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| GREENI3 |
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 GREENI3 World Chat Champion
Joined: 26 Nov 2010 Karma :  
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 Posted: 19:26 - 09 Feb 2011 Post subject: The basics of gears... |
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I'm a noob when it comes to gears, but thats why I'm asking
I want to know the basics of gears, so that when I get a 125, I won't end up looking like too much of an incompetent fool.
Now I know HOW to change gear, but it's the small things that puzzle me a bit
Like how fast should you let the clutch out on specific gears?, what to do when you're parking?, getting out of neutral to first? e.t.c.
Cheers and sorry if this has been posted before. |
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 ... Brolly Dolly
Joined: 12 Oct 2009 Karma :     
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 Posted: 21:00 - 09 Feb 2011 Post subject: |
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It will depend on the bike and your riding style.
I just pull the clutch lever in as quick as possible, change up, then let it out about half as slowly as I pulled it in, not forgetting to roll off the throttle before pulling in the clutch and rolling it on again as the clutch is released.
Don't take this as how you should shift gears. I am possibly quite wrong.
In all likelihood you'll pick it up just fine by yourself.  |
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| Livefast123 |
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 Livefast123 Nearly there...
Joined: 14 Mar 2010 Karma :   
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 Posted: 21:11 - 09 Feb 2011 Post subject: |
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We could all express an opinion on how we change gear etc but you'll find that you pick it up all by yourself when you start riding. It's like riding, everyone has a different style.
When you let the clutch out, it stalls and you drop the bike then you'll know it's too fast  ____________________ Current ride - Yamaha MT-07 |
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| Ditto |
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 Ditto Nearly there...

Joined: 26 Sep 2009 Karma :  
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 Posted: 21:44 - 09 Feb 2011 Post subject: |
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You'll pick it up...basically is the easiest way of saying it.
Do you drive? Its the same as that but using your hand.
When you put it into first from neutral you pull the clutch in like you would expect and then there will likely be an almighty clunk as it drops in.
From first to second is the only gear which needs a bit of added force so you don't get neutral. At first you will be putting it into neutral all the time and revving the nuts off the engine but again...the feel will come with time and before you know it you will know how much force is needed to get it into neutral from first or second. I often go from second into neutral when coming up to a stop.
Driving around slowly takes time, but basically you will keep the revs up at about 1500 and then control the speed by slipping the clutch.
 ____________________ CG 125 > Bandit 600 > CBR 600 FY > Street Triple R |
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| Howling TerrorOutOfOffice |
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 Howling TerrorOutOfOffice Super Spammer

Joined: 05 Dec 2008 Karma :    
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| pinkyfloyd |
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 pinkyfloyd Super Spammer

Joined: 20 Jul 2010 Karma :   
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| GREENI3 |
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 GREENI3 World Chat Champion
Joined: 26 Nov 2010 Karma :  
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 Posted: 22:05 - 09 Feb 2011 Post subject: |
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| Howling Terror wrote: | Are you the one who rated me as Abusive in the umpteenth 'Do you Nod?' thread? I said Nod-Off and gave you the finger.
Anyway...i'm not one to harbor a grudge. So i'll give you the benefit of my years and years of riding experience and the millions of gear changes i have made.
The clutch is not a toy. It is a tool and should be...the technical name is 'dumped' at every chosen speed.
Sometimes a pee....just last week i parked up to get a litre of milk (semi)
I'm always here for advice  | You cease to amaze me with your FANTASTIC advice  |
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| Poseidon |
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 Poseidon World Chat Champion

Joined: 15 Aug 2008 Karma :   
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 Posted: 22:27 - 09 Feb 2011 Post subject: |
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When I had my first driving lesson, although I could use the clutch and change gears, I was too sharp on the clutch, resulting in gear changes being accompanied by a jolt of the whole car (and its passengers). The advice my driving instructor gave me was fantastic and has stuck with me for the last ten years, making my gear changes silky smooth.
Firstly imagine the travel of the clutch is numbered from one to ten in equal graduations. Find the number of the biting point... for example, in my car it's fairly high, so about 7. My bike it's quite close in, so about 3ish.
When you pull the clutch in, do it firmly and swiftly, letting out the throttle as you do so.
Select your new gear
Release the clutch swiftly to just below the biting point (imagine 6 in my car, 2 on my bike). Then, without actually halting the movement of the clutch, slow the travel of the clutch down and feed back in with the throttle (basically easing it gently past the biting point). Once clear of the biting point release the clutch fully and continue as normal.
Unfortunately, explaining this process makes it sound like it's a 45minute procedure for each change, but in reality it should only take a second or two i.e:
0-seconds clutch fully in, throttle closed
0.5 seconds new gear selected
0.2seconds clutch released to just below biting point
0.5-1.5 seconds, clutch moved passed biting point and engine revs brought up to match gear speed
0.1 second clutch fully released.
Obviously you wont win many drag races with this technique, but it will ensure a smooth and comfortable ride. Think of the whole process as a smooth flowing system.
I should also add that this only works for changing up gears or down using engine braking (with little or no throttle involved). If you're down changing whilst braking then you might want to continue with the braking during the gear change rather than using the throttle... But the clutch movement should remain the same. ____________________ 1977 Honda CG125
2002 Ducati Monster S4 (currently restoring) |
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| Poseidon |
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 Poseidon World Chat Champion

Joined: 15 Aug 2008 Karma :   
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| Asharin |
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 Asharin World Chat Champion

Joined: 05 Oct 2008 Karma :  
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 Posted: 23:37 - 09 Feb 2011 Post subject: |
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| Howling Terror wrote: | Are you the one who rated me as Abusive in the umpteenth 'Do you Nod?' thread? I said Nod-Off and gave you the finger.
Anyway...i'm not one to harbor a grudge. So i'll give you the benefit of my years and years of riding experience and the millions of gear changes i have made.
| Quote: | Like how fast should you let the clutch out on specific gears? | The clutch is not a toy. It is a tool and should be...the technical name is 'dumped' at every chosen speed.
| Quote: | what to do when you're parking?, | Sometimes a pee....just last week i parked up to get a litre of milk (semi)
I'm always here for advice  |
I want to rate this as funny, alas I can give no more Karma today so I'll have to pretend... |
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| tahrey |
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 tahrey World Chat Champion
Joined: 07 Jul 2010 Karma :   
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 Posted: 16:40 - 11 Feb 2011 Post subject: |
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| Howling Terror wrote: | * stuff * |
LISTEN TO THIS MAN.
(Q. to HT: Did you get that semi you were trying for?)
Ahem. Otherwise, I'm with Ditto:
| Quote: | You'll pick it up... |
Though really I'd recommend going to get your CBT and doing it with a geared bike, they'll get you to the point of being able to safely move off, change gear, manoeuvre and stop, and then check you're OK on the road before passing you. At least, if they're any kind of reputable...
It's good that you're curious about this stuff though. Don't worry. I was in a similar kind of "how do you do that, really? what if I make a complete cock-up of it, particularly having been driving cars for 10 years?" state beforehand, and it actually came fairly easy once the first few stalls were figured out. Just ease into it and you'll find a decent rhythm - there's as much art involved as there is science.
Just like in a car, most of the time it's moving off you need to bother about, between-gear changes are typically quite simple as is coming to a halt. Be smooth and reasonably gentle, but as quick as you can manage without causing a jolt, and be a little slower/more gradual on downshifts. Some bikes don't actually need any clutch at all when you're rattling up (NOT down though!) through the higher gears so long as you dip the throttle a bit (sequential box!) but I wouldn't want to say which...
(are you a driver already, by the way, or is this going to be your first powered road vehicle?)
It's the fast getaways from a standing start that were my downfall til I'd been going a while, and I'm still not always that good (small bike, big rider ). Be nice if THAT was something they taught. But that's what happens if you desire to be superman from day one.
Gear choice can be as important a lot of the time. Knowing (...feeling?) where to shift up, when you need to shift down, getting just the right gear to power out of a tight corner, and just how high you can go for efficient, laid back cruising round town (or along the seafront) before it starts to judder and shake apart. That will also come, to some quicker than others...
(*horrified memories of a friend's attempts at overtaking on a french holiday in a 1-litre Nova ... without shifting out of 5th...*)
Oh and watch yer braking distances and mind that engine braking can be deceptively powerful even on a small bike because of the comparitively low gearing! It can be useful for control (basically a built-in antilock system) but don't overdo it. |
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| GREENI3 |
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 GREENI3 World Chat Champion
Joined: 26 Nov 2010 Karma :  
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 Posted: 16:54 - 11 Feb 2011 Post subject: |
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Thanks for the advice tahrey.
I would do my cbt on a geared bike, but I've already done it on a 50cc ped last month. Hopefully won't have to do my cbt again, if I can get full license next year.
Gears do seem like a daunting prospect to me tbh.
Looking to get a ybr/cg when I'm 17 and practising in a car park for a bit. Should get the hang of it, but too soon to say at the moment. |
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| Paulington |
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 Paulington World Chat Champion

Joined: 11 Mar 2009 Karma :   
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 Posted: 22:55 - 11 Feb 2011 Post subject: |
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Don't fret about it, you are worrying about something that requires no worrying at all.
In fact, just by making this thread and asking us and yourself those questions you are overthinking the very aspect of getting to grips with a geared motorcycle.
Chill out, now you are on a 50cc concentrate on your riding discipline, positioning, forward planning and observations. Cross the bridge of gears when you come to it, and not a minute sooner!
When you get your 125, I'm sure you know someone that will give you a hand in a quiet car park/industrial estate to help you get the hang of it. The truth is 10 minutes in a car park with a person is worth 20 pages of forum thread giving you 500 different ways and opinions on doing it.
Gears are a very simple thing and will become second nature within a day of riding, I first drove a geared car when I was 9 before I started racing Minis and have never worried about gear changing, bike or car since. It's exactly the same as riding a bicycle! Do it for a day and you are sorted for life.
If you are still uncomfortable/not sure after you have gotten your 125, then book a second CBT with your own motorcycle (£100 or so) and they will teach you exactly what to do and how to do it properly, it will also give you a lot more confidence learning it with fully trained instructors and letting them observe you as you get used to it.
I hope that helps. . ____________________ "Four wheels move the body, two wheels move the soul."
Current Vehicles: '89 Kawasaki KDX200, '99 Yamaha XV535, '00 Honda ST1100 Pan-European, '08 Suzuki GSX-R1000, '08 Mitsubishi Lancer GS4 2.0 TDCi, '15 BMW 1 Series 116d Sport Turbo.
CBT: 27/08/08. Theory: 04/09/09. Module 1: 16/09/09. Module 2: 01/10/09. |
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| tahrey |
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 tahrey World Chat Champion
Joined: 07 Jul 2010 Karma :   
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 Posted: 11:57 - 18 Feb 2011 Post subject: |
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Hmm i suppose if you're only 16 that does limit the options a bit for now! Do they even allow manual-shift 'peds for under-17s any more, if you can find one? (There are a lot of countries that say they must be automatic-only, so manufacturers probably don't bother making anything else)
Best I could say is borrow a mates geared bike - if you know anyone with one - for some careful off-public-road practice. At least you've got the basics of staying upright and riding in traffic down thus far, so you don't have to worry about getting all of it right all at once like some of us did!
That and look into some further tuition once you pass 17; at least CBT, but while you're at it you may as well head for a proper license and shred the L-plates. You can't do DAS at this point, but you can at least go for either a 125-restricted license (which does free you up for motorways and passengers) if you're feeling parsimonious, or better a 33hp one (lots of choice!) which you'll automatically graduate from after 2 years. Go with a reputable training centre and they'll sort you out for gears and clutch nicely.
And heck, you probably haven't had much 4-wheel experience so it should be less confusing this way!
Don't fret it, like Paulington says, the fact you're asking is probably worrying too much ... but hey, at least you're not charging in assuming you'll be fantastic from day one, then ending up running smack into a metal gate like the guy in that youtube video because you leapt onto a 600cc before the clutch-in action had become properly ingrained in muscle memory. |
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| Rogerborg |
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 Rogerborg nimbA

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| Benson_JV |
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 Benson_JV World Chat Champion
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| tahrey |
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 tahrey World Chat Champion
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| iooi |
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 iooi Super Spammer

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| Howling TerrorOutOfOffice |
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| N cee thirty |
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 N cee thirty Banned

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| Howling TerrorOutOfOffice |
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 Howling TerrorOutOfOffice Super Spammer

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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 14 years, 310 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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