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Front brake lots of play - ZX6R

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Oz.
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Joined: 21 Apr 2008
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PostPosted: 13:54 - 31 Oct 2010    Post subject: Front brake lots of play - ZX6R Reply with quote

Soo my front brake has a lot of play, have crg adjustable levels and on the highest setting there is still a lot f play.

Ive changed the pads and fluid giving them it a proper bleed but still just as much play as before.

Any ideas?

Bike is a ZX6R C1H
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L4Isoside
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Joined: 08 Mar 2010
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PostPosted: 13:55 - 31 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try putting elastic bands or zip ties around the brake and handle bar, keeping it as tight as possible and leave overnight?

I've found this to help stiffen up my brakes.
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HD
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Joined: 16 Dec 2009
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PostPosted: 17:44 - 31 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

+1 for the cable tie on the lever overnight.

If possible keep bleeding it and get the old fluid out and make 100% sure there is no air in the because when we were bleeding mine it took a while. I left a cable tie overnight on the lever and it was perfect.
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G
The Voice of Reason



Joined: 02 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 18:00 - 31 Oct 2010    Post subject: Re: Front brake lots of play - ZX6R Reply with quote

Tokico brakes are usually a bit squidgy.
However they can be pretty good if kept well maintained with good pads and braided hoses.
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flumpy7
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Joined: 31 May 2008
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PostPosted: 07:18 - 01 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had this once....i noticed that there were still a few very small bubbles coming out of one of the calipers when bleeding too. It turned out air was slowly seeping in from around the bleed nipple when it was undone. I just wrapped some sealing tape around the base of the nipple and bled it again and hey presto the lever really firmed up. Probably should have bought a new nipple mind.
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Blue_SV650S
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Joined: 27 Nov 2008
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PostPosted: 10:02 - 01 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quite often there can be a little bubble of air right up by the M/C, regardless of how often you try bleeding the brakes, it won't clear.

Two good ways to resolve this:-

1. Reverse bleed - use a syringe full of brake fluid, put some pipe on the bleed nipple, loosen the nipple and push the syringe. This will force fluid UP the system, so the air will be going in a more natural direction and 'vent' in the M/C

2. 'Crack off' the M/C banjo - It is the banjo area these bubbles can form, so pull the leaver in, with pressure on the leaver still, loosen off the M/C banjo, let the leaver pull all the way back and then quickly re-tighten the banjo before letting the leaver back out. This might do the trick first time, if it doesn't then repeat say twice more, if it still isn't any better, then that is not your problem!

Next train of thought - is there lots of leaver travel when stationary (after pumping up) or just on the move?

Either way, suspect warped disc, if it is on the move, it will be warped radially, if it stationary it will be side profile.

Both are easy to check for.

Rotation:- get the front wheel off the ground and spin the wheel, holding a pencil on the fork, pointing to the disc, move it in closer and closer until it touches the disc. If it 'pulses' to any degree, the disk is warped.

Side profile:- When you squeeze the leaver (and then pads close), does the disk 'flex' in the calliper?



Final thought, when looking at the calliper and applying the brakes, how much do the pistons/pads move? If they move a fair ways (and it is not warped disc) then I suspect you are needing to do a calliper overhaul as they are sticking!


hummmm .... Is this post over 200 words?!!? Very Happy
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Oz.
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Joined: 21 Apr 2008
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PostPosted: 09:29 - 02 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well the zip tie lever to handle trick improved it, when first removing it was still squishy but after a pump or 2 it greatly improved.

Also noticed while applying ties that the master cylinder has its own bleed nipple! So will be getting on that this weekend.

Dont think the disk is warped as I dont feel any pulses when breaking. But will again check on the weekend.

Cheers peeps!
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