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| demon9374 |
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demon9374
Spanner Monkey
Joined: 01 May 2011
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 Posted: 20:43 - 01 May 2011  Post subject: Aprilia RS 125 Problem - Require Help Please |
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CBT - Check (got my certificate today) 
Insurance, MOT, Tax - Check
Bike running fine - Our survey says.. EH URRRGH
It's W reg, so year 2000.
Got home, insured it after getting my CBT Certificate. It's already MOT'd & Taxed and was shown it running before I bought it, I've probably had 2 good runs on it last week to check everything was in order, but things have just gone down hill.
So I get out on it now I'm legal. Sit on it with choke on for a while, warms up, ticks over fine without choke at around 1500 rpm, get into first (clutch gave no bite, but I've adjusted that, now I do get a biting point, but the clutch lever is a little flimsy/wobbly with the adjuster nuts screwed in).
I set off, go down a steepish hill as I live in a silly place & the only way out of my estate. Get to the bottom, turn, head up road about 60ft then the revs just drop and the bike just stutters, no amount of revving does anything, just drops & stalls, great I'm on a slight slant of a hill, get it started, it'll just go to about 2k rpm, stick choke on and start it, it'll get revs up fine sometimes, but sometimes it'll just drop & cut again.
I really dunno how to properly explain it, but yeah, once the bike shows it's first stutter & cuts out, it will not set off again as I can't get the revs up.
Then sometimes I can start it, I'm like *yay its revving yaaay*, change into first gear, try and set off & stutter, stall. /annoyed face.
Then I'll start pushing it up a nice steep hill, I get knackered, try and give it one more go, oh look it's started & revving fine. Get back on the bike, just about to get ready to set off, stutter, stall. /super annoyed face.
I think the bike is teasing me on purpose. I sometimes don't cover her up at night you see. 
To recap, by when I use the term stutter, I mean, I open up the throttle, but it won't rev, in fact it does the opposite, rpm goes down & respectively cuts out.
I don't really know anyone to look at it, only 2 people, one is on holiday the other is someone the gf's dad knows & will probably be christmas by the time he remembers to ask the guy..
If anyone is in the Northwest (I'm in Stalybridge) that could have a look at it if no one could diagnose the problem, as it is abit hard over the net without being here, then I would be super greatful & probably give you something for your time & some more if you can actually fix it.
/mega annoyed face, because it's yet again another bank holiday tomorrow, I've got 3 hours of work, with a cycle journey now then have to rush back to get to my other job & will have to buy yet another weekly bus pass.
I hate buses.
And sorry for any swearing in this post, but I have spent quite abit of money & I just want to get out & enjoy being a new motorcyclist. So you can understand my frustration lol |
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| N cee thirty |
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N cee thirty
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| demon9374 |
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demon9374
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| Posted: 21:13 - 01 May 2011 Post subject: |
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Yeah, but I still get the same revving problem, but I can't exactly leave choke on & ride, it's one of those on the RS that spring to the off position, the choke is on the left side of the bars.
Thing is, the other night going out on it, I warmed it up with choke, ticked over fine, go to the bottom of the steep hill, turned round & came back up, 3/4 the way I got that rev problem, stall, had to push it home with the desire to drop kick the annoying kids that don't take a motorcyclist serious & have to run about in the road asking questions.. It's like they never seen one before, or automatically associate it with some tosser ragging about. Which is not the case, I'm just trying to get the damn thing running fine, I'd hate to get far on it & then it starts doing this as 1) work, late 2) nice push back home.
My mate who knows nothing on bikes says, start it up and rev it to the max to blast shit out the carb.. lmao.. No.
I really need a weekend, a printer, print off the manual & strip it, airbox is clean as a whistle as I checked that on Friday. Carb, I haven't brought myself to take apart yet, I would feel more comfy with a manual in hand to do it, rather than run upstairs & look at computer then run back down.
Could also do with privacy in the garden when working on the bike, kids really do get on my tats. It's like the spanish inquisition.. |
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| N cee thirty |
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N cee thirty
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| demon9374 |
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demon9374
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| Posted: 21:22 - 01 May 2011 Post subject: |
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Yeah it starts up again straight after.
Sometimes it wants choke, sometimes it doesn't, either of these times mentioned, it will either rev fine, upto to like 8k, don't want to push it, and other times it will rev to around 4k then just go "buh buh buh 3k, buh buh buh 2k, buh buh buh 1k, buh buh buh cut out"
tbh, once I got past 4k revs, it will happily keep revving at 5-7k for a few moments, but all of a sudden it will just drop and drop and no amount of revving will push the revs back up, it will and does drop & cut out. |
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| N cee thirty |
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N cee thirty
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| P. |
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P.
Red Rocket
Joined: 14 Feb 2008
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| Posted: 21:41 - 01 May 2011 Post subject: |
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Pull the spark plug out. Have a look at the state of it.
Im guessing it will be blacker than anything 
Pop a new one in, fill up with nice new fuel and start her up. If its sorted then knock the choke off and ride gently until its about 50-60 degrees on the temp gauge.
Give her some beans.
My RS killed 3 plugs using the choke, got it running great.. then a relay went
Unsure what year yours is, mine was 2000, had 2 pipes heading to nowhere. I had to re run them as it was dying randomly, worked fine after |
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| demon9374 |
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demon9374
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demon9374
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| Posted: 21:43 - 01 May 2011 Post subject: |
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| ##Paddy## wrote: | Pull the spark plug out. Have a look at the state of it.
Im guessing it will be blacker than anything
Pop a new one in, fill up with nice new fuel and start her up. If its sorted then knock the choke off and ride gently until its about 50-60 degrees on the temp gauge.
Give her some beans.
My RS killed 3 plugs using the choke, got it running great.. then a relay went |
So happens I have a new plug to try. However, I wouldn't of thought the spark plug would have anything to do with the throttle/rev problem, or am I terribly wrong in thinking the spark is just for getting the bike to start & it does soo much more? |
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P.
Red Rocket
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| demon9374 |
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demon9374
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| demon9374 |
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demon9374
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| Posted: 21:57 - 01 May 2011 Post subject: |
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P.
Red Rocket
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| Posted: 21:58 - 01 May 2011 Post subject: |
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Replace the plug regardless and dont leave it on choke, just ride gently after starting it  See if it works...also, check fuel tap is ON or RES |
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| steven_191 |
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steven_191
Nearly there...
Joined: 31 May 2009
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| Posted: 22:00 - 01 May 2011 Post subject: |
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| demon9374 wrote: | | ##Paddy## wrote: | Pull the spark plug out. Have a look at the state of it.
Im guessing it will be blacker than anything
Pop a new one in, fill up with nice new fuel and start her up. If its sorted then knock the choke off and ride gently until its about 50-60 degrees on the temp gauge.
Give her some beans.
My RS killed 3 plugs using the choke, got it running great.. then a relay went |
So happens I have a new plug to try. However, I wouldn't of thought the spark plug would have anything to do with the throttle/rev problem, or am I terribly wrong in thinking the spark is just for getting the bike to start & it does soo much more? |
lol without the spark there is no ignition. no ignition means no running. that also means you get the annoyed face again.
on a 2stroke the plug is more important because they get though them much much quicker. the difference between, using the chocke and not using the choke, running in the powerband or not in the powerband, lots of throttle, little throttle. these all affect the life and condition of the plug. what also affect the plug even more though is wheather or not the carb is set up right and in fact if the engine is in good condition.
your best bet is, new fuel and plug. see how that goes.
if not, get the manual and the carb off and clean it out and make sure you have the correct jets. set the mixture screw to what the manual says. this will more than likely need a fine tune when running the bike. (add a new sparked plug again at this time.
if your still having trouble then, check the compression and the spark timing.
the problem your describing sounds to me like a) running out of fuel, check your fuel line isnt kinked and slowing down the fuel supply and/or strip the carb to check this fuel feed and jets are clean, b) the problem i had which is unlikely. the powervalve broke in half and felt exactly the same as loosing the fuel supply, c) something else |
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| Kickstart |
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Kickstart
The Oracle
Joined: 04 Feb 2002
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| Posted: 22:18 - 01 May 2011 Post subject: |
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Hi
Another vote for a new plug and minimising the use of the choke. 10EG is for the full power bike, 8EG for the restricted bike.
However also check the breathers (if they are blocked as fuel is used there is a vacuum in the fuel tank which prevents fuel leaving the tank) and fuel filters (including the one in the carb). Also check for any water in the fuel / carb.
All the best
Keith
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Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing |
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| demon9374 |
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demon9374
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| Posted: 22:24 - 01 May 2011 Post subject: |
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| steven_191 wrote: | the problem your describing sounds to me like a) running out of fuel, check your fuel line isnt kinked and slowing down the fuel supply and/or strip the carb to check this fuel feed and jets are clean, b) the problem i had which is unlikely. the powervalve broke in half and felt exactly the same as loosing the fuel supply, c) something else |
I thought this earlier whilst I had the bike out, about the fuel line, but it's not kinked, so I'm going to guess it's carb end. Not going to look forward to taking it out & putting it back, but I have no choice by the looks of things.
Will I be ok for using the BR8ES? I can't really try it, it's abit late now, although I am taxed & insured etc, but neighbours can be right twats. It's fitted anyhow ready for tomorrow. Don't get back from work till about 7pm
Will also take the tank cover off and check them breathers. |
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P.
Red Rocket
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| Blau Zedong |
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Blau Zedong
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demon9374
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| prawny1 |
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prawny1
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| demon9374 |
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demon9374
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| Posted: 20:19 - 02 May 2011 Post subject: |
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| prawny1 wrote: | Try draining your carb you could have water in it.
The fact that the bike is cutting out if gear could be the clutch or sidestand switches cuttingthe spark off,
Another point to note is that these two stroke bikes need the revs up to pull off cleanly because they have little low rpm torque and a poorly adjusted/dragging clutch will cause stalling issues. |
Next door seems to think it's the clutch.
I took the carb out, it was spotless, put it all back. Took a while for it to turn over, to get the fuel etc into the carb again.
But it needs choke all the time to start, both plugs, yes the fouled one too, have sparks, finally tested this properly today.
Anyhow, it's pissing me off, should of gone T&F & torched the fucker and got a sensible bike.
Anyways, back to the clutch, screw adjusters closer to the lever, I get a decent bite, roughly 1/3 way out, but the bike jolts forward when put into first. Screw the adjusters out, I hardly get any bite, too far and no bite ofc, so yeah.. I find a good biting point, but 1st gear makes the bike jolt forward abit.
Still having the won't rev, regardless if they're to be ragged the shit out of to have a clean start, when slowing down them revs are going to have to lower, gets to 4k and doesn't rev back up, it just dies. Seems to like revving fine in the garden, then I'll get it on the road and it will start it's hissy fit. |
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| Kickstart |
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Kickstart
The Oracle
Joined: 04 Feb 2002
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| Posted: 20:29 - 02 May 2011 Post subject: |
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Hi
Clutch won't affect it running or not in neutral.
It is needs the choke on all the time then it sounds like it is running very lean. Possibly a blocked breather, blocked fuel filter, kinked fuel hose, blocked jet or similar.
As to the clutch, the adjuster on the lever just changes the free play in the cable. Doesn't affect the actual clutch adjustment. The real clutch adjuster is in the middle of the clutch cover on the l/h side of the engine. There is a cover in the middle of that clutch cover. Remove that and you will find a small adjuster screw and a lock nut. From memory, slacken off the cable adjuster, then slacken the lock nut off, slacken the adjuster in the middle of the clutch then tighten it until you feel resistance, undo it a tiny bit and then tighten the lock nut.
All the best
Keith
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P.
Red Rocket
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| demon9374 |
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demon9374
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| Posted: 20:52 - 02 May 2011 Post subject: |
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| ##Paddy## wrote: | I'd definitely have it fire and theft regardless... Easy to nick is an understatement.
Well, get the choke to start it and keep blipping the throttle and turn the choke off, maybe your idle speed is excessively low? |
The compulsary excess was £650, so I deemed it worthless in the event of theft as the bike cost £700, so I may as well pay for another bike should it get stolen on TPO.. I've got an alarm to fit yet, but as my bike is wank, I can't wire up the immobiliser part, it's kept in the hallway at home & it's only being used to get to & from work with the occasional sunny days out riding. My TPO is £40 a month, can ride other bikes, breakdown cover & pointless overseas riding.
I don't know how to adjust the idle speed, the nob on the right is for mixture isn't it? It's fully turned in, then turned out abit, dunno how to describe by how much.
When it is warmed up it seems or used to idle fine, but I can't test it atm, it just wants to die in the low rpm, which is odd if it used to be fine & ive not touched anything idle wise, only thing I've touched is the one on the right of the carb, wherever I turn it, the bike is still doing the same thing rev wise.
I'm guessing the idle screw is the one I noticed actually hidden in the carb, accessed through the bottom when you take the plastic cover off, then again, it looked like there was 2 or 3 screws there.
| Kickstart wrote: | Hi
Clutch won't affect it running or not in neutral.
It is needs the choke on all the time then it sounds like it is running very lean. Possibly a blocked breather, blocked fuel filter, kinked fuel hose, blocked jet or similar.
As to the clutch, the adjuster on the lever just changes the free play in the cable. Doesn't affect the actual clutch adjustment. The real clutch adjuster is in the middle of the clutch cover on the l/h side of the engine. There is a cover in the middle of that clutch cover. Remove that and you will find a small adjuster screw and a lock nut. From memory, slacken off the cable adjuster, then slacken the lock nut off, slacken the adjuster in the middle of the clutch then tighten it until you feel resistance, undo it a tiny bit and then tighten the lock nut.
All the best
Keith |
Thanks Keith, will give the actual adjuster a go after work tomorrow.
I checked all the breathers this evening & they're all free from blockage & aren't kinked.
The carb was spotless, feel fed up after wasting 4 hours on it lol
For example, if I remember this 100% from tonights testing. Got it on the road, choke, start, blip revs, choke off, then kept blipping revs between 5-6k rpm, selected first, kept the revs roughly the same easing out the clutch set off, slow down for the u-turn to come back up the car park, slowing down meant going under 5k, although I've just realised my fuck up whilst typing this, I'm in 1st, SLIP THE CLUTCH AND KEEP REVS UP, fuck me, forgot what he told me at the CBT already. Anyhow, yeah, as you guess rpm dropped, then doesn't attempt to go back up the more I rev the quicker it drops and dies.
Really wish I'd of gone for a Honda CBR 125 now. But saying that, I wouldn't feel happy with it, as I think they're fugly. That's the price I pay for looks lol |
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| pits |
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pits
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| Posted: 20:53 - 02 May 2011 Post subject: |
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Ah mine did that, took 2 weeks worth of dyno runs, new carb and new jets to make it work properly.
One thing that I would check is to drain the oil out of the tank and check the filter, in the oil tank, mine was blocked and was the potential cause of all the problems, and why we had to set it up to run rich, sadly I only found this out after it blew up.
New plug, and check it is getting a decent amount of oil into the engine, and it will probably want a set up now on the carb, either way I would personally get it running and sell it on, then spend your money getting a big bike, RS125s are awesome, but the money I spent on mine wasn't worth it, and you can easily do your bike test and get something just as quick, maybe less fun though. |
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 14 years, 119 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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