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Struggling with neutral

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stuartadair
Crazy Courier



Joined: 15 Oct 2009
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PostPosted: 20:46 - 28 Jun 2011    Post subject: Struggling with neutral Reply with quote

Hello all
Got a 2008 Skyjet 125-23 and am struggling with neutral.

All the gears work just fine and it rides really well but when I'm in first and go for 1/2 click up it falls into 2nd, and from 2nd 1/2 kick down and it falls into first.
Neutral is there but its a real hit and miss affair ?

Any advice ?

stu Very Happy
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stuartadair
Crazy Courier



Joined: 15 Oct 2009
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PostPosted: 20:52 - 28 Jun 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thats a good point. I doubt its ever had an oil change, the bloke I bought it off just never seemed the sort.

Can crap old oil affect how easy the gearbox works that much ?
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MickC
Spanner Monkey



Joined: 27 May 2011
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PostPosted: 22:53 - 28 Jun 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, on my old honda i have to change it every 1500 miles or else i start to get difficulty in changing gears.
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P.
Red Rocket



Joined: 14 Feb 2008
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PostPosted: 23:50 - 28 Jun 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check both the oil and actual chain.

My brothers CBR is a piece of shite with a slack chain... its a complete slag to change gears..

Also your lever, check its adjusted correctly.
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Teflon-Mike
tl;dr



Joined: 01 Jun 2010
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PostPosted: 06:36 - 29 Jun 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

MickC wrote:
Yes, on my old honda i have to change it every 1500 miles or else i start to get difficulty in changing gears.


Reccomended Oil Change interval on most honda's is 1,250miles... and its usually advised to do it every 1000, rather than push them out... especially on the little ones, older ones, and ones with hydraulic cam chain tensioners or tappets.... does that leave many?

YES oil changes effect gear changes... effects clutch operation too... as oil gets older, it gets stickier and the cogs, dogs and the clutch plates will tend to 'gum'.

Chain tension and the oft forgot item in the drive train, cush drive rubbers, also effect change quality, while clutch adjustment effects how much 'drag' there is on clutch plates, and hence load not taken off the box when dissengaged.

The gear linkage, if you have one, though is normally something that is sorely neglected..... 'rearset' or foreward set gear levers with rose-joint rods between the actual toe pedal and the lever on the selector shaft, take a LOT of force during changes, and get sloppy, making changes demand more toe movement, and less precise, so harder to 'feel' when it 'clicks' into gear. A situation made worse if riders 'ride' the lever, which many do, and Learners often do a LOT..... that's putting pressure on the pedal when not making changes, either simply resting foot on the pedal, or actually toing it ahead of making changes.

But Learner Legals, all suffer selection niggles; they are small low powered bikes, that demand a lot of gear changes to make them move... bigger bikes with more power and more flexible engines, dont usually demand as much cog swapping to make progress, unless they are really highly tuned narrow power band bikes, or hard worked city hacks..... and of course, getting to grips with gear changing is big part of learning to ride.... which is what you buy a 125 FOR, so on top of lots of changes to make them move, you also have to factor in, even MORE gear changing, practicing the gears, and PLENTY of them gear changes NOT being the smoothest, or the people making them, the most delicate with thier foot!

Change oil, adjust clutch, remove and grease change pedal & linkage, and when reffiotting, adjust to the most comfortable position, so you dont 'ride' it...... but where you also get full travel in both directions easiest.... pedals on links often 'drop' so first gets lower and lower with time, and if the links well worn, upchanges can tale more pedal movement than is possible or comfortable, after the 'slop' has been taken up!
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Rogerborg
nimbA



Joined: 26 Oct 2010
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PostPosted: 06:42 - 29 Jun 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Recommended oil change on 156/157FMI engines is 1000 km. That might be a bit extreme, but for the price of a litre of oil, it should be the first thing you try.

Does it do it more when it's hot or cold? My HN can be reluctant to get into neutral when it's toasty, and your air cooled engine is stuck behind a fairing.
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