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ER-5 No power getting to the electronics?

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ncrn
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Joined: 24 May 2006
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PostPosted: 14:38 - 18 Nov 2010    Post subject: ER-5 No power getting to the electronics? Reply with quote

Hey, a couple of days ago when I went to start my bike the head light and indicator lights all cut out. I found the main fuse at the starter relay had blown, I replaced the fuse and it blew again. Upon inspecting the relay I found it was no longer working correctly. I've swapped the starter relay for a new one but still when I turn the ignition there is no power?

The battery is reading 12.2v which is slightly low so I'm charging it at the moment, but I would have thought the lights would at least show dimly at that voltage?

I've checked the ignition switch and everything seems to be normal there.

Is there anything else I might be missing that might be causing no power to the bike? I've had a look at the wiring diagram and the starter relay seems to be the first point of contact to the battery, so I had assumed that replacing it with a working one would fix things?

Thanks
James
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craigT19
Jolly Green Giant



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PostPosted: 14:44 - 18 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

well as you have found that the live is working atleast?? ( im assuming its no longer blowing fuses) go the other route and check for a dodgy earth. the earth will be on a random engine bolt... if i remember right one of the starter motor bolts is a kawasaki favourite.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



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PostPosted: 15:16 - 18 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check the wire running from the main fuse to the rest of the electrics (usually white as I recall). It's prone to corrosion. Try to pull it out of the snap connector that attaches to the top of the fuse holder and at the other end.

If it pulls out, there's your problem.

Also check the battery termnals are done up tight.

What about the rest of the fuses?
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ncrn
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PostPosted: 15:24 - 18 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

According to the wiring diagram the earth is on the starter motor so will check that in a minute.

All of the other fuses are perfectly fine (inspected them all). I'll have a look at the wire, it disappears into the wiring loom very quickly but I know it re-appears in the head light.

Battery is definitely done up properly though.

Thanks for the advice guys, I'll go out have a look and see what I find.
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ncrn
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PostPosted: 16:27 - 18 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I've had another look, the wire stinkwheel mentioned is slightly corroded at the headlight but there is continuity through the wire from the starter relay so I'm assuming that its ok. There is no voltage that I could read at that end of the wire or coming from the starter relay..

I check the starter relay diode and it doesn't appear to be working anymore, there is no continuity either direction. It doesn't seem to be linked to the headlight etc but it is connected into the starter relay circuit so could this be whats causing the lack of power?

All the grounds seem fine and connected properly, no broken wires I could see either.

Its started hammering down with rain so I've given up till it clears up.
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CarlosCBR
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PostPosted: 17:31 - 18 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ooo watching this! Having the exact same problem with my CBR race bike, really losing patience with it at the moment too!
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ncrn
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PostPosted: 18:15 - 18 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll let you know what was wrong if I work it out then Very Happy
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 19:10 - 18 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll check later, but I vaguely recall that there might be another relay in there somewhere. There is a whole array of microrelays in the fuse box that do various unecessary tasks. Surprisingly, said fuse box can be dismantled and the appropriate relay flicked repeatedly with a fingernail until it buckles down and pulls its act together.

I'll get back to you when I have the wiring diagram in front of me because the fault you are describing has to be in a really limited number of componants in any case.

It might be worth turning the ignition on then giving the fuse box an oppertunist thump with the heel of your hand. This has worked for me in the past.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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ncrn
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PostPosted: 20:18 - 18 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I found a block of diodes near the fuse box that I pulled out to have a look at, the haynes manual calls them the "interlock diodes" they seem to be involved in sending signals from the clutch switch, side stand switch and neutral switch to the IC igniter. At either rate I tested it and they all appear to be working (massive resistance one way, little the other).

The Starter circuit relay has massive resistance in both directions which if I'm remembering right means its borked. Although it is only part of the circuit involving the starter motor which doesn't explain why the ignition won't allow the lights etc to turn on.

From what I can see on the wiring diagram voltage goes into the starter relay this then goes to the regulator, the fan fuse and the ignition main switch.

From there the voltage goes into the fuse box, which then distributes it to various switches and lights etc.

I think tomorrow I might take the fuel tank and all the plastic bits off and try follow this wire around see if its grounding anywhere.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 23:28 - 18 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

ncrn wrote:
There is no voltage that I could read ..<snip>. coming from the starter relay..


Just checked the diagram in my manual and that's it. All the other jiggery-pokery comes after that. No voltage there, no workee as you correctly diagnosed.

If you wanted, I see nothing stopping you getting a 30A inline fuse and connecting the battery positive directly to the white wire. There is no good reason for it going through the starter solenoid in the first place. It'll make it easier to get at the main fuse if it ever blows in the future too. If you do this, it should come back to life.* Solenoid should still work. If it doesn't it's most likely busted.

You can then use any old starter solenoid, doesn't have to be specific to that model (or even to a motorbike). Just bung some ring terminals on the remaining two wires and hook them up.

Outboard motor ones are good. They are super corrosion and vibration resistant. One like this. As long as it has an "insulated earth".

Yep. That's what I'd do. Connect the white wire directly to the battery via a 30A fuse and replace the kawasaki solenoid with a marine one.

*If the fuse blows straight away, there is a definate short on that wire. Might be easier in the long run to just run a replacement wire paralell to it.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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ncrn
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PostPosted: 23:34 - 18 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I will do that tomorrow and I'll report what I find, sounds like a good idea , I was considering doing this but without the fuse but your idea is much more sane.

Plus if I stick with this as a solution I would get some epic bodge points for my bike, it hasn't had a lot for some time Laughing.

Cheers for the advice, I really appreciate it Very Happy.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 00:11 - 19 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

ncrn wrote:

Plus if I stick with this as a solution I would get some epic bodge points for my bike, it hasn't had a lot for some time Laughing.


It's not a bodge. It's an upgrade.

Bodge :- Replacing broken parts with other parts that aren't really meant for that job but will get it running.

Upgrade:- Replacing broken parts with better parts that are designed for the job.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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ncrn
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PostPosted: 14:37 - 19 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think I may have discovered the problem. I tried going straight from the battery to the loom, passing the relay, sparks and the fuse goes instantly.

Before I did anything else I went back to the wiring diagram, I noted that the rectifier was on the same circuit so I disconnected it, put a new fuse in and tried again. As if by magic the lights come on so does the neutral light and the indicators etc. So my guess is that either the rectifier is to blame, or part of the loom going to it is earthing.

I'm going to have some lunch and then have a more detailed look at the rectifier. I have a feeling though that the relay I have bought is shite however...
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ncrn
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PostPosted: 16:12 - 19 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've got the rectifier/regulator off (who decided putting it over the back wheel was a good idea??). The white wire (from the relay) has some pretty horrible green corrosion all over its connectors. There doesn't seem to be any physical damage to the wires though.

I tested it according too the haynes manual and it failed that pretty badly. My guess is there is no real way to repair it so I need a new one? They are about £70 on ebay :/
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Asimo
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Joined: 13 Jul 2005
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PostPosted: 17:43 - 19 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

You really don't want to replace the RR with an oem or pattern one, they all seem to die in 2 or so years. The oem kawasaki one will most likely destroy half the electrics when it dies too.

Theres a guy on the ER5 Forum who sells uprated RR's but they're not cheap, £118 posted including paypal fees. Alternatively you can save yourself £5 by registering on the forum.
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