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Swingarms + dealing with rust professionally?

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spetom
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 30 Aug 2010
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PostPosted: 20:31 - 14 Oct 2010    Post subject: Swingarms + dealing with rust professionally? Reply with quote

Last time I dealt with a rusty swing arm on a 125 I sanded the rust to the metal and then coated several times with hammerite.

It turned out very well and lasted a long time, but I'd rather do this properly in the future and outsource this.

My question = what is the best way of effectively dealing with a rusty swing arm and the shock absorbers for that matter (which had a lot of chrome I also remember were rusty and received a coat of hammerite).

Should I take the swing arm off an send it for powder coating? Who can do that? How do I get it rust treated first? Will they do that?

Likewise how do I deal with rust on the rear shocks with some chrome? On this question I'm totally lost.

Any help appreciated. Thanks
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0ddball
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PostPosted: 21:57 - 14 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

To get it powdercoated you'll need to remove the bearings, well you do at any reputable powdercoater. Which isn't a bad thing if they are years old but it is usually a garage job removing them unless you have a blind bearing puller. They aren't reusable.

The powdercoater will blast the swinger to bare metal. By the time they have finished there should be no rust (might be a few holes though lol).

Will cost about £30 for the powdercoating, £30-50 for new bearings. And whatever it costs to remove (and maybe refit) them.
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spetom
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PostPosted: 22:50 - 14 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

0ddball wrote:
To get it powdercoated you'll need to remove the bearings, well you do at any reputable powdercoater. Which isn't a bad thing if they are years old but it is usually a garage job removing them unless you have a blind bearing puller. They aren't reusable.

The powdercoater will blast the swinger to bare metal. By the time they have finished there should be no rust (might be a few holes though lol).

Will cost about £30 for the powdercoating, £30-50 for new bearings. And whatever it costs to remove (and maybe refit) them.


I didn't realise you needed new bearing to take off the swing arm. It's for a CB500 by the way.

I was wondering as well can you powder coat an exhaust pipe? Will it be resistant to rust for any period of time?
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 00:32 - 15 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

You'd need to remove the bearings to get it powdercoated (or at least powdercoated properly) and you usually damage them in doing so.

Paint is fine though, the Japs put like one coat of thin black or silver paint on a swingarm. Anything you did would be better than the standard finish.

Last one I did, I removed the swingarm, blanked off the bearings with a couple of penny washers and a bit of threaded bar, took all the paint off with nitromorse followed by a pressure washer. I then removed any surface rust with a flapper wheel and gave it a good coat of zinc primer straight away.

Topped it off with a couple of coats of black bitumen paint for that "never going to have to do this again" finish.

This is it in primer:
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/305/Image056.jpg
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spetom
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PostPosted: 09:39 - 15 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks stink,

I wouldn't mind paying for a professional to do it, I can't say I'm the best painter after my last attempt.

Is there a way powder coating has rust protection? Will they first powder coat a protective layer maybe with some zinc in it or something?

What is the most professional way of sorting it out? Or does it have to be a DIY job?
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 09:46 - 15 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just buy a new one, will probably be cheaper and safer than fixing the rusty one.

https://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_from=R40&_trksid=p3907.m570.l1313&_nkw=CB500+swingarm&_sacat=See-All-Categories
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spetom
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PostPosted: 09:58 - 15 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

chris-red wrote:
Just buy a new one, will probably be cheaper and safer than fixing the rusty one.

https://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_from=R40&_trksid=p3907.m570.l1313&_nkw=CB500+swingarm&_sacat=See-All-Categories


They're also rusty! I'm talking surface rust that I'd like to treat and make pristine not structural rust.
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 10:31 - 15 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Powder Coating is not a Magic Bullet.
It is basically a method of coating something using a solvent less paint.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Powder_coating

The process involves cleaning the part/s to base material/metal and usually treating the finished part with an aggressive final cleaner to remove residual oils/grease etc.

The part is then coated in the paint and baked.

A good spray painter could do an equally decent job without any more fuss.
The part would/could still go to an oven for hardening drying.
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spetom
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PostPosted: 15:58 - 15 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Walloper wrote:
Powder Coating is not a Magic Bullet.
It is basically a method of coating something using a solvent less paint.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Powder_coating

The process involves cleaning the part/s to base material/metal and usually treating the finished part with an aggressive final cleaner to remove residual oils/grease etc.

The part is then coated in the paint and baked.

A good spray painter could do an equally decent job without any more fuss.
The part would/could still go to an oven for hardening drying.


Is there a magic bullet? You said the process involves cleaning the parts with aggressive cleaner? Is this for powder coating? I might consider just a simple respray. Could be better if done professionally? No?

What stink has done makes sense with the zinc coat, trouble is I'm a terrible painter. Would a respray shop do a zinc primer first as well?
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 14:03 - 16 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

spetom wrote:
Is there a magic bullet? You said the process involves cleaning the parts with aggressive cleaner? Is this for powder coating? I might consider just a simple respray. Could be better if done professionally? No?

What stink has done makes sense with the zinc coat, trouble is I'm a terrible painter. Would a respray shop do a zinc primer first as well?


It's not rocket surgery.
Follow the directions for the paint and you should manage fine.

If you're not happy with the finish, rub it down and re-spray.
The secret is to use several thin coats.
If you apply to much paint at once then the weight of the paint pull the layer down and makes runs.

The zinc base coat is important.

Allow each coat to dry till tacky before next coat. This will prevent runs and permit the next coat to key/blend better with the lower coat.
Practice on an old bit of something.

Or ask a sprayer how much.

Powder coating material is expensive due to the nature of the compounds.
But there are paints available that provide the same/comparable protection and life.
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el_oso
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PostPosted: 14:12 - 16 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

electrolysis will remove all your rust safely. quite an old trick, especially for classic cars bods
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-8vT2mdXBs8

if there is not much rust the rust removers do work, as does a wire brush on a dill. these two methods do however damage the good metal however slightly. just be careful
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spetom
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PostPosted: 11:50 - 17 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

the_godfather wrote:
electrolysis will remove all your rust safely. quite an old trick, especially for classic cars bods
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-8vT2mdXBs8

if there is not much rust the rust removers do work, as does a wire brush on a dill. these two methods do however damage the good metal however slightly. just be careful


I think I love you. Incredible knowledge. Probably the magic bullet!

Only trouble is I'm going to need a small swimming pool to do a whole swing arm!
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