Old diesel

[skatefreak]

Hey all,
just wondering if i could get you guys to have a look see @ these crs and let me know if i'm barking up the wrong tree....

Need a run around for the mises (10-15 minutes to work by car or 1:30 by bus!, all country lane/dual carridge ways and i'm going to start knocking up some methyl ester in a month or two), came across these.

They look okay to me, i have a mate who knows his diesels but though i would see what te collective BCF thinks?

Am i missing something? Are they ticking timebombs?

Which one looks like the best bet and why?
Will hopefully make some calls and go see some on sat/sun and make some calls to see about insurance

- Peugeot 306, 1999, 77k, £850

- Peugeot 306, 1998, 99k, £990

- Peugeot 306, 1999, 99k, £890

Any thoughts on these adds and or what to look for with a disdiselke this would be much appreciated.

Best regards

-Jvr

[tutton]

Nope 306 diesel dturbos are good motors, have one myself at the moment.

The engines themselfs are literally near bulletproof looked after engines have been known to go to 300k.

Things to watch out for is abuse of the fuelling and turbo, usually a dturbo has a lucas pump (some have boschs not many tho) check the pump at the front of the engine check if the rubber centre bung has screwdriver marks on it, also further down on right side of pump check to see if what looks to be a toothpaste lid is still there on the boost compensator. These are commonly tuned being manual injection not common rail, so with a little bit of fiddling with the wastegate arm and fuelling you can make them go pretty nippy for a diesel.

Other things to check with the 306s are bushes, peticularlly how it drives when they get to around 130k they feel a bit sloppy if theyve been driven hard and will need some new bushes, also check for camber of rear wheels whether they look to be pointing into the car, if so budget 150-300 for a new rear beam.

I paid 450 for mine and it was in good nick, and drove spot on when i got it.
____________________
Past: '05 Peugeot XPS '99 Aprillia RS125 '94 FZR600R
Current: '02 ZX636 A1P '51 CCM R30

[hmmmnz]

just make sure its the non direct injection (xud) model,

common rail diesels don't like running on hybrid fuels

they get all clogged up
____________________
the humans are dead
I kick arse for the lord
Wiring Diagrams BIDNIP it bitches

[Flip]

Bloody hell they've come down in price over the last 2 years.

I have a 306 Dturbo 2.0 HDI.

Do I like it? Yes.

Would I have another? Hmm.... doubtful.

[The Artist]

Mums got one, 208k atm and still works fine. Body is falling apart due to no maintenance for 5 years.

[skatefreak]

Awesome!
I'm going over to check out the yell'a one in the morning!
I have myself a list of things to check.
Hopefully all will be okay and the better half will have some transport

Here's my list of things to check as I'v not bought a car before so I've been trawling the internets for info about these cars:

- Inside:
o Central locking.
o Look for moisture on the floor at the back of the dash board
(heater matrix can be a problem too).
o Randomly switch on and off wipers/blower/lights/radio
/cigarette lighter, windows & mirrors (electrics can sometimes
be a erratic).
o Speedo sensors.
o Immobiliser

- Outside:
o Tyre and brake wear (higher than most cars).
o Check the rubber on all the windows fit flush and not
deteriorated as water can lead to electrics or/and rust.
o the usual bounce the corners for suspension return.

- Engine:
o Make sure the fans cut in when it gets to temperature
(common failure).
o rev the engine to 4000rpm and check the exhaust (black is
fine as it's just derv dust collected in the exhaust)
o Get a rag to cover the end of the exhaust to see any
leaks/check pressure.
o Check fluids are clear and topped up (oil, brake, power
steering, coolant).

- Test drive:
o Listen out for rear end knocking over bumps (rear bushes fail
(very common)).
o Juddering when braking from speed.
o Excessive Black smoke when under load or accelerating

- Rust:
o The lack of paint can leads to lots of rust (its French!).
o Check wheel arches & anywhere that has the potential to
hold water.
o Door sill's, bonnet and boot.
o Mounting points (bumpers/wing mirrors/engine).

Possibly a little exessive but will aim to check out everything on the list
Best regards

-Jvr

[Flip]

Make sure both key fobs work. You can't just change a battery on some models because you can't reprogramme then yourself. You'll have to replace the whole fob £££ (Google it).

There's a wire that breaks in the drivers door loom that's stops the central locking working and it's a ball ache to re-solder. I just lock mine with the key because I can't be arse to solder it again.

[skatefreak]

Hey there,
Well i went to see the middle one (£900, 99k, 1998 306).
Soooo... The car seems to be in good nick.
The good points/oobservations
- took an old mirror from the bike and there is no rust underneath,
- none in the wheel arches that i could see,
- ssuspensionis smooth and returns well,
- the hinges on the doors and boot are good,
- in car heater and dials work,
- lights, windows, wipers, water works aabsolutelyfine,
- when starting there isnt any smoke, reving dosnt show any black or blue smoke, strange noises etc,
- no strange knocks from the engine or gearbox accelerating/driving,

Issues:
- quiet nnoisywhen started but quieter than expected one warmed up/driving (its a ddieseli guess).
- the AC needs to be re-charged (not sure i'd bother, never really hot enough here lol).
- indicator is a touch sticky (after cancling it carrys on clicking for a few moments...)
- handbrake light stays on with handbrake off.
- water light stays on although there is plenty of water in the system.
- rev counter ddoesn'tseem to work but apparently does after a while (googleage says 9/10 times its connectors/battery voltage).

My main concern is the car looks okay and i'm very tempted to go for it but these cars are known to be prone to electrical spooks. The issue with the rev counter doesnt concern me as much as the water light because in my mind this would be much closer electrically to engine sensors etc and could pose more of a concern if things were to go south in that area.

Any thoughts on these issues would be very much appreciated.

Best regards

-Jvr