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honda cg speedo lights

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finpos
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PostPosted: 18:55 - 24 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Blowing a fuse means you have a dead short so unconnected cables won't be the problem.

Take all the bulbs out of the holders and plug into the loom. Fuse should not blow. Replace the bulbs one at a time - if the fuse blows, chuck the last bulb you replaced in the bin.

f.
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Scotsman37
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PostPosted: 18:59 - 24 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

You don't have the repair manual which shows the wiring diagram for your bike, as that will show you where the wire should be connected!
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 19:18 - 24 Feb 2011    Post subject: Re: honda cg speedo lights Reply with quote

I would ignore those extra 3 and find out whats wrong with the multiplug.. but dont leave them dangling there uninsulated. connect them one at a time to see what lights up. It is only lamps on that plug - so you cant break it with 12v..

My diagram shows brown as the meter bulb, black is + for neutral indicator, but theres no yellow.

For some reson, green is negative, and BLACK, of all colours, is +. When you have multicoloured wiring, this is extremely retarded - even more so when striped green is used as the brake light +signal.
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Scotsman37
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PostPosted: 18:07 - 25 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Use a multi meter's probes and check for continuity and verify which wire is coming from to the headlight/ignition/dash because you may have wired/connected up something wrongly within the connector block where it shouldn't be as according to the wiring diagram!

Do the corresponding coloured wires match up at the connector blocks from the wiring loom onto headlight/ignition/dash wiring?
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finpos
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PostPosted: 19:55 - 25 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, that's certainly very odd.

Next thing to do is to disconnect the dash then find out how many of the pins on the bike side of the loom have +12V on them with a meter or a test bulb.

Once you've done that, use the meter to check the resistance to ground of the matching pins on the dash side. one of them will be a dead short.

Then figure out why!

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0l0dom0l0
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PostPosted: 17:57 - 26 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Which one isn't connected?

For a fuel gauge you will have, the live at 12v from battery, volts from the fuel sender in the tank, and an earth. If you haven't got the earth connected, then that might be the problem. To test which is which, with the ignition on the 12v should read 12v, duh, the fuel sender anything between maybe 5v and 12? not sure?

If your 12v isn't connected, it shouldn't in theory cause a problem unless its shorting on the frame or something (which it might be)

The one from the fuel sender is also likely to cause a problem if shorting on the frame.

The sender one you can connect directly to 0V but, the 12v from the battery you can't as your effectively connecting the 12v side of the battery to the 0v side without any resistance.

I think that's right. Any one feel free to correct me if I am wrong!
____________________
CBT Passed: 30/08/2009, Theory Passed: 31/08/2010, Mod 1 Passed: 6/9/2010, Mod 2 Passed: 13/09/2010. Restriction ended 13/09/2012.

Bikes: 2007 Derbi GPR 50, 1998 Yamaha Fazer 600 (written off), 2002 Yamaha Fazer 600, 1994 CBR 600F, 2003 Triumph Daytona 600, Kawasaki ZX6R J1.....Current: 2006 Yamaha FZ6, 1998 Suzuki TL1000R and a Honda VFR 400 NC30.
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0l0dom0l0
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PostPosted: 18:17 - 26 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okay, from the diagram, the wire labelled w/y going from the gauge to the fuel sender carries 12v. The sender then has a different resistance depending on how much fuel you have in the tank. This then changes the voltage at the gauge, which then moves accordingly. Does your tank have the sender unit?

The G is obviously OV.

BI is the live feed straight from the battery.
____________________
CBT Passed: 30/08/2009, Theory Passed: 31/08/2010, Mod 1 Passed: 6/9/2010, Mod 2 Passed: 13/09/2010. Restriction ended 13/09/2012.

Bikes: 2007 Derbi GPR 50, 1998 Yamaha Fazer 600 (written off), 2002 Yamaha Fazer 600, 1994 CBR 600F, 2003 Triumph Daytona 600, Kawasaki ZX6R J1.....Current: 2006 Yamaha FZ6, 1998 Suzuki TL1000R and a Honda VFR 400 NC30.
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0l0dom0l0
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PostPosted: 18:32 - 26 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Right I think I know why its shorting. If you are connecting them together, then the 12v feed from bi in the diagram is taking the easiest route to 0v which is through a wire, so a short. Its taking out all the fuses because its coming off the same line as everything else. Bi is also the 12v feed to all the dash lights.

You need to find out which wire is this 12v. It wont be the black as the diagram says black earth, but try it anyways. Just turn on the ignition with none of them connected so it doesn't blow all the fuses and get your multi meter. measure all 3 just to check I'm not talking out my arse!

You then have your live and 2 others. One is the ground, one goes to the fuel sender. You can ignore the one to the fuel sender. Find the one that goes directly to 0v and you need to wire a resistor from the 12v feed to the OV.

You will have one wire left (the one that goes to the sender). Just tape over that as its not floating (carrying any voltage). You should be good to go then.
____________________
CBT Passed: 30/08/2009, Theory Passed: 31/08/2010, Mod 1 Passed: 6/9/2010, Mod 2 Passed: 13/09/2010. Restriction ended 13/09/2012.

Bikes: 2007 Derbi GPR 50, 1998 Yamaha Fazer 600 (written off), 2002 Yamaha Fazer 600, 1994 CBR 600F, 2003 Triumph Daytona 600, Kawasaki ZX6R J1.....Current: 2006 Yamaha FZ6, 1998 Suzuki TL1000R and a Honda VFR 400 NC30.
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0l0dom0l0
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PostPosted: 20:58 - 26 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm out atm. I need to do some sums to work it out the resistance value. See if you can find out the rough resistance when warm of a 5w bulb.

Ideally to test it you could just wire in another bulb in the gap. Around a 5w bulb will be good.
____________________
CBT Passed: 30/08/2009, Theory Passed: 31/08/2010, Mod 1 Passed: 6/9/2010, Mod 2 Passed: 13/09/2010. Restriction ended 13/09/2012.

Bikes: 2007 Derbi GPR 50, 1998 Yamaha Fazer 600 (written off), 2002 Yamaha Fazer 600, 1994 CBR 600F, 2003 Triumph Daytona 600, Kawasaki ZX6R J1.....Current: 2006 Yamaha FZ6, 1998 Suzuki TL1000R and a Honda VFR 400 NC30.
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 22:09 - 26 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

LMAO.

Bi? thats BL, as in BLACK, meaning the wire is BLACK. BLLLLLLLLLLLLLACCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCKKKKKKKKKKK

And its 12v. read my last post.


what part of the OP did I not read? really, You didnt even say the age, and I know you have an old bike from your other posts, new engine, old bike..

Either way, as an ex-electrickery student, these bikes are all the same. Newer ones have nothing particually difficult or groundbraking - nothing you would need an updated diagram for.



important bit, is not to connect, unknown, random, unused wires together. Insulate them, not with tape, unless its temporary, as it wont last. Heatshrink is best, and very cheap if bought from the right place (rapidelectronics).


Do this, connect the lights back up, and try starting the bike. Is it fixed? As I said, for your bike, the dash is *just* lights, so its 12v or ground (but not all ground inside the dash).
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0l0dom0l0
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PostPosted: 00:01 - 27 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

kramdra wrote:
LMAO.

Bi? thats BL, as in BLACK, meaning the wire is BLACK. BLLLLLLLLLLLLLACCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCKKKKKKKKKKK

And its 12v. read my last post.


what part of the OP did I not read? really, You didnt even say the age, and I know you have an old bike from your other posts, new engine, old bike..

Either way, as an ex-electrickery student, these bikes are all the same. Newer ones have nothing particually difficult or groundbraking - nothing you would need an updated diagram for.



important bit, is not to connect, unknown, random, unused wires together. Insulate them, not with tape, unless its temporary, as it wont last. Heatshrink is best, and very cheap if bought from the right place (rapidelectronics).


Do this, connect the lights back up, and try starting the bike. Is it fixed? As I said, for your bike, the dash is *just* lights, so its 12v or ground (but not all ground inside the dash).


Mate seriously.

I can't read the writing very well as its so small. The black if it says BL will be the live in that case, very sorry about that.

Also, I don't think you have understood the diagram correctly. The live feed, when rob connects the wires up is being shorted as its connected directly to 0v. Thats why its blowing all the fuses.

The whole of the dash will work correctly when its not connected apart from the lights which is the problem. Its right on the end of the electrical circuit.

There needs to be a resistance (where the fuel sender would usually be) as its just hanging at the moment so there isn't a complete circuit through the lighting bit. I will highlight what I mean.

Look at the diagram carefully. You will see what I meen. Follow the grey ish wire towards the dash. Look at the 12v hanging.
____________________
CBT Passed: 30/08/2009, Theory Passed: 31/08/2010, Mod 1 Passed: 6/9/2010, Mod 2 Passed: 13/09/2010. Restriction ended 13/09/2012.

Bikes: 2007 Derbi GPR 50, 1998 Yamaha Fazer 600 (written off), 2002 Yamaha Fazer 600, 1994 CBR 600F, 2003 Triumph Daytona 600, Kawasaki ZX6R J1.....Current: 2006 Yamaha FZ6, 1998 Suzuki TL1000R and a Honda VFR 400 NC30.
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0l0dom0l0
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PostPosted: 00:11 - 27 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Where I have labelled 1, you will see all the bulbs come off the same feed. As the fuel sensor also comes off this feed, before the bulbs its causing a short.

No 2 on the diagram is the fuel sensor bit. You have the 3 wires going in, the black which is the live feed, the green which is the ground and the yellow which goes to the fuel sender.

No 3 is the fuel sender. As it doesn't exist and isn't providing a resistance when Rob connects the wires together its shorting as I keep saying.

Basically Rob, stick a 5w bulb between the black and green wires and test it. If the fuses don't go you just need to replace the bulb with a resistor or an equivalent value.

https://cdn.bikechatforums.com/files/untitled_935.png
____________________
CBT Passed: 30/08/2009, Theory Passed: 31/08/2010, Mod 1 Passed: 6/9/2010, Mod 2 Passed: 13/09/2010. Restriction ended 13/09/2012.

Bikes: 2007 Derbi GPR 50, 1998 Yamaha Fazer 600 (written off), 2002 Yamaha Fazer 600, 1994 CBR 600F, 2003 Triumph Daytona 600, Kawasaki ZX6R J1.....Current: 2006 Yamaha FZ6, 1998 Suzuki TL1000R and a Honda VFR 400 NC30.
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 00:46 - 27 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

no problem. Took me a while when I first opened up my CG, these bikes are designed backwards.. the best thing you could do is strip the wiring, and start fresh with chocky block and a spool of 16awg wire..

Its worth it, on an old bike, to run a new earth wire from front to back, connected to the chasis at several points, and to the engine, and to the main grounds on the loom. I havent done this yet on mine tho...


But, does elecy leak out the plug socket and flood your home, when nothings plugged in? Smile

Blue, orange, red-white, brown, are all the lamps. Green is ground, black is +. Yellow is the fuel sender, signal wire. Its just a VR going to ground, if you had one... insulate it - and the spare green and black.


Some bulbs ground elsewhere. the telltale, being a stupid crossover between each half !!! and the neutral indicator grounding at gearbox, that makes measuring more fun..
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0l0dom0l0
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PostPosted: 16:26 - 01 Mar 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Wirewound-5-Watt-4R7-Resistor-5W-Pack-5-/300405639483?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item45f192493b#ht_1633wt_905

They should do it I think. Not sure though. Its difficult because I don't know how much tolerance I can play with. Try it. They are rated to 5w so shouldn't over heat.

Test them like you have with the 5w bulb. If they get f***ing hot and catch on fire, then you'll need a bigger one. If not, your good to go!
____________________
CBT Passed: 30/08/2009, Theory Passed: 31/08/2010, Mod 1 Passed: 6/9/2010, Mod 2 Passed: 13/09/2010. Restriction ended 13/09/2012.

Bikes: 2007 Derbi GPR 50, 1998 Yamaha Fazer 600 (written off), 2002 Yamaha Fazer 600, 1994 CBR 600F, 2003 Triumph Daytona 600, Kawasaki ZX6R J1.....Current: 2006 Yamaha FZ6, 1998 Suzuki TL1000R and a Honda VFR 400 NC30.
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0l0dom0l0
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PostPosted: 16:40 - 01 Mar 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Was it a standard 5w5 sidelight bulb?
____________________
CBT Passed: 30/08/2009, Theory Passed: 31/08/2010, Mod 1 Passed: 6/9/2010, Mod 2 Passed: 13/09/2010. Restriction ended 13/09/2012.

Bikes: 2007 Derbi GPR 50, 1998 Yamaha Fazer 600 (written off), 2002 Yamaha Fazer 600, 1994 CBR 600F, 2003 Triumph Daytona 600, Kawasaki ZX6R J1.....Current: 2006 Yamaha FZ6, 1998 Suzuki TL1000R and a Honda VFR 400 NC30.
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