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Honda V4 Engine Removal Qs

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Vincent This post is not being displayed because the poster is banned. Unhide this post / all posts.

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Mr Calendar



Joined: 14 Jun 2004
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PostPosted: 13:05 - 11 Nov 2010    Post subject: Re: Honda V4 Engine Removal Qs Reply with quote

Vincent wrote:
Anyone removed a VFR750 motor?
Is it easy/hard.
What's the problems?....

I have not had to remove the engine but IMO they are a bit of a faff to work on.
Done a service on one, twice.
However, once you have done things a few times then not too bad and you learn shorcuts.

Most fun is had removing the plastics just to get at the damn thing.
Can be quite a chore especially as you don't want to snap/break/crack anything.
You appreciate how much labour garages charge as it can take a while to do this job before actually starting any work.

Then there's the additional tools, like the very long reach spark plug socket. Plus having to loosen the radiator in that special way to get at the front ones, just loved that first time I had to do it (but then maybe I wasn't doing it quite right).

I found the V4 in the ST1100 is actually easier to get to.

That said, VFR's a good bike and worth the effort.
Sorry can't help any further.

IIRC stinkwheel may be able to offer better advice as he had/has one and is more adept at feckling.

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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 13:55 - 11 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

You do not need to remove the engine to replace the exhaust. Certainly not on one of the single side swingarm models at any rate.

You DO need to remove the mainstand because the exhaust passes through it (which can be a pain) and the plastics.

There is a short stub manifold on the rear two cylinders that takes them through a 90 degree turn to point out above the right footpeg. The headers bolt onto the end of this. It sits behind the engine so it shouldn't really need replacing.

When I changed mine, one of the studs on that manifold came adrift and I had to remove it to replace the stud. Now THAT was tight! Got it in the end though with a combination of two wobble bars and a flexi-adapter on my socket set.

There is a heat-shield behind the rear master cylinder that most aftermarket systems require you to junk.

Remember, the front header pipes cross one another (or you'll never get it on).

If it's a single side swingarm model, I can highly recommend a high-level rear exhaust. This allows you to change the rear wheel in about 2 minutes flat. I keep two wheels, one with a sticky tyre, one with a touring tyre for motorways.

Prepare to be amazed at how easily everything comes apart if this is the first premium end of the range Honda you've had. Thumbs Up
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.Bishbash.
World Chat Champion



Joined: 06 Sep 2010
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PostPosted: 15:24 - 11 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Recently rebuilt my GF's V4 400, wasn't too bad getting it out tbh, I think 2 of us had the engine out in 30 mins from a working bike to just an engine. And probably about double that to get it back in and running again after the work we did.

The annoying thing is resitting the carbs as you have to remove them to get the engine out comfortably.

But, as suggested, if it is just the exhaust, there shouldn't be any need to take the engine out, but it will be tight getting them off. Wink

HTH
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Vincent This post is not being displayed because the poster is banned. Unhide this post / all posts.

stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 16:56 - 11 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

White ones are inexplicably popular with the VFR owners. I suspect they are all closet police bikers or something.

I'll see if I can find my workshop manual when i get home, ought to tell me if you need to drop the engine, I seriously doubt it though.

They would usually rot through at the splitter box, which as as complex a bit of pipebending as you could hope to see on a motorbike. This is my pattern one from sandy bike spares.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/sexyzorst.jpg

I bet you'd get a SS swingarm one for £1500 these days. That said. The only real advantage of the SS swingarm is the ability to quickly and easily change the rear wheel and removal of the need to meticulously set the wheel alignment. Something they totally screwed up by then fitting the silencer across the side of it meaning you have to move the exhaust to get it out. The standard swingarm is lighter, more rigid and easier to service if it goes wrong.

Mine has a high level pipe and I'm going to the bike shop to have a new tyre fitted tomorrow. I'll have the wheel off the bike before he has the plastic wrapping off the new tyre.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 21:43 - 11 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think my manual is in the lockup and it's so windy out that I daren't open an up and over door, it'll take off.

I've looked on ebay at the older style exhausts, they are pretty much the same as my old standard one, just have a pressed-steel collector box like you'd get on a car instead of the pipes being welded together into a splitter. The important thing is they have the same manifold arrangement on the rear cylinders and have seperate front headers. All of which means I can see no reason why the engine would have to come out to fit it, nor the radiator removed.

It is almost certainly the collector box that's rotted.

You can actually remove the front headers with the plastics on. I know because I have done so in the past.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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