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is this too much work

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Darthspence
Borekit Bruiser



Joined: 05 Apr 2011
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PostPosted: 11:05 - 07 May 2011    Post subject: is this too much work Reply with quote

hey just looking at bikes of ebay seen a suzuki gs 500 ey but its needs work done to it for an mot it needs
fork seals
tyres
and a replacment rear shock is this a serious job???
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crowe
Trackday Trickster



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PostPosted: 11:23 - 07 May 2011    Post subject: Re: is this too much work Reply with quote

Darthspence wrote:
hey just looking at bikes of ebay seen a suzuki gs 500 ey but its needs work done to it for an mot it needs
fork seals
tyres
and a replacment rear shock is this a serious job???


My friend changed the fork seals on his gs500 and for him it was a long awkward procedure. Personally, i'd pop to your local garage and just ask how much it might cost.
My friend was bikeless for a few weeks getting it sorted and i'd rather 'fork out' a bit extra for a mechanic than lose valuable riding time Mr. Green
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pinkyfloyd
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PostPosted: 11:23 - 07 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Depends on the price to be honest. Shocks are pretty expensive but you can pick them up second hand on Ebay. Fork seals are cheap but to change them you need to dismantle the whole front end of the bike. Tyres for a 500 can be a bit pricey.

Your best bet is buy one thats working and MOT'd because the money you spend on it getting it though the MOT might be more than a ready to ride bike costs.
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nowhere.elysium
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PostPosted: 11:28 - 07 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Replacement shock and fork seals are easy enough to do, but the fork seals are fiddly, and tend to be classed under 'arseache' in my mental job catalogue.
Tyres, there are ways of doing them yourself without the right gear, but for the sake of a tenner, get someone with the right kit to do it.
Shock - that's a piece of cake, presuming you've got a centre stand, of course. If it's been removed, then it becomes more of a pain to do.
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 11:41 - 07 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Say about £150 for the tyres.
£10 for the seals, £10 for new oil, + an hour's labour (more for you to DIY it).
The shock runs anything from £25 for a salvage one to £100 for a new stock unit to £280 Exclamation for a Hagon, plus another hour's labour, maybe half an hour if you get lucky.

Rough ballpark for a garage fix would be £270 parts + £100 labour, but get an estimate from your local grease monkeys. Do the work yourself and use a salvage shock and you could save quite a bit.

Is that the list of fails from an actual MOT, or the owner's estimate? It's a significant part of the value of a 2000 GS500, so don't over-bid on it.
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Last edited by Rogerborg on 20:31 - 07 May 2011; edited 1 time in total
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nowhere.elysium
The Pork Lord



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PostPosted: 11:54 - 07 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Care to link to the ebay ad? It'd be easier to estimate the work needed.
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Darthspence
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PostPosted: 11:55 - 07 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

well the bike is sittin at about £250 just now so how much would be to much for a bike need this much work done ???
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Darthspence
Borekit Bruiser



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PostPosted: 12:00 - 07 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

heres the link

https://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320693759118&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_500wt_1156
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nowhere.elysium
The Pork Lord



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PostPosted: 12:03 - 07 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Depends on whether you've got a really convincing reason to not go for a more expensive, but tidier 600, really.

Tyres are the most expensive bit, so they can probably be ignored anyway, given that they're a general consumable.
You'll be getting a ~50hp parallel twin at the end of this: do you reckon it's worth the work/expense? More to the point, will you be doing it yourself, or sending it to a garage? If you're DIYing it, then sure - if you can source a decent shock on the cheap, then go for it. If it's going to a garage, then it'd come up as costing more than I'd be willing to put into a cheap GS found on t'bay.

Edit - having looked at the ad, I'd say avoid, unless you're willing to factor in future exhaust repairs. The 7th photo looks like he's used a spray can to cover up some significant rust. There's a fair bit of surface rust on the pillion peg hangers too, and why have the downpipes been sprayed silver?
It's redeemable, but if you're asking how much work it is to sort fork seals and shocks, then you're probably not going to be up for the amount of work to get that looking tidy again.
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f1fan111
Renault 5 Driver



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PostPosted: 12:08 - 07 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it needs new fork seals i would want to see what the fork Stanchions are like.
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Darthspence
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PostPosted: 12:11 - 07 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

im not sure this is more just research for me just checking price and whts a good buy and not, whts worth buying to fix ect, this one just grab me as its was near buy and the price. My partners dads an old bike and is a dab had a working on bike and my old man has a good size garage im sure he would be happy to let me and him to fix up in there for a wee shot after words lol (also a old biker but my ma stopped him doin it after her ex died in acciedent)
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nowhere.elysium
The Pork Lord



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PostPosted: 12:14 - 07 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Darthspence wrote:
im not sure this is more just research for me just checking price and whts a good buy and not, whts worth buying to fix ect, this one just grab me as its was near buy and the price. My partners dads an old bike and is a dab had a working on bike and my old man has a good size garage im sure he would be happy to let me and him to fix up in there for a wee shot after words lol (also a old biker but my ma stopped him doin it after her ex died in acciedent)


If he's a biker of old, with a well-supplied garage, and technical know-how, then you'll get infinitely more respect from him if you got a real GS500: voilá.
None of this modern I2 crap, get one of the old oil-cooled monsters of yore. More work, but infinitely more awesome, and probably cheaper to insure, too.
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Darthspence
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PostPosted: 12:28 - 07 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

tht is nice and is just the kinda machine we both drool over lol
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nowhere.elysium
The Pork Lord



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PostPosted: 12:37 - 07 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Darthspence wrote:
tht is nice and is just the kinda machine we both drool over lol

I have the 650 version in my garage, awaiting the final push of effort to get it roadworthy. If you're coming to the BBQ, you'll see it there.

The one I linked to looked sound enough; cosmetic work is definitely needed, and the fluids will need to be flushed, along with brake lines and tyres needing renewal. Similar expense (unless there's serious rust in the seat pan, like I had with mine), more work, infinitely cooler/more fun bike.

The right fork leg was slightly pitted, but it was further up the length of it than you're likely to regularly use, so the araldyte filler trick may work ok. Failing that, you'll probably be able to find a similar fork tube on ebay fairly cheaply.
Carb cleaning's just a matter of being methodical. Also, don't make my mistake: check the jet settings when you put them back together - I didn't bother, and now I've got to re-set it, before re-fitting it to my bike. Not major, just irritating.

Valve clearances will take a bit longer than a twin, but it's only an 8-valve, so it's not that much arseache. The power's around the same as the modern GS500, but it'll be a lot smoother, and harder to kill overall, since it's an understressed GS550 lump that's been sleeved down by 50cc's.
In the majority, parts for the GS series from this era are still available, and I'd imagine that much of it is interchangeable between the 550 and the 500.

Be aware: this bike is going to be more work, but the payoff is better, IMO. Classic insurance makes it worthwhile, too: you'll potentially save hundreds each year, which'll help offset consumable costs.
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Darthspence
Borekit Bruiser



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PostPosted: 13:28 - 07 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

wht bbq lol??? sounds good just thinking about the time i would need to invest as i have a 1yr girl and a another wee'n on the way lol
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nowhere.elysium
The Pork Lord



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PostPosted: 13:38 - 07 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Darthspence wrote:
wht bbq lol??? sounds good just thinking about the time i would need to invest as i have a 1yr girl and a another wee'n on the way lol


The BCF BBQ. Look in the UK National forum.
Having heard that you've got sprogs plural to think about, it's safe to say that this may be too time intensive. Still, going back to your bike purchasing needs: the modern I2 bikes are reliable, although from my limited experience of them (I really didn't get along with them myself), the CB500 and ER5 are preferable, in terms of build quality, and (to a lesser degree) reliability.
You should also probably think about broadening your search a little, too: bikes like the Bandit, Hornet, Fazer and Diversion are all commuter-flavoured middleweights, although they're I4 engined, which grants you more power and a smoother ride. They're all restrictable as well, if you're stuck with a 33hp license.
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John933
Crazy Courier



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PostPosted: 13:45 - 07 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you can do the work your self. £250/300 max.
It's 10 year old. And not s tricky dick bike. A plodder that will run and run.
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Darthspence
Borekit Bruiser



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PostPosted: 13:59 - 07 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

yeh im not keen on new stuff either lol, yeh like i said im just really do research on whts out there so when time does come i dont lose out
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Teflon-Mike
tl;dr



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PostPosted: 14:34 - 07 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Be Warned; 'Just Needs Fork Seals for Test', in bike speak, is like saying 'One Careful Lady Owner' to a second hand car salesman.
Ie: behind that small, cheap easy to fix problem, probably lurks a whole host of not so cheap, easy to fix problems!
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Darthspence
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PostPosted: 14:42 - 07 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

haha one lady owner is a classic, aye thts why ive stuck up this post just to see how second hand sales work in the bike world lol
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Rogerborg
nimbA



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PostPosted: 20:42 - 07 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's hard to tell without seeing it in the flesh. From those pictures, there looks to be a fair amount of tread on the tyres. You only need 1mm across 90% of the width of the tyre for an MOT. "Shock spring seized" is a peculiar description - I doubt it's been for an MOT, it's just Bloke Says stuff. It might not need that work doing, it might need more. For one thing, the battery is probably shagged.

20,000 miles isn't a lot, but the valve shims should have been checked every 4,000 miles. There's no mention of service history.

It's probably an honest bike, but those sprayed downpipes are a bit hmmmmm.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 22:01 - 07 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

That bike is clean & tidy - it's going to go for good money just based on the pics despite the work needed. No real bargain to be had IMO. If it needs tyres, battery, fork seals and MOT you need to add a couple of hundred quid to the finishing price which is going to push it over going market value.

Rear shock could be seized just from standing. A couple of good bounces on the seat would free it up. I had a VT250 like that.
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 22:28 - 07 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I brought a '90 GS500 for £200 from someone on here. Fork seals were changed, roughly 1 hours work, carbs balanced, valves done, and it was given a good clean and 12 months MOT.

I was hoping for £350 at best, it sold for over £500. Its not a good time to be buying.
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open
Trackday Trickster



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PostPosted: 11:47 - 08 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

...That has 4 days left on it with at least 8 people watching it.

That price will rocket up on the last day (probably even the last couple of hours)

Sorry, I'm used to buying on ebay. If no one had bidded then you might have a chance. You havent bidded yet and are watching it, so there will defo be more like you & most people dont bid till the last min anyway.

*EDIT*

Try the 'time ending soonest' option when looking at auctions. You dont have to wait 5 days to see what the price will be & have a chance of grabbing a bargin.
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