Kawasaki oil pump problem from dumb woman

[melons79]

Hi all, i just bought a kawasaki kmx 125 thats been used as a field bike, i would like to restore it back to its original state, have replaced kips, forks and almost finished the electrics, but am having issues with the oil bottle, its not connected to anything and no matter how research on the net i do i have drawn a blank, could someone possibley upload pics of where the oil bottle/tank connects to as i think i may possibley be missing the pump!

[serlant]

probably behind a small cover on rhs of engine, if not try behind sprocket cover, might try following throttle cable back from grip until it splits then follow to oil pump, unless whoever had it before removed the oil pump and premixed it
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04 CBR1000RR, 1995 Husqvarna TE410, 1998 VTR1000(Sold), 1990 XJ600(sold), 1996 KH125(dead and sold)

[melons79]

Its been on pre-mix this is what makes me think the oil pump has gone walkies somewhere

[serlant]

sorry about crap post at work try looking at https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=169575
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04 CBR1000RR, 1995 Husqvarna TE410, 1998 VTR1000(Sold), 1990 XJ600(sold), 1996 KH125(dead and sold)

[melons79]

Ok i think i have found the oil mixer, it also has an orange tube on it that has been cut could this possibley be what connects then to the oil bottle and bobs ya uncle?

[serlant]

Ideally, better check it works as they might have disconnected it for a reason .
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04 CBR1000RR, 1995 Husqvarna TE410, 1998 VTR1000(Sold), 1990 XJ600(sold), 1996 KH125(dead and sold)

[melons79]

Oh bugger thats a good point, how on earth would i test to see if its working? (sorry this is my first project)

[Pete.]

I tested one the other day by removing the pump and spinning it with my battery drill.

It should have two pipes to it - a larger feed pipe and a smaller delivery pipe, both should be clear tubing. On the pump should be a small bleed screw. Open the bleed screw and attach the feed pipe to the oil bottle (or use a syringe filled with 2-stroke oil) and let the pipe fill until clear oil with no bubbles is flowing from the bleed. Now the pump is primed.
Spin the pump with a battery drill (I actually found it easier to attach the gear to my drill and slot that on the pump spindle) and use your drill to spin the pump. If it tries to pump oil back up the large pipe you're turning it backwards. Watch the level of oil in the pipe and you should notice it slowly pumping.
On the pump should be a quadrant for the cable to connect to. It delivers more oil as the throttle is opened (and it will have alignment marks on it for setting up). Turning this quadrant by hand should make the oil pump faster.

These pumps are very reliable in use, since they are used for pumping lubricating oil. Often the reason bikes are switched to pre-mix is because the oil has been allowed to run out and the pump has not been primed afterwards, causing them to try to pump air and the resulting loss of lubrication causes cylinder damage is blamed on a 'faulty pump' that merely needed bleeding. The problem is, if it has been used on premix for extended times, the pump might have been spinning away for a good time with no oil in it, so it's condition is now suspect. You'll have to judge for yourself whether it works adequately or not when it's re-connected. I suggest splitting the pump and inspecting/measuring the internals.
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a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good