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heehaw
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Frost
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Casper
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heehaw
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| Teflon-Mike |
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Teflon-Mike
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 Posted: 20:16 - 04 Apr 2011  Post subject: |
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1/ They are notorious for crap in the tank, sediment bowl, fuel line AND float bowls. Remove & Clean all.
2/ Sparks... if you have'm all to the good. Its a CDI ignition so not much you can mess with, but of battery not very lively, then you wont get a strong spark 'in the hole'. apart from, make sure the Coils are connected the right way round.......
3/ Compression. Often 'pump' through the plug hole, and can 'feel' like they have decent compression with your thumb over the hole or the plug in. BUT, bit of a bugger for loosing compression when the rings loose their edge, or when bores wear prematurely, as they are want to do, through lack of decent lube....
FIRST thing to do with a 'Benley' series engine, is always to wip the primary drive / clutch casing off, and get the oil strainer off the bottom of the oil pump pick up, and cleaned toot sweet. Refit with new gasket, not RTV or other 'Gloop' that can block teh strainer when it squeezes out! And chuck in fresh oil.
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My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?' |
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heehaw
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heehaw
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Teflon-Mike
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Posted: 19:18 - 05 Apr 2011  Post subject: |
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| niallB wrote: | | Teflon-Mike wrote: |
FIRST thing to do with a 'Benley' series engine, is always to wip the primary drive / clutch casing off, and get the oil strainer off the bottom of the oil pump pick up, and cleaned toot sweet. Refit with new gasket, not RTV or other 'Gloop' that can block teh strainer when it squeezes out! And chuck in fresh oil. |
Indeed that was the very first thing I did! |
Good Show!
Right, idle speed.
Barn find eh?
+ OK, tank off, find something to stand it on, like an old dining chair back, so its at or above frame height, and you can still plumb the fuel line in to run engine when needed. Extra length of fuel hose makes life easy here.
+ Do you have a pair of carb balencers (mention of mini engines makes me wonder if you are familiar with the task, & twin 1 1/2 Cooper's or did you run HIF6?) If so they may be handy.
+ The CB has twin carbs and single action throttle. As a barn find, I'd advice wipping off the throttle, and cable before you begin. Twist grip undoes with two screws, but is wired inside the headlamp if you want to remove completely.
+At the carb end, you have to unscrew the carb tops, lift the slides out, then unhook the cable from inside the slide, CARFULLY not o scratch slide or damage needle. Also be careful of the needle falling out when you remove tension off teh spring. Its held in with a little W clip, thats a bit of a swine.
+ Now you should be able remove the cable from the bike.
Half way up the cable is a 'splitter', little plastic tube, with a cap on, and if you open it, a plastic piston inside, with two cables on the bottom, one on the top. Undo, strip and clean.
Likewise twist grip.
Finally, lube the cables.
WHY? Well, if the cables or twist grip is 'sticky', and they are prone to it, then setting the carbs is a right nightmare, as the sliders in the throttle body wont be doing what its told, and can sit 'high' making the engine over rev, and then 'dropping' making it die, and the carbs go out of balence when it shakes itself free!
So, bit of precautionary maintenence on that lot, to begin with.
Now while you have the throttle tops off, have a look at the sliders and tdown the throttle bodies.
One side of slide is a guide groove, other is the throttle 'stop' ramp
Look down the body, and one side is a pin, that locates in the groove, other side is a ball end brass screw, which is the throttle 'stop' adjuster that sits on the ramp on teh slider.
Slider has cutaway on back of slide, that faces the air box.
On the Right hand Carb (facing with bike) you can get nice and easily at the idle screw. Left Hand carb its more awkward, the screw is between the two carbs and awkward to get at. You need a long thin blade electricians screwdriver.
Often people set the idle ONLY on the RH Carb, which is one of the reasons these bikes often only fire up on one pot.
Now, if you look at the inlet manifolds... carb is bolted to rubber stub, and that pushes over a metal one on the head.
If you look carefully at the metal manifold on the head, it has a small screw in it, which is the carb balence take off port.
There is one on each manifold, both point outwards.
Couple of last thing to look at, UNDER the front of the carb is the primary air mixture screw.
Books says from memory, all the way in, three and a half turns out, as the 'base' setting.
And lastly, at the back of the carb, are a pair of choke butterfly's, linked with a gawdawful metal spring clip.
BEFORE trying to set up these carbs you need to take the side panels and air box covers off, and have a look down the bores of the inlet, and make SURE that those choke flaps are staying 'OPEN' when the choke is off, and that the RH choke flap has no 'flutter' in it, ritchining the mixture up as it shakes about......
Or you will NEVER get these things running sweetly!
Two 'tricks' for you....
First is to use the end of a cable tie in the shaft of the LH Coke to tighten up the flex link to the RH choke shaft.
Second is to loop a bit of wire or a cable tie round teh frame tube between the carbs and attach an elastic band to that flex link to act as a possitive return spring and make sure they are held open when the choke is off.
NOW, you can start getting teh carbs set up!
First, before you drop the slides back in, book says that the needle should have the 'height' circlip one notch 'up' from middle. Theres five slots, so circlip should be in the second from top.
They are often put in the MIDDLE slot, lifting the needle, making the engine run rich.... becouse on 'most' bikes thats the 'normal' possition (& would be on a 'standard' world wide Super Dream, only the UK model is the 'Reduced effect' variant, de tuned curtacy of a different cam profile to Learner Legal 12.5bhp).
Wrestle with that little W clip to put the needle back in, then the spring and your nicely lubes cables to re-attach, and you can drop them in the holes, ready to begin setting up... remember, cutaway to the air box.
+ Now wind out the idle screws, and if you can see the throttle slides through the air boxes, great..... let them drop all the way down, then adjust the cables so that there is about 1/4" of 'slack' in the twist grip before they lift.
Also level them up so that the slides start to lift similteniousely as you twist the throttle..... looking down the throat of teh carbs, with your head in the air boxes..... an assistant working the throttle can be helpful.... especially if they are familiar with the process for using a kettle, and brewing hot beverages!
Without manomiters, that is as close as you can get really to 'balencing' the carbs...... but onwards
+ Mixture.... run engine up, let it get warm, choke off, then pull the plugs and check colour. As per the austin A series and all others..... adjust idle air screw to get good colour and nice even running note.
Easy enough to get close by ear, but of you have a 'sniffer' so much the better.
+ Once happy with the mixture, you can set the idle.
Lift slides with twist grip to something above idle, then on each carb wind IN the idle screw 1/4 or 1/2 turn at a time to set idle speed, letting the slides down onto the screws releasing the twist grip, & letting revs settle.
NEVER screw the throttle stop screws in on a 'slack' slide, it is as likely to bite into the ramp as it is to lift the slider.
(If your slider had lots of dints and dents in when you examined it, THAT is why..... can be 'dressed' with small file if bad enough)
Repeat until 'happy' idle is reached, should be between 1200 & 1400 rpm, but dont believe the tacho, it lies! Happy engine beat is what you are looking for, these will idle happily 'low' if carbs set nicely, but they do idle high naturally, and optimistic tacho anything under the "K mark, is probably good enough as long as it doesn't sound like its racing!
THEN using manometers, you can 'balence' the carbs, adjusting the 'pick up' on the throttle cable adjusters on top of each slider.
IF you have set the slides and slack on the cable, and if the engine's fairly healthy, they shouldn't need much tweeking, but does crisp them up a bit, for better throttle response.
and that's about IT, really!
____________________
My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?' |
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heehaw
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Teflon-Mike
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heehaw
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Teflon-Mike
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| Posted: 00:13 - 10 Apr 2011 Post subject: |
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| niallB wrote: | I was rewiring all the connections at the front today, too corroded and a few lights not working (high beam indicator and gauge illumination) and cleaning the cobwebs out the clock box that was holding the tachometer needle back. |
Vehicle Wiring Products.
Check thier webby.
They have 'Japanese' bullet connectors.
for years always cursed the fact that bikes have a slightly different guage of bullet to standard, on indicators and stuff, and ended up cutting and suing lucars or splices etc.
On Snowie's bike, when we pulled the headlamp oyt, some muppet had split all the insulation on the headlamp and indicator connectors, forcing bigger crimp on bullets into the female sockets opening them up, & the crimps FAR too large a guage for the wire they on, pilled out before the bullets..... so had to 're-do'.
So decided to 'Buy the Bullet' for once, and ordered a load of them off VWP.... order wit a few hole fillers by way of Lucars and some heat shrink and stuff came to £40, becouse they sell in fives or they sell in bags of fifty.... so I bought fifty of everything..... fifty males, fifty females, fifty male insulators, fifty female insulators etc, ech at about £4 a bag!
BUT, BOY has it made the job of sorting electrics on these easier!
Fitting the alarm for eg; when it came to tapping in teh feeds for the indicators, instead of sitting there trying to cut the wire and splice in another bit, all on the bike..... just doubled over the ends of the wires on the alarm, sat hapily on the dining table.....
Male bullet to plug into the bikes indicator socket, second wire out of it to take a female for the indicator to plug into..... Job Jobbed!
Have the speedo and tacho needles survived the clocks being opened? and have you cracked the inner fascia off to silicone in the glass where the rubber seal will undoubtedly have shrunk?
Have done that on Snowie's and mine so far. On mine added the alarm LED to the inner fascia, and a second LED to indicate the ignition imobiliesed, so they are under the glass and 'tamper proof', plus nice and visible.
____________________
My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?' |
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heehaw
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 15 years, 2 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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