Drum brakes :/

[kramdra]

bleh. I hate them. Both have fresh shoes fitted a couple months ago, about 1000 miles.

Front brake is tame enough to not allow stoppies of any sort. I suspect in an emergency it would be quite useless. I had too near accidents this week, with traffic stopping unexpectedly. Second time I *had* to go round the car, and was safe to do so.

Rear brake is why Im posting. After a long ride, and one emergency stop *where it was quite effective* its now quite useless.
There is a rubbing noise when its on, and through the pedal it feels like it might be oval.. :O

I adjusted it yesterday, but it was sucking 10-15mph out of the bike, although more effective when used. I had to adjust it back becuase the bike was struggling for 60mph in 4th going steeply downhill!


Any ideas? I think this sounds like its contaminated with oil, so Im going to take it apart.

Note I done 400 miles this week, and another 400 to go before wednesday :p I will ofcourse have a look and try to fix it first, and if I cant, might find some other way there.


thanks

[dlatch]

what bike?

i would be wanting to have the rear wheel off and having a quick check the shoes are seated correctly and there is no lip on the drum its self (if there is a lip where its worn rub it down with rough sand paper)
remember the front drum brake on my old CG being almost useless i used to give even milk floats plenty of braking room.
disc brake conversion time maybe? from a later model

[kramdra]

[Teflon-Mike]

[Walloper]

Waoh!! Short post Tefers mate..

Drum brakes need to be clean (As all brakes do) Make sure ther eis no grease or dust on the braking surfaces.

Make sure the drum is not so worn that the effect of the cam is lost.
Measure the drum inside diameter there is a maximum wear limit.
____________________
W-ireless A-rtificial L-ifeform L-imited to O-bservation P-eacekeeping and E-fficient R-epair

[N cee thirty]

did my rear drum a few weeks back on my 19 year old cg

greased everything that should be greased,cleaned the drum and then toke a few times to adjust it correctly

locks up now ;D
____________________
'00 Aprilia RS50 > '92 Honda CG > '99 Yamaha Fazer > '91 Yamaha RXS > '79 Suzuki X5 > 01' Honda Cg > 07' Honda Cg > 82' Kawasaki Z200 > suzuki gsxr 400 gk73a > honda vfr 400 NC30 Mod 2 Passed 09/06/2011

Jewlio Iglesias wrote: I actually did vote BNP once

[Teflon-Mike]

[N cee thirty]

[von1papen]

One of the shoe springs might of came out, happened with mine as a pair of new rear shoes didn't fit correctly (had to file one of the lugs)

It means the shoe sticks against the walls of the drum hence why you're loosing so much speed also the drum will be roasting hot within a mile of riding.

[kramdra]

I noticed the front shoes looked glazed, so I scraped them off with a blade, and it helped a lot. but maybe I adjusted them better....

The rear shoes not glazed but scraping the surface off the material seemed VERY hard - ie the blade wouldnt touch it, where it was quite effective cleaning the front.
So Im wondering if they are cooked or contaminated. Other than that they looked fine - still almost new. I wiped off all the dust.



Ill check it over again, any ideas? Ill find some string and measure bore. & try adjusting it tighter.


thanks

[N cee thirty]

:S i don't know why your scraping them off with a knife when its like £5 for a new pair

for adjustng tighten it all the way until the wheel can't move freely,then back it off untill it turns free
____________________
'00 Aprilia RS50 > '92 Honda CG > '99 Yamaha Fazer > '91 Yamaha RXS > '79 Suzuki X5 > 01' Honda Cg > 07' Honda Cg > 82' Kawasaki Z200 > suzuki gsxr 400 gk73a > honda vfr 400 NC30 Mod 2 Passed 09/06/2011

Jewlio Iglesias wrote: I actually did vote BNP once

[neil.]

I'd personally use some wet and dry paper to remove glaze on the shoes and crud/corrosion inside the drum, also spraying liberally with brake cleaner and wiping out/dry with kitchen towel until it's all clean in there. Also regrease everything - copper grease on the cam where it pushes the shoes apart and the pivot pin oposite and moly grease on the cam shaft where it passes through the plate and rotates - they have a tendancy to seize there. This needs doing every so often on my YBR's rear drum brake to keep it tip-top and I still very much prefer working on the rear drum brake than the hydraulic disc brake on the front.

[kramdra]

well ive done a couple of hundred miles now. Im confident the front brake along will pass the emergency stop part of the test, as long as they cant visibly tell


Tef, Ive done a LOT on this bike, its not in maintence overdraft at all. Sure it has a couple annoyances.

There is no proper way you could fix rear hubs. Maybe get them cut out on a lathe and a steel liner installed? (why they chose aluminuim !!!?) else its replace the wheels. Either way, thats going to be expensive, and its probably cheaper to sell it as parts, and get another.


Purely out of interest, are stoppies allowed on the test? Im assuming it would be of the more controlled variety.

[c_dug]

Are you shitting me? Of course you can't stoppy on your test.
____________________
I am a bellend, I am a man of constant sorrow, I am a gummy bear, I am a rock.

[c_dug]

I lost my third gold blobby because of that post.
____________________
I am a bellend, I am a man of constant sorrow, I am a gummy bear, I am a rock.