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Oil change after winter hibernation or before?

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kawakid
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PostPosted: 23:04 - 21 Oct 2010    Post subject: Oil change after winter hibernation or before? Reply with quote

Normally the service on my Z is around this time of year, just about when I put my bike away for the winter.

However this year, I last had an oil change 2600 miles ago.

Am I best changing the oil now or waiting for the new year?

My work mate, never bothers and just wheels his bike out come the new year, but i've always had a recent oil change. The thing is i've bagged up the bike, battery out etc.

Perhaps I could change the oil, without starting her up?

Or perhaps just wait till the 15000 service, which is due in 800 miles. But again next spring.
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c_dug
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PostPosted: 00:29 - 22 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Confused You worry too much!

I'm sure it wont make a difference either way.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 00:49 - 22 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

The way I see it. The oil is there to protect moving parts from rubbing against one another. If they aren't moving, they can't rub on one another.

The other function is preventing your engine internals from rusting. I reckon spent oil would be just as good at this as new stuff.

In other words, I'd change it after the winter.

If you feel the need to do something to lay it up, get some fuel stabiliser, add it to the fuel, brim the tank with fuel and crack the carb drains to run some petrol through so they are full of stabilised fuel. Condensation in a partially empty tank can lead to corrosion of the exposed metal and unleaded can go stale surprisingly quickly.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 05:58 - 22 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do it before, but not because of the oil. Oil does slowly collect corrosive stuff from blow-by in the cylinders when the bike's running so you could base your decision on that, but it won't affect a healthy engine.

What will make a difference is if you not only do the oil but set-aside a day and clean up the running gear, perhaps drop the calipers, pump-out the pistons out a bit and clean off any crud then lube them with caliper grease and push them all the way back in and leave them in over winter. Clean, lube and adjust the chain and give stuff like any cables, and the side-stand/brake lever pivot/bar lever pivots the once-over, maybe dig-out all the crap that's collected around the front sprocket and clutch push-rod if your bke has one. This will all ave you a bit of heart-ache come next Easter.
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 10:37 - 22 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wot Pete sez.

Plus:

The oil can become acidic so would corrode parts.
I would not panic though, 2600 is not too much miles. If it's decent oil it should be OK to sleep over winter. So long as the oil isn't years old it'll be fine.
I do the lawnmower every year after last cut. But only cause it takes a coffee mug of oil and once it's done it's done. Goes Like Fcuk during the next summer though. Smile

Good idea to clean up all the other stuff on Pete's list though.

I have a Calor-Gas catalytic heater in my garage for those long winter nights.
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Adam.I
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PostPosted: 17:02 - 22 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just to add a little to what everyone else has said. In my Suzuki owner's manual, it says if you are storing the bike for an extended period of time IE winter, then you should change the oil before you store it, and once you take it out from storage, you should change it again.

However, I doubt many will do both.
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 18:06 - 22 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Evans wrote:
Just to add a little to what everyone else has said. In my Suzuki owner's manual, it says if you are storing the bike for an extended period of time IE winter, then you should change the oil before you store it, and once you take it out from storage, you should change it again.

However, I doubt many will do both.


Not eye Dear Heart. Smile I wouldn't bother my chuff.

Really for a full Monty for storage the Plot Sickens.

Remove the plugs and put a teaspoon of oil into the bore.

Turn the engine over several times to coat the cylinder walls with the oil
Drain the sump and fill with fresh oil and or a VOC Volatile Organic Compound. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volatile_organic_compound

Then seal the inlet manifold, exhaust and breather/s

I used to do this on diesels but a bore-o-scope was used to ensure all of the combustion space was coated.
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kawakid
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PostPosted: 20:04 - 22 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the advice everyone.
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flumpy7
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PostPosted: 22:15 - 22 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Never understood hibernation. Just give the bike a nice run every couple of weeks and when not in use keep the battery connected to an optimiser. I know its cold but it aint so cold you cant ride at all for 4 to 5 months.
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 23:18 - 22 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

flumpy7 wrote:
Never understood hibernation. Just give the bike a nice run every couple of weeks and when not in use keep the battery connected to an optimiser. I know its cold but it aint so cold you cant ride at all for 4 to 5 months.


Wearing only a string vest, pants and an auld pair of carpet slippers too.
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Noxious89123
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PostPosted: 00:28 - 23 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

flumpy7 wrote:
Never understood hibernation. Just give the bike a nice run every couple of weeks and when not in use keep the battery connected to an optimiser. I know its cold but it aint so cold you cant ride at all for 4 to 5 months.


Because I'm lazy and own a car. I also enjoy having a sparkly bike, and don't have enough time to keep it as clean as I'd like. Also, I enjoy my bike much more when I'm not worrying about binning it in the cold + wet, or freezing my bollocks off.

I also quite enjoy thrashing the tits off the car, so that is entertaining enough to tide me over winter.

+1 For the fuel stabiliser. Used some last year and come spring the bike started up after turning over about 4 times and ran sweet Smile

Are you keeping your bike outside under a cover, or in a garage?
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kawakid
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PostPosted: 14:49 - 23 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:

Are you keeping your bike outside under a cover, or in a garage?



No the bikes, tucked up in the garage, exhaust bagged, battery out, etc. All covered in a liberal coating of WD40 and then covered with a bike cover. It's what I do every year. I charge the battery once a month with an Optimate and never had a problem

I normally just keep the tank full to the brim over winter and i've not had to use fuel stabiliser before.

It's my Z750 which I put a way, I only tax it for 6 months and it's only ever ridden in the dry. The bikes done nearly 15K and it has never seen rain and it's washed thoroughly after each ride. It still looks new!

On the other hand my commute i'm out in all weathers,
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tvchimp
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PostPosted: 17:03 - 23 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

kawakid wrote:

It's my Z750 which I put a way, I only tax it for 6 months and it's only ever ridden in the dry. The bikes done nearly 15K and it has never seen rain and it's washed thoroughly after each ride. It still looks new


I was about to call sacrilege and start hunting for my pitchfork for the weekend warrior hunt, then saw this...

Quote:
On the other hand my commute i'm out in all weathers,


Laughing


I'd just turn it on once a week and let it run for 5-10mins, will keep everything nice and coated in oils. Would just need to remove your exhaust bag and hook the battery up, should kick over fine. Do the oil change after winter imo, no point in putting in new oil, to leave it sitting their congealing (although it wouldn't)..
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Howling TerrorOutOfOffice
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PostPosted: 17:09 - 23 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was going to hibernate the 30yr old 250...CBA so riding both Mr. Green
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SirEdward
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PostPosted: 17:31 - 23 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you change the oil and then give a good spin on idle before capping the exhaust et cetera? Or do you top up and let it sit, provided you've taken out the spark plugs and put a bit of oil in each cylinder? Wink
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Phoenix
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PostPosted: 17:43 - 23 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I usually change mine after the winter, it's more likely to get condensation form inside the engine while it's stored which will turn some of the oil into margarine like stuff. When you get it out in the new year then i'd run it and take it for a ride to evaporate any condensed water and then change the oil.

I don't think it really matters one bit how you do it, I just don't see the point in leaving it sat with fresh oil for 4 or 5 months, plus if you do a change when you get it out in the new year it'll force you to check some other bits while you're at it, never should get a bike out after storage and just jump on and go.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 17:59 - 23 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Phoenix wrote:
I usually change mine after the winter, it's more likely to get condensation form inside the engine while it's stored which will turn some of the oil into margarine like stuff. When you get it out in the new year then i'd run it and take it for a ride to evaporate any condensed water and then change the oil.

I don't think it really matters one bit how you do it, I just don't see the point in leaving it sat with fresh oil for 4 or 5 months, plus if you do a change when you get it out in the new year it'll force you to check some other bits while you're at it, never should get a bike out after storage and just jump on and go.


You won't get any appreciable condensation inside a standing engine since there's no air movement to carry moisture in and very little range of temperature changes to produce condensate.

You're right, changing the oil before or after winter doesn't make a jot of difference, but the servicing of the other stuff before a winter lay-up definately does. You do still need to give it a check-over before riding again in spring though.
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Phoenix
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PostPosted: 19:59 - 23 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
You won't get any appreciable condensation inside a standing engine since there's no air movement to carry moisture in and very little range of temperature changes to produce condensate.


I think it depends on your garage or storage method, under a cover bikes develop condensation on them and in my garage i've had appreciable condensation too when the bike has been left. As the crankcase breather is open to the atmosphere/airbox air I assumed that water vapour is very possible inside the engine. I have had milky oil after leaving a bike left alone for months over winter before which is why i mentioned it, I assume this to be the cause.
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