CG magneto/timing slipping

map · Mr Calendar Joined: 14 Jun 2004 Karma :

Following on from my earlier thread on this (info click here) the problem has come back.

Despite my (and others) best efforts the magneto cover appears to slip (the nut gets loose).
This knackers the woodruff key and takes the timing out.

So, any help on how to sort this short of a new engine/engine rebuild would be appreciated.

Already tried to make sure nut tight with impact driver and did use threadlock on it.

Also attached pics of the last fix.

https://www.bikechatforums.com/download.php?id=75884
and
https://www.bikechatforums.com/download.php?id=75883
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N cee thirty · Banned Joined: 31 Jan 2010 Karma :

is it actually screwed on all the way ? mine has quite alot of thread showing

when you tighten it up,it goes tight and then loose again then back to fully tight
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Jewlio Iglesias wrote: I actually did vote BNP once

map · Mr Calendar Joined: 14 Jun 2004 Karma :

satans_BIG_helper · Nearly there... Joined: 28 Dec 2004 Karma :

that nut should be further on than that. check the threads are not worn on the spline and the same for the nut. might even be worth checking if its the right parts in place too.
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N cee thirty · Banned Joined: 31 Jan 2010 Karma :

did you put it on with the proper fly wheel puller thing ?
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'00 Aprilia RS50 > '92 Honda CG > '99 Yamaha Fazer > '91 Yamaha RXS > '79 Suzuki X5 > 01' Honda Cg > 07' Honda Cg > 82' Kawasaki Z200 > suzuki gsxr 400 gk73a > honda vfr 400 NC30 Mod 2 Passed 09/06/2011

Jewlio Iglesias wrote: I actually did vote BNP once

finpos · World Chat Champion Joined: 13 Sep 2005 Karma :

You need to heed the advice in the original thread. The flywheel is kept in place only by the interference fit onto the tapered shaft of the crank. The woodruff key is only there to align the flywheel, it's not there to keep the flywheel from spinning in use. And, the nut is only there to force the flywheel onto the tapered shaft with a hoo-haa amount of force.

So, what you can do:
1) Use grinding paste to lap the flywheel onto the shaft to improve the fit.
2) Go to a bearing supplier and tell them what's up. They will give you some special loctite stuff that is specifically designed for this application. It goes on the shaft, not the thread.
3) Make/get a flywheel holding tool so you can do the nut up properly
4) use a new nut
5) weld it on.

f.

map · Mr Calendar Joined: 14 Jun 2004 Karma :

N cee thirty · Banned Joined: 31 Jan 2010 Karma :

i'll take a pic tommorow Thumbs Up

____________________
'00 Aprilia RS50 > '92 Honda CG > '99 Yamaha Fazer > '91 Yamaha RXS > '79 Suzuki X5 > 01' Honda Cg > 07' Honda Cg > 82' Kawasaki Z200 > suzuki gsxr 400 gk73a > honda vfr 400 NC30 Mod 2 Passed 09/06/2011

Jewlio Iglesias wrote: I actually did vote BNP once

stinkwheel · Bovine Proctologist Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :

Did you thoroughly degrease the taper before fitting?

I wonder if it's totally spun-up at some point and knackered the facings on the flywheel taper (the crank taper is usually hard as fuck). Trouble is, as you point out, you haven't got a hell of a lot of clearance left to re-dress it.

As finpos has pointed out, green bearing fit compound would hold it BUT I wouldn't rate your chances of ever removing it again. The stuff I have quotes a torsional grip force of 21ft/lb, and that's on a slightly loose fitting bearing race. I shudder to think how much force it would take to pull it straight off.

You can lock-up the engine to tighten it by putting the piston to BDC, stuffing a load of washing line in through the sparkplug hole then turning the engine.

Flywheel nut should be tightened to somewhere in the region of 25ft/lb.

This is a C90 one done up finger tight:
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/DSCN1001.jpg

EDIT: Your stator plate looks weird. Obviously I can't see it all but on your second picture it looks like there is a piece of alloy plate with one edge cut off straight sticking out from behind the flywheel Confused

Should that be there, what's it doing? The stator plate normally looks like this:
https://www.electrexworld.co.uk/images/Stators/300x200/white-back/ST1102.jpg
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map · Mr Calendar Joined: 14 Jun 2004 Karma :

finpos · World Chat Champion Joined: 13 Sep 2005 Karma :

Depends how long you think the rest of the bike will last - seriously, if you put new points in and if you think you'll only get another 10,000 miles out of the bike you may as well weld it up. If you were particularly determined you could probably grind the weld off to change of points.

If you use the special shaft glue (!) you can probably get it off again with a proper puller, heat and significant swearing. Certainly will not be easy.

If you don't want to do either of those things I'd go for lapping the flywheel, replacing the nut with a new one and then pegging the nut onto the crankshaft (drill and tap a hole between the two and put a bolt in there)

f.