first big day. We packed up and headed north. The A591 to Keswick is just as good a road as people tell you, with fantastic views to either side and some great spots for overtaking.
The next bit was a mile-munching grind, as we used the M6 and A74(M) to get through Glasgow; after that, we blasted out on the A82. What a brilliant road. I understand that this is starting to get a little samey, but every time I thought I’d found a great road, a few hours later something even better came along. The ride along the side of Loch Lomond was stunning; it just goes on, and on; dark water merging with dark green trees, breaking against a wall of purple-tinged granite edging a series of wide, sweeping bends and tight, technical bends with a few straight blasts thrown in to keep you occupied. Even better, there was no sign of any of the mobile camera vans (I can come back and edit this in a couple of weeks when the letters start to arrive, right?)

Finding the campsite in Oban proved to be a bit difficult. It turned out to be up a tiny gravel track in the hills along the coast to the south. This gravel track – the first time I’d been off tarmac since I learnt to ride a bike up at Low North nigh on twenty years ago – was rendered more interesting by the sheep who seemed to spend their time lazing around on it and showing only the slightest interest in approaching vehicles. I’m almost positive that I saw one of them roll its eyes when it had to move out of the way. The view from the campsite was worth it, though.
https://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l243/vindice13/Scotland024.jpg
https://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l243/vindice13/HPIM1064.jpg

We ate in Oban with some friends at the Ee-Usk seafood restaurant. Mrs V highly recommends the Haddock and chips as the ‘best she’s ever had’. I personally preferred the booty I snagged from the Whisky Shop. It turns out that miniatures are really easy to pack into panniers. I would have cause to regret this discovery before the trip was done.

The trip back along the gravel track in the dark was fun. I had no idea that sheeps’ eyes glowed in the dark like Zoltan, Hound of Dracula.

[vindice]

Day 3: Oban to Inverness (109 Miles)

Sleep was poor. This was because (a) we were pitched on top of a mountain and it was just a bit windy, (b) it was thumping down with rain all night and (c) there was a sheep on the neighbouring hill that had the most ridiculously deep voice. It sounded like Brian Blessed pretending to be a sheep and it kept braying “BAAAAAAAAAAAA. [pause] BAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA” all night like some woolly foghorn.

Putting the tent away was fun, as it kept trying to become a kite. Eventually, we stuffed it into the bag. It was whilst loading the bike that I noticed that the chain looked a bit loose. Closer inspection showed that it was very loose. Very, very, very loose.

Guess what I’d forgotten to pack?

Eventually we found a bike dealership in Oban, Stoddarts. The guy there was a little begrudging, but damn if he didn’t let me use his workshop and tools for five minutes to tighten the chain. Many, many thanks to this top bloke. This was followed by a bacon buttie from a petrol station (welcome to Scotland) and we were on our way.

As we were both very tired, it was a good job that this was a short run. And what a run! A large part of the reason we’d come up here was that Mrs V had always wanted to see Loch Ness. We’d thought that the ride along Loch Lomond was impressive; Loch Ness is black, black water surrounded by mountains. People tell you it’s black, but until you see it, you don’t get it. It looks like Guinness. The A87 along the side of the Loch is magnificent. There were a lot of other bikers headed the other way – nearly all of them on GS’ – but we had huge stretches where we were on our own. The only fly in the ointment was the knocking, whirring noise coming from the chain. No problem, thinks I, and goes to get the lube from the panniers.

Guess what I’d forgotten to pack?

We arrived at the campsite in Inverness, set up and had a quiet evening in, with the bike doubling as a washing line.
https://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l243/vindice13/Scotland027.jpg

Day 4: Inverness and Surrounds

Based on the sound advice in the Rest Days thread, we decided to have a day off. And ended up doing 140-odd miles anyway. After using our camp stove for the creation of a bacon buttie – which I managed to burn – we set off out into the wide world of the Highlands. I bought a self-inflating mat – which turned out to be an inferior model to Mrs V’s much to her amusement – and managed to cadge some white grease to lube the chain from a small garage in Drumnadrochit. We did touristy things, like a cruise on Loch Ness and a visit to Culloden; the National Trust woman at the visitor centre turned out to be a biker and got us a good deal on a cheap membership. Culloden is a very eerie place, and the museum is well worth a visit. On the way back to the campsite, we managed to find a Halfords and picked up a tin of chain lube.

Anyone who likes books, incidentally, needs to go to Leaky’s in Inverness, Scotland’s biggest second hand bookshop. Although I was given a strict spending limit, I ended up with a pile of books to fasten to the back of the bike when we set off the next day.

A bit of route planning, and off to sleep.
https://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l243/vindice13/Scotland029.jpg


Day 5: Inverness to the Borders (201 miles)

Mrs V packed the panniers on this morning while I sorted out the tank bag and the tent. This would have serious repercussions before the day was out. The ride over the Grampians was stunning; there’s simply no other word for it. The A9 is a mix of single lane and dual carriageway through landscape as dramatic as the Pyrenees. It was also bloody cold. For the first time I regretted bringing just some Hood Jeans and waterproofs.
We were making great time on the M9 north of Edinburgh doing x mph, where x would be a number significantly higher than the National Speed Limit, when I saw a police van up ahead. I started to slow down. Mrs V started to tap me on the shoulder. I shouted, “Yes, I’ve seen him!” and continued to slow. Mrs V started to hit me more forcibly. I could, over the wind noise, just hear her screaming, “Pull over!” There was no hard shoulder at this point, so I shook my head.

Wind noise is a funny thing. I could have sworn that she said something silly like, “we’re on fire!”. But that’s just stupid. Right?

The flames engulfing the right hand pannier were two-foot high and starting to lick at the tent and other luggage by the time Mrs V managed to draw my attention to it.

The face of the woman who drove past in the Ford Ka was entertaining, to say the least.

We pulled the burning clothes out of the pannier and beat the flames out at the side of the motorway, singeing our gloves in the process. Having got our breath back, we gingerly drove to the nearby services and assessed the damage.

Now, quick quiz; what’s the stupidest thing to pack at the bottom of a pannier that’s already got singed once? If you answered (a) an aerosol deodorant, you’re ahead of Mrs V on points. The pannier sagged onto the exhaust, heated up and ignited the deodorant, which exploded. This explosion ignited the insect repellent spray, the burning liquid from which set fire to the pannier.

https://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l243/vindice13/HPIM1187.jpg

The smell was interesting, to say the least.

With the help of a couple of bungees, we strapped up the scorched remains of the pannier and set off over the forth bridge and down into the Borders.

We pulled off the road, somewhere south of Peebles, down a tiny little gravel track, and brewed up a cuppa.

https://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l243/vindice13/HPIM1196.jpg
The nice side effect of wild camping being allowed in Scotland is that no-one bats an eyelid to you setting up a temporary rest stop anywhere. I dunno about you, but I’d feel a bit off doing it on a farmer’s track near Helmsley.

The final push got us to the campsite, east of St Mary’s Loch at the end of twenty miles of twisty single-lane B-road, liberally scattered with sheep who showed no inclination to move for a bike. I can’t praise these tiny little roads around the borders enough; you could pretty much aim for Hawick from any direction, take any road you see and be sure of a cracking, challenging run out. The crowning glory was that the Honey Cottage campsite was excellent, with lots of bikers having statics there and offering lots of tea and sympathy and advice on how to remove melted pannier from the exhaust.

Day 6: Home (176 Miles)

More lovely B-roads to Hawick for petrol, and then more single track towards Carter Bar. One note to anyone riding the Borders on a Sunday morning – watch out for tractors. One of them literally ran us off the road, causing a rather impressive tankslapper as we slipped and slid on the wet grass and gravel. Thankfully, I managed to keep control and Mrs V had no idea how close the trip came to an undignified end amongst the sheep-shit.

Just before the border at Carter Bar, Scotland had one little trick up its sleeve. Low-lying cloud.

https://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l243/vindice13/HPIM1228.jpg

It disappeared by the time we got down off the hills, thank god.

In total, we covered 992 miles, which wasn’t bad for a first crack. Things we learnt:

Mrs V actually enjoyed touring and camping
Hard panniers are the way of the future
Remember to pack your basic tools
People, on the whole, are always willing to help you out
A new bike with a less cramped position is a must
Scotland may well be where good bikers go to when they die.

Next stop Ireland at Easter, and Norway with a mate next summer.

Anyone want to buy a single Oxford pannier?

[Skudd]

Brilliant
Mrs V would love a Varadero ( any model ) if you are going to change the bike. One of the best pillion seats going. Can carry soft luggage or hard. Can mile munch for ever.

Scotland is biking heaven, well West Scotland.
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[Gazz]

You must have a very hot exhaust.

I have the same pannier bags and went half-way round Europe with them sitting right on top of my exhaust and didn't burn through it.

Actually had some advantages heating up the sleeping bag and making it nice and cosy.

[GPZman]

Good read glad you both had a great time

[vindice]

[AN GOF.]

Ace little write up and piccys. The sheepskin looks cool, hope it did the job ok

[colin1]

Usually panniers can be adjusted so they dont hang so low. If they touch the exhaust, you havent fitted them right.
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[kitty kat]

You had me in stitches reading that write-up.
Isn't it wonderful around Loch Ness, if you go there again, ride along the east side of the Loch - fantastic single track road that has hardly any traffic on it and is a dream to ride.
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[Tonka]

Great write up and pictures - very entertaining read and glad you had a good time despite the mishaps - let's face it, ironically they tend to make the trips in their own sweet way!!

I've seen a fair few panniers melted and burned (not mine thank goodness), but never seen or heard of one exploding, so a big 10/10 to Mrs V for style!!
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[coyotie]

Brilliant write up luv the pics .Im doing a dummy run sept 9th from Wiltshire to the lake district then heading over to the east to the croft circuit for brittish super-bikes on the11th-12th.I,m hoping to do the same next year, but with no idea of which camp-sites to go to or where to find them contacts would really appreciate some help have heard some thing about a place to see The Isle Of Mull where ever that is
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VFR800i My current Ride

[Devans]

[621andy]

Excellent write up! PMSL several times
Great pics too
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'93 Africa Twin RD07, C-90,MTX-125,H-100,XL-125, a 125UAG(CG copy!)

[vindice]

[Hockeystorm65]

Great write up Vindice! Somehow I missed that when you originally posted it.

I am from Scotland but living in England and the plan for next year (having got the bike, the Mod 2 and the gear this year) is to do a spot of touring up round the West coast with Mrs N next year. I have been looking at panniers for my CBF and you have just convinced me which way to go

Look forward to hearing more about the exploits of Mr & Mrs V as they scortch a trail across Europe!

Great post!
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Good judgement comes from experience.....experience comes from bad judgement!

[Gone]

Great write-up, and it bought back some memories, I reckon I did very much the same route when I toured Scotland in 1982, two up on a CX 500.

Norway would be a great next trip, haven't done it by bike (yet) but have driven parts of it by car. May well try to bike some of it next summer as well, can do it overland from here.

[Nai]

Would love to do Scotland sometime but not sure my 125 would cope

Good write up Vin!

[stinkwheel]

I've just seen this too. Excellent write-up

People shouldn't write-off the East side too. I personally hate the amount of traffic on the A9 and will go to great lengths to avoid it.

The greatest of these if I find myself in Fort Augustus wanting to head south is (time allowing) to get onto the South Loch Ness road and head East. This road was clearly designed by a raving lunatic with a motorcycle and will test your riding skills in every way possible.

When I hit the A9, I head South for a short distance then turn off towards Granton on Spey. I then hang a right and go up over the Tomintoul/Brown Bridge road which, after lots of insanely up and downy twisty bits, takes you out on the North Deeside road at Balmoral. Hang a right up to Braemar then have your mind blown on the A93 through Spittal of Glenshee. Takes you out at Perth.

I defy anyone to find a more challenging motorcycle ride-out in the UK.

On the subject of melty panniers. Carbon cans don't get hot enough to melt them.

Also, as people often find, if you're going up to Scotland, do not underestimate how quickly you will wear out both chains and tyres. Your average speed tends to be much higher and for sustained periods. The road surface is also highly abrasive (lots of big stones in it for when it's icy). I've lost count of the number of times I get to Fort William to find one of the party has canvas showing through their tyre. You can get tyres there and the guys are very helpful BUT they have a monopoly and they know it. If you need a tyre, it's either there or 80 miles away in Inverness.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[vindice]

[Stevie GooGs]

I travel the A9 a fair bit on the bike down to Glasgow from Ullapool, it can be ok and it can be hellish, lots of cars on the wrong side overtaking. What Stinkwheel says about tyres and chains is very true we constantly get people asking for bike shops in Ullapool for tyres, which there is not. Im yet to find a bit of road in Scotland that is better than:

My favourite route Google Maps

Since i changed to the SM i love the A894 to kylesku
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Bike Pics! -> My Photography Website

[stinkwheel]

[Clanger]

Well written, interesting write up

A little bit late to mention....but on closer inspection of your panniers, you may notice that they are angled...if you'd turned them round on the bike, they would have lined up perfectly with your exhaust, and thus would not have burnt!!!

Ah well, I guess you won't make the same mistake again!!!
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[Stevie GooGs]

[vindice]

[colin1]

That bridge looks awesome. I've not seen a curved bridge before.
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