Is it possible to take a buckle out of one of these wheels?

[nsr_J22_FOXEYE]

Hey all, doing my usual ride and a feel a little wobble on corners occasional, and after examining the rear wheel it looks buckled so I am curious can i save myself £200 of buying a new wheel by getting a buckle out of this sort of spoke wheel ?

https://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=https://img.swapz.co.uk/swapz/2011-01/big/4d23486e33fd7_1.jpg&imgrefurl=https://www.swapz.co.uk/swapz/1579886/&usg=___7M9NvstHWmLihcIyhwVojRM2_w=&h=414&w=623&sz=201&hl=en&start=0&sig2=s-Zg-T9-i8D9nkOBJ7Zohg&zoom=1&tbnid=HSvTuJvteRYtaM:&tbnh=164&tbnw=221&ei=A_FDTefGMOGc4AahrcxE&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dmegelli%2B125m%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN%26biw%3D1024%26bih%3D677%26tbs%3Disch:1&um=1&itbs=1&iact=hc&vpx=323&vpy=135&dur=843&hovh=183&hovw=276&tx=163&ty=125&oei=9fBDTYaFL-qShAeCv5zKAQ&esq=5&page=1&ndsp=12&ved=1t:429,r:1,s:0


https://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=https://img.swapz.co.uk/swapz/2011-01/big/4d23486e33fd7_1.jpg&imgrefurl=https://www.swapz.co.uk/swapz/1579886/&usg=___7M9NvstHWmLihcIyhwVojRM2_w=&h=414&w=623&sz=201&hl=en&start=0&sig2=s-Zg-T9-i8D9nkOBJ7Zohg&zoom=1&tbnid=HSvTuJvteRYtaM:&tbnh=164&tbnw=221&ei=A_FDTefGMOGc4AahrcxE&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dmegelli%2B125m%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN%26biw%3D1024%26bih%3D677%26tbs%3Disch:1&um=1&itbs=1&iact=hc&vpx=323&vpy=135&dur=843&hovh=183&hovw=276&tx=163&ty=125&oei=9fBDTYaFL-qShAeCv5zKAQ&esq=5&page=1&ndsp=12&ved=1t:429,r:1,s:0
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Never Ride Faster Than Your Angel Can Fly

[stinkwheel]

https://img.swapz.co.uk/swapz/2011-01/big/4d23486e33fd7_1.jpg

Yes, it is possible providing the rim isn't creased so inspect it for dammage and cracks before you start.

It's not entirely straightforward, takes a bit of time and to an extent, practice but definately possible.

You will need some sort of jig which firmly supports the wheel on its spindle so it can be rotated without moving relative to the jig. You will also need a spoke key, a wipeable marker pen or crayon and a pointer of some sort (a bent coathanger is actually quite good for this).

A wee bit of technical knowledge first.

If you look at the wheel, you'll see the spokes go from the rim to either one side or the other side of the hub. Tightening a spoke will pull the rim towards the side of the hub that spoke is anchored to.

You tighten a spoke by turning the nipple where the spoke goes into the rim. Clockwise for tight, anticlockwise for loose.

It is also unlikely that any of your spokes would have tightened themselves. As such, trueing a lightly buckled wheel is mostly done by TIGHTENING spokes. If they appear to be getting too tight, back off ALL the spokes by half a turn then start again.

Ok. So you have the wheel in your jig, it is free to rotate but not to move side to side or up and down. I have even done them in the bike by supporting the wheel up off the ground, removing the brake calliper and putting the steering lock on for a front wheel. Or by removing the calliper and taking the chain off the sprocket for a rear wheel.

Attach your pointer to the jig (or fork leg or swingarm) so it is rigidly attached (eg. a bent coat hanger and a couple of jubilee clips) and position it so the tip of the pointer is JUST hovering over the rim. Now turn the wheel.

You're looking at the size of the gap between the pointer and the rim. If the wheel is buckled, this gap will get bigger and smaller as the wheel turns. Turn it so you find the largest difference in distance (either biggest or smallest) and mark that point on the rim with your marker pen. This is the most buckled part.

You now need to pull that part of the rim one way or the other by tightening the appropriate spokes. Your mark will either be next to a spoke that will pull it in the correct direction, in which case, tighten it half a turn. Or it will be next to a spoke that would pull it the wrong way in which case tighten the spokes on either side by a quarter turn.

Check again. If that is now no longer the biggest buckled part, wipe off the mark and move onto the next one. If it's still bad, give it a similar adjustment and check again.

Keep going like this until the pointer is an even distance from the rim all the way round. Your wheel is now straight. It may however not be properly dished (the dish is the position of the rim in relation to the hub). It generally won't have moved too far though unless there was a huge buckle. Just check the tyre isn't fouling anything as it turns. The rim can actually be a fair bit offset to one side without affecting handling unduly (a v-max doesn't have the front and rear wheels in line with one another at all).

Small adjustments only and if there comes a point where you feel you're chasing a slight buckle round and round the rim. Stop, it's probably close enough.

The other option is to send the wheel to a wheelbuilders.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[nsr_J22_FOXEYE]

Ill go for option 2 , what would I search for in google to get this sorted?

also for future reference how did you get the image to show as i blatantly failed
____________________
Never Ride Faster Than Your Angel Can Fly

[Wafer_Thin_Ham]

[stinkwheel]

Hagon do wheel building. https://www.hagon-shocks.co.uk/HagWheel.htm

As does central wheels. https://www.central-wheel.co.uk/

Your link was to the google images preview page. If you'd clicked "view full size" it would have gone to the image. This is the URL you needed. You used the tags correctly, just the wrong URL. If it's not showing just the image you want to hotlink to on the page and the URL doesn't end with .jpg, .png or .gif, it's not a direct link to that image.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.