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Camchain rattle on SV650

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huskie69
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PostPosted: 10:07 - 01 Apr 2011    Post subject: Camchain rattle on SV650 Reply with quote

I recently bought my SV650 and the guy told me a little about cam-chains and the fact that they're rattly on the SV (before I bought it). I'd read a little about noisy SVs from reviews so didn't think it was anything to worry about.

The noise of the exhaust soon drowns out anything else anyway so I don't often notice it.

Anyway, I picked my bike up yesterday after having a new tyre fitted and the first thing the mechanic said to me was that I need new cam-chains.

'Uh oh... how much'
'Well, seeing as it's a V-twin and you have 2 of them, £400 (inc labour)'
'Oh bollocks'


So I mentioned I'd heard about cam-chain tensioners. He said they could be had for about £80 each and not that difficult to fit. However, another mechanic who was listening in said there was already cam-chain tensioners on the SV and they were automatic.

They first guy explained that the bike literally has to be pulled apart to fit the new chains which is why the cost is so high. As a complete mechtard, this is something I'd never attempt myself anyway.

The bike's done about 34K and not had the chains changed as far as I know. How often are these meant to be replaced and does the cost sound about right?

Also, is the cam-chain tensioner thing right? Are they already built into SVs and operate automatically?

Also, are cam-chains basically the bike equivalent of a cam-belt? If they go, have I knackered the engine?
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Damon
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PostPosted: 10:13 - 01 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

£400 sounds about right to me if that includes parts. It is quite labour intensive to fit cam chains. The sv will have a tensioner/s more than likely they will be automatic so self adjust. Alot of people fit manual tensioners however as they cant fail (unless you forget to adjust them).

And yep, the cam chain is like a cam belt on a car. If it goes/ slips the timing will be all wrong and you will bend valves or worse...
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 10:20 - 01 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Right

First off you need to check the cam chain tensioners are working.

If the cam chains go the top end of your engine is scrap.


34k seems a little soon for a cam chain to be loose, but I will never be Suprised but the poorness of the quality of parts used in budget Suzuki's.

The cam chain tensioners tension the cam chains (funny that). picture your drive chain, it should have a bit of slack to it, if you push with you finger on the under side of the chain upwards it will tighten it up, this is was the CCT does, it pushes into the chain to tighten it. Most on bikes these days are automatic. They are sprung loaded if the spring has gone this means it isn't doing it's job and the chain will rattle.

What you need to do is take the CCT out and make sure it still has spring in it, although this isn;t a full proof testing method it is the only one I would do. Some people suggest sticking the handle end of the screw driver in the CCT hole to put tension on the chain, I would never do this.


This isn't a case where you could replace either to fix the problem, depending on the state of your engine you will either need one or the other or both, you don't have a choice in what you need to replace.
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huskie69
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PostPosted: 10:28 - 01 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

chris-red wrote:
but I will never be Suprised but the poorness of the quality of parts used in budget Suzuki's.


Ssshh. Don't tell me that, I've only just gotten over the whole chinky bike=poor quality lesson!
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 10:46 - 01 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

The SV is built like a tank compared to a chinky bike, still I would replace you break pins with stainless ones before they seize,
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jimbothe
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PostPosted: 12:38 - 01 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
As a complete mechtard, this is something I'd never attempt myself anyway.




Congratulations, you just won the prize for the best word of the day.
Dance!

That is so going into my sig. Laughing

On the subject note, can you not modify the automatic tensioner on those to manual? I've heard this has been done before and extended the life.
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huskie69
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PostPosted: 14:24 - 01 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

So if the SV already has automatic CCTs installed as stock, why would I also need to think about get manual CCTs as well - surely the automatic ones aren't doing a good enough job, or the chains are too stretched?
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 15:18 - 01 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

huskie69 wrote:
So if the SV already has automatic CCTs installed as stock, why would I also need to think about get manual CCTs as well - surely the automatic ones aren't doing a good enough job, or the chains are too stretched?


Didn't read my post then...


Quote:
it pushes into the chain to tighten it. Most on bikes these days are automatic. They are sprung loaded if the spring has gone this means it isn't doing it's job and the chain will rattle.

What you need to do is take the CCT out and make sure it still has spring in it,


Or Damon's

Quote:
The sv will have a tensioner/s more than likely they will be automatic so self adjust. Alot of people fit manual tensioners however as they cant fail

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huskie69
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PostPosted: 15:59 - 01 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

chris-red wrote:
huskie69 wrote:
So if the SV already has automatic CCTs installed as stock, why would I also need to think about get manual CCTs as well - surely the automatic ones aren't doing a good enough job, or the chains are too stretched?


Didn't read my post then...


Quote:
it pushes into the chain to tighten it. Most on bikes these days are automatic. They are sprung loaded if the spring has gone this means it isn't doing it's job and the chain will rattle.

What you need to do is take the CCT out and make sure it still has spring in it,


Or Damon's

Quote:
The sv will have a tensioner/s more than likely they will be automatic so self adjust. Alot of people fit manual tensioners however as they cant fail


Ah, thanks Chris. Still getting my head around the technicalities and misread (glazed over on) some of those bits. Much clearer now. Wallet's gonna take a bit of hit in the next few weeks!
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MaybeGuy
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PostPosted: 17:22 - 01 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

right... firstly.

IGNORE THE MECHANIC. THEY ARE SCUM.

secondly, check the tensioners as mentioned. DO NOT LET THE MECHANIC DO WORK.

look it up and do it yourself. it's fucking easy to do tensioners and they're known fail points on suzukis as they approach that sort of mileage
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boundy
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PostPosted: 21:12 - 02 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had a mechanic tell me the same thing when I took the wifes SV in for an mot. I took both out, cleaned them and refitted them and it ran perfect after that.
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huskie69
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PostPosted: 22:23 - 02 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

boundy wrote:
I had a mechanic tell me the same thing when I took the wifes SV in for an mot. I took both out, cleaned them and refitted them and it ran perfect after that.


Boundy, when you say toy took both out, do you just mean the CCTs already fitted on the bike? If this is the case, and I manage to figure out how to do it, you may have saved me some grief! Thumbs Up
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0l0dom0l0
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PostPosted: 22:58 - 02 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is a diagram I prepared earlier:

https://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x474/0l0dom0l0/Camchain.jpg

Automatic tensioners are fitted as standard. As the cam chain stretches the tensioner pushes more and more on the valve guide (in black on the diagram) to tighten it again.

In short terms, don't start deciding a preparing yourself to do a full engine strip when you really don't need to.

Take out the tensioners and make sure they are working correctly. Disassemble them completely and clean and lube everything. If they aren't working get new ones.

Then put them back into the engine and gradually turn it over slowly using a socket on the crank and listen for the clicks. The CCT's will be taking up the slack in the chain.

Don't bother taking it to the mechanic that said it needs a new cam chain, asking him to do the work to the CCT's. Buy a haynes and do it yourself. If he's already told you that you need a new cam chain then he won't even bother trying to fix the tensioners and will just rip you off.
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hmmmnz
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PostPosted: 10:22 - 03 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

who the hell would do a full engine strip to replace cam chains,
it only requires the rocker cover to be removed,

despite popular beleif cam tensioner rarely fail, how ever they do fail to tension the chain on there own because the spring isn't strong enough
to push against the chain,


try this,
loosen the tensioner bolts slowly untill you hear a click, then re-tighten the tensioner bolts back up,
do it to both tensioners

if you don't hear a click then pull the tensioner completly out,
give it a clean, check the spring and reset the tensioner and put it back in,

once in and the tensioner has tigtened against the chain, loosen the bolts slowly again untill you hear said click, re-tighten

that'll hopefully sort you out
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dextersaurus
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PostPosted: 11:46 - 03 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Having to do this myself on the tt ^

What are these clicks you mention?

Dunc
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hmmmnz
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PostPosted: 11:52 - 03 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mr Dunkable wrote:
Having to do this myself on the tt ^

What are these clicks you mention?

Dunc


the clicks are the little ratchet mech on the tensionor, (tensionor can expand but not close up)

by loosening the bolts that hold the tensionor it allows it to open another
notch, and when you tighten every thing back up there is more tension on the chain,

tenionors are a fairly flawed design in that you have a pissing pen sized spring trying to push against a heavy chain and chain guide,
the chain has to be pretty loose for it to actually work
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HD
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PostPosted: 11:58 - 03 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mr Dunkable wrote:
Having to do this myself on the tt ^

What are these clicks you mention?

Dunc


The tensioners taking up the slack on the chain I imagine
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MaybeGuy
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PostPosted: 12:15 - 03 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

buy new tensioners.
bodging nackered ones is asking for trouble, especially if you're a complete noobile
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Blue_SV650S
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PostPosted: 13:38 - 03 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Getting to the CTTs on the SV is a right fag!!

I agree with others, your first step is to look at your existing CCTs though.

Get yourself a Haynes manual (or D/L one) it is all described in there.


p.s. the bloke who sold it to you saw you good an proper ... the SVs don't have a cam chain rattle as standard ... they are a 'mechanical' sounding engine though, but it is the sound of things whirring about, not the sound of rattling chains in a dungeon! Very Happy
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huskie69
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PostPosted: 14:57 - 04 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Blue_SV650S wrote:
p.s. the bloke who sold it to you saw you good an proper ... the SVs don't have a cam chain rattle as standard ... they are a 'mechanical' sounding engine though, but it is the sound of things whirring about, not the sound of rattling chains in a dungeon! Very Happy


Nah, he pre-warned me about the cam-chains. I naively didn't realise how important or potentially costly they could be though.

As for the Haynes manual - I may as well be reading a book on applied quantum mechanics, in Japanese.

The problem I've found with a lot of entries in the Haynes manual is that they assume the reader knows more than just the basics. The particular entry on the CCT requires a skill level of 3 spanners - this is 4 more than I have. It mentions things such as 'lugs' and 'cranks' and I don't know what either of these are.

It also worries me quite a bit as it says that once I've started removing the CCT, it has to come out completely or I could end up knackering the whole lot. Luckily, I have a bike tech mate who'll hopefully be able to hold my hand and make sure I don't make a complete mess of it all Smile
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Blue_SV650S
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PostPosted: 18:08 - 04 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

The CTTs have a 1-way ratchet type thing, if you partially pull it out, then bolt it back up, it will over tighten the chain as it has adjusted out a bit and the 1-way means it can't go back in.

There is a little screwdriver orafice in the back where you need to wind it back in, the you can let go and it will 'ping' back out into the correct adjustment position. To be fair, you need to do this on re-fit also!!

A competent friend stood there talking you though is the way forward for sure! Thumbs Up
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