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Wynn's Engine Flush

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Willson
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PostPosted: 11:58 - 23 Apr 2011    Post subject: Wynn's Engine Flush Reply with quote

Hey dudes,

A good idea or no?

Every time I change the oil the new turns black pretty much straight away, and I had some emulsification and there's still a bit of it left around in places (doesn't seem to be on the increase).

I've heard that it shouldn't be used on bikes with wet clutches because it has friction reducers or something of the like?

Thanks in advance

Willson
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Raffles
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PostPosted: 12:10 - 23 Apr 2011    Post subject: Re: Wynn's Engine Flush Reply with quote

Willson wrote:
and I had some emulsification and there's still a bit of it left around in places (doesn't seem to be on the increase).

You need to identify where the water ingress is occuring and cure that rather than just ignoring it and hoping that it goes away.
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Willson
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PostPosted: 12:15 - 23 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've sorted that... The new seals for the valve cover bolts are pattern parts and worked a little loose before I filled the cooling system, so weren't sealing properly. And me with my wonderfully steady hand didn't spill a drop... Rolling Eyes . Silicone sealant sorted the loose seals though, and there doesn't seem to be any leakage between the two systems.

Any advice on the engine flush?

Thanks

Willson
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 12:23 - 23 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd just do another engine oil change.
The oil nowadays is designed to carry the combustion deposits so it leaves the engine clean.

Oil change is all it needs.
Leave the oil in for about 1000 miles and dump.
New filter too.

Always make sure the engine is warm before dropping the oil.
It will stir up any solids and will run out quicker.
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Willson
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PostPosted: 12:30 - 23 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've done that quite a few times now, plus the crap left behind from the emulsification problem won't shift.

As long as it won't stop anything working I should be alright?

Thanks

Willson
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 12:41 - 23 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

What caused the emulsification?

If you've been flushing it then the shit should be clearing by now.
Unless you still have the problem.
Emulsified oil is a besterd to shift especially once it becomes like butter. It will resist all attempts at remedy and only dissassembly solves it.
But if the initial cause is cured then over sufficient time/oil changes it will clear.


I don't see why you cannot use Wynns though if you want.

https://cgi.ebay.co.uk/WYNNS-ENGINE-FLUSH-425ML-PN51265-1ST-CLASS-POST-/370502054403?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM
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Willson
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PostPosted: 12:48 - 23 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I believe it was dodgy valve cover seals when I was filling the cooling system (As I inadvertently spill some coolant). I took the right hand crank case cover off and cleaned the shit out of it I could see with petrol and a rag. I know there's some more in the guts of the engine somewhere, just not sure where. So when I change the oil and run it some of it is dislodged and moves somewhere else... Weird thing is I don't get the mayonnaise like substance coming out of the sump plug, so I don't think there's much in there. Especially after I've just cleaned a load out.

Thanks

Willson
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 13:21 - 23 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd stop worryng about flushing the engine and start worrying about whether the oil strainer is clogged up with emulsion. Can you get at it to see if it needs cleaning. What bike is it?
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Willson
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PostPosted: 13:56 - 23 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kawasaki ER5, A3. Not sure where the oil strainer is...

Thanks

Willson
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 14:08 - 23 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's bolted to the bottom of the oil pump so you should be able to get at it by removing the sump.
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Willson
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PostPosted: 14:22 - 23 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers dude,

Can't get the oil sump off at the moment, exhaust is in the way and the bolts are a bit on the tight side and my spanner just slipped on them when I tried to remove them last (they're not rounded off though, just a crap spanner).
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ZRX61
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PostPosted: 14:56 - 23 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the oil is black, it's doing it's job.

Go ride the bike 100-200 miles, when ya stop take the oil filler cap off & wait for it to stop steaming...
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 19:22 - 23 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can't speak to your bike, but I used Wynn's engine flush on my GPZ 305 without any problems.

I wouldn't use it normally, but it was the first change on a bike with an unknown service history, and that's prone to oil starving, so I wanted to give it every chance to clear the oilways.
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Willson
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PostPosted: 09:04 - 24 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Same with this bike... unknown history apart from it was used for Mod 1 training, so the bottom has most likely been thrashed out of it.

I'll run the bike till it properly warms up (it's running too hot anyway, I went across Birmingham city centre yesterday and the engine temperature warning light came on), then drain the oil and hopefully get most of the emulsion that's left out of it. Might try that Wynn's stuff, see if it clears it out without me having to take the crank case cover off again to clear the sight glass.

Thanks

Willson
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iooi
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PostPosted: 09:19 - 24 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well unless you are going to put the flush through from the cam covers, on a bike its a waste of time.

Personally get some cheap supermarket oil, usualy around £5 for 4 ltr of 20/50 and run that for a few miles and then dump.
Change filter and some fresh oil and all should be well.

I would expect the last of the sludge to go over a good summer running.
Just change the oil before winter.
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Willson
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PostPosted: 09:40 - 24 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well this is a last ditch attempt at me hoping it's not a blown head gasket, so I'll give it all a go! I wouldn't mind but the gasket is brand bastard new! Laughing

Thanks

Willson
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Wafer_Thin_Ham
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PostPosted: 09:42 - 24 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

iooi wrote:


Personally get some cheap supermarket oil, usualy around £5 for 4 ltr of 20/50 and run that for a few miles and then dump.
Change filter and some fresh oil and all should be well.

I would expect the last of the sludge to go over a good summer running.
Just change the oil before winter.


This.

Personally buy some el cheapo oil. Run it for 100 miles or so, then drop it and change the filter. Not really too sure about this flusing agents myself.
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 10:08 - 24 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you think you have got most of the mayo/butter out then just let it be.

Run it for a while. 100 miles will not be much better for this symptom than twenty miles.

As suggested it will need some good usage.

You could also whip the cam cover off and clean that and the top end on the engine out. This is where most of the residuale gunge will hide. There is no 'direct' oil flow inside there and very little spash feed either so oil changes will not actually 'flush' much.
It may be that little bit of this shit are gradually contaminating the oil.

TO BE SURE it needs more of a strip down.
Two hours work.
Fit a new gasket under the cover too. The gasket is much cheaper than running after an oil leak once the tank and all is back on. Embarassed

And you'll check the valve clearance when you are under there and service the sparkplugs and the air filter. Wink

Then your bike will go like shite off a shovel.
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Willson
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PostPosted: 10:55 - 24 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've just done the top end Sad.

To get at that I need to drop the engine out... Krapasaki decided that it was a good idea to weld the frame up in such a way that you can't get the valve cover off without doing so.

The crankcase cover has ended up covered in mayo again, but it might just be what's left over. ...I hope it is anyway!

Thanks

Willson
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Dazbo666
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PostPosted: 11:04 - 24 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I remember working on the top end of the GPZ, and it was a really tight fit to work around the top rail of the frame....
I had skinned knuckles and lots of frustration a number of times working on it, but thankfully didn't have to drop the whole engine.
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 11:22 - 24 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think you have a head sealing problem of water pump seal leaking.
The mess should reduce with time.

But if you are still getting loads of crap in the sump then it may be a blown head gasket.

You can get the 'buttery' situation on engines that are consistently never run to 'operating temperature' (85-95 C). The water from the normal combustion of hydrocarbon fuel is never burned off so collects in the sump etc.

I hope you are not 'cotton-wool balling' your engine when you take the beast out for a run.

Hammer it/Kick it's cnut in.... from time to time. Embarassed
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Willson
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PostPosted: 13:34 - 24 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've been running it higher up the RPM range today, a few redline gearshifts and it's been alright. It looks like the emulsion level is decreasing (I think the water is evaporating from it). So I've took the oil filler cap off and I'm running it for five minutes to let all the steam escape. Hasn't been sluggish yet today, so I might just be lucky! Smile

Thanks

Willson

Edit: perhaps not. Refilled the cooling system and back to square one. But it looks more like bailey's now...
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 19:22 - 24 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Willson wrote:
I've been running it higher up the RPM range today, a few redline gearshifts and it's been alright. It looks like the emulsion level is decreasing (I think the water is evaporating from it). So I've took the oil filler cap off and I'm running it for five minutes to let all the steam escape. Hasn't been sluggish yet today, so I might just be lucky! Smile

Thanks

Willson

Edit: perhaps not. Refilled the cooling system and back to square one. But it looks more like bailey's now...



If it tastes like Bailey's you're onto a winner then.
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ZRX61
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PostPosted: 19:38 - 25 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Willson wrote:
To get at that I need to drop the engine out... Krapasaki decided that it was a good idea to weld the frame up in such a way that you can't get the valve cover off without doing so.


No they didn't....
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Willson
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PostPosted: 17:45 - 26 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

My bike begs to differ.

And I think I've found the problem: water pump seals look a bit fucked. I'ma change them and see what happens.

Thanks

Willson
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