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Removing Snapped Bolts From Crankcase?

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anthony_r6
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PostPosted: 14:59 - 08 Oct 2011    Post subject: Removing Snapped Bolts From Crankcase? Reply with quote

I've got 2-3 crankcase bolts inside my crank-casing that snapped when I over-tightened them (That'll teach me not to use a Torque-Wrench.) At some point soon I'm going to have to address the wielded-on gear-shifter and neutral issue my bike has. The problem is, these bolts are really long and only threaded a tiny bit, which is unfortunately the point at which it snapped. So what I have is 2-3 threaded pieces deep inside the casing that I need to get out.

I'm planning to take it to a Mechanic and just asking them to do it because I really cannot be bothered with the hassle. But how would they go about getting them out without doing further damage to the casing? The bolts are thin and long, so seeing what you're doing is impossible - is this something a mechanic will be able to do?

Cheers,

Anthony
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yen_powell
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PostPosted: 15:09 - 08 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

As you have snapped the tops off they are probably not tight any more. If you can remove the cover to get better access, just try tapping them undone in an anti clockwise direction with a centre punch and gentle taps from a hammer. I think you'll be surprised how loose they are.
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The Artist
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PostPosted: 15:14 - 08 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Torque wrenches are fine so long as you set them to the right torque Laughing
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 15:26 - 08 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

As they were broken putting them in, they won't be rusted/gunked or in another way stuck in the hole. As such, an EZ out extractor or reverse twist drill should get them out.

People fail with these because they are trying to extract a bolt that snapped as they were taking it out, meaning it was pretty well stuck in there. They break their extractor in the hole and make the problem worse. Conversely, a bolt that was snapped putting it in should readily unscrew if you can get a grip on the end of it.

An EZ out is a tapered, reverse threaded tap. You drill a small pilot hole in the end of the snapped bolt and start screwing the tap in. because it's tapered, the tap will eventually jam itself tightly in the hole and because it's reverse threaded, you'll start unscrewing the bolt instead of screwing the tap in.

A reverse twist drill works in a similar way, you start drilling a hole in the end of the bolt, when the drill bites in the metal, it'll start to unscrew the bolt. If you get a hole all the way through, you then go for the EZ out (although getting to this point would tend to suggest the bolt was more stuck than you thought).

If they've snapped in an open-ended hole (one that goes right through) you can do something similar with a normal drill, the bolt should screw right through and come out the other side when the bit gets a hold of it.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 15:40 - 08 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Artist wrote:
Torque wrenches are fine so long as you set them to the right torque Laughing


Torque wrenches are not a substitute for operator input.

It is a worthwhile exercise getting a few spare nuts and bolts and practice overtightening them until either the thread strips or they shear. As you tighten them down against the nut, the metal stretches and will spring back to its original shape and size, this is called the elastic phase. A bit tighter and they suddenly stretch more (it seems to take less effort to tighten it than it had been doing), this permanantly stretches and deforms the bolt and is called the plastic phase. Tighter still and it'll snap.

With practice, you can feel this happening. If you start to hit the plastic phase, that is the time to stop what you're doing, regardless of what the torque wrench is set to or what the manual says. Most bolts on a morotcycle should be tightened to within 80% of the plastic phase. Calliper bolts are sometimes to within 90% or actually into it vide infra.

There is an exception with some bolts called stretch bolts, which are designed to be tightened into the plastic phase. They are most commonly used on brake callipers, they tend to have a waist on the unthreaded part (gets narrower just before the threaded portion) and should be thrown away and replaced with new ones if you ever take them out.

Sometimes an excessively oily bolt will tighten way too tight and doesn't give sufficient feedback due to a lack of friction between the threads.

So, both hands on the wrench, go slowly and pay attention to how much force you're applying, don't just listen for the click. If you think you're overtightening, stop, back it off, check the threads, check it isn't too oily and try again.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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