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Honda H100 fork bovver..

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castleboy
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Joined: 03 Jul 2011
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PostPosted: 06:47 - 03 Jul 2011    Post subject: Honda H100 fork bovver.. Reply with quote

Morning all, I`m trying to get my son`s H100 fork tubes out for cleaning out and re-sealing, 20 yrs of grey gunge instead of oil.. the damper rod is spinning in the fork leg.. it cracked loose easily enough but now the thread-lock on the bolt won`t let it come undone. I`ve tried both putting the spring back in and using a length of dowel to hold it but both were no good.. does anyone know if the damper rod has got a hex in it, as I think it`s `make up a tool` time.. if it has got a hex, what size it is?
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Bezzer
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PostPosted: 10:06 - 03 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can't remember from when I did one years ago but I've still got the manual and that says use a dowel with a pointed end so it probably is a round hole not a hex. You usually get better results grinding the end of a metal rod to a "pyramid" shape if it is a round hole as that grips better, bit like the Suzuki fork tool I've got and probably used to do the Honda.

https://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss60/mickcbr1100/tools/ForkTool.jpg
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Bezzer
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PostPosted: 10:55 - 03 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ignore that , my memory is crap Very Happy
Just been through the junk pile in the shed and I've still got the damper rod, it's got a 10mm hex head hole in the end. Dunno why the manual doesn't mention it Rolling Eyes I can't remember using that, probably did my usual trick of taking the bolt out first before stripping them down at all.
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trisers
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Joined: 29 Jul 2009
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PostPosted: 22:46 - 03 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

No sadly, the damper rod doesn't have a shape for a tool to fit.

This is the top end of the damper rod in my H100A....

https://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y27/clivejameson/IMG_2829_1.jpg

I had exactly the same problem with mine...a wooden dowel that was small enough to fit down the tube wasn't man enough to grip it without snapping. In the end i found a steel bar long enough to reach and shaped the end to blunt point that would fit into the top of the damper tube. It still needed someone pressing down on the bar really hard while the assembly was held in a vice to stop the damper rod spinning while i undid the bolt!
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 23:01 - 03 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Take it down your local garage and get them to put the air impact wrench on the bolts. It usually clatters them out in seconds.
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Frost
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Joined: 26 May 2004
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PostPosted: 23:48 - 03 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can try shocking it loose, stick and allen key or ratchet with hex bit on it, make sure it's a GOOD fit, push it down into it so there's no chance of it jumping out and sharply tap it round with a hammer. The bolt should spin faster than the damper for an instant which can be enough to get it moving.

You can of course fuck stuff up hitting ratchets with a hammer, so use your own judgement. It's got me out the shit a few times though
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Bezzer
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PostPosted: 12:04 - 04 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

trisers wrote:
No sadly, the damper rod doesn't have a shape for a tool to fit.

This is the top end of the damper rod in my H100A....



Mine was an S and that's got a 10mm hex hole, there must be a difference in either models or later years Depends what the O.P's got could be either type.
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trisers
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Joined: 29 Jul 2009
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PostPosted: 18:20 - 04 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bezzer wrote:
trisers wrote:
No sadly, the damper rod doesn't have a shape for a tool to fit.

This is the top end of the damper rod in my H100A....



Mine was an S and that's got a 10mm hex hole, there must be a difference in either models or later years Depends what the O.P's got could be either type.


true, true
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